ddiddle

I realize that most of the engines we're talking about on this thread are somewhat high performance, but what about, say, a totally stock 1984 307 Olds engine? It's still flat tappet, right? So would using manufacturer spec oil/weight with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP or ZDDPlus keep me from cam failure? This is just on a sedan, not any kind of high performance thing.

Thanks to the guys on the forum here, over the past couple weeks I got my AC/heat control operating properly...tore the dash apart, fixed the electrical problem and solved all the vacuum issues. Everything is now routed properly and the air is coming from where it should be.

Thanks for all your help guys - I got it sorted out tonight and working. Just needed the vacuum line pushed through the firewall and hooked up. In the spare parts that came with my car, I also found a water valve that I can install later. It's pretty cool to see all those little doors move with the flip of the switch...finally. Couldn't have done it without your help.

Thanks guys - I'm going to try to tackle this routing issue in the next day or two. Anyone know what happens if you don't have a check valve? I'd guess that all the vacuum just leaks out of the system and reservoir, so all the system doors, etc. just relax to their natural state?

Thanks guys. This is very helpful. Rod, yes, I've got that reservoir (the plastic one, like you have pictured), but there were no lines going in or out of it. It is just mounted there. Do you know how the routing works? Does the line go from the intake to the reservoir then from the reservoir to the check valve, then through the firewall to the control? Mark, on your intake then, do you have three vacuum lines - one going to the brake booster, a metal one to the transmission and a third feeding the AC system?

Thanks Mike - I've got this. What I'd like to know is if I should be able to hear or feel the vacuum in the black line, or is the amount that operates the mechanism not really able to be detected? I've never worked with this stuff before.

I repaired the broken/corroded main power feed to the AC system so the control unit and fan all work again. This is helpful since it's consistently 90 degrees these days.

In a previous thread, Rod, Jim, Mike and Mike posted a few climate control wiring and vacuum diagrams that inspired me to see if I could repair my heater/AC system, which has not worked since I've owned the car. Today, I successfully found the break in the brown power feed wire between the fuse panel and the main AC system switch, and after repairing that and then installing a new relay, everything is working correctly, power wise. However, I don't think the vacuum is working properly. Everything seems to be attached correctly behind the dash, so I found the main (solid black) vacuum line and disconnected it where it splits there by the control. Should you be able to feel or hear any sucking sound through that line, or is the vacuum produced not enough to notice with your hand or finger? As it is, I don't feel or hear anything. Also, I'm assuming this solid black vacuum line exits passes through the firewall behind the engine block, then attaches to a metal tube that runs up behind the engine and attaches to the intake manifold?

Thanks Rich. You suppose it's "400" or "402"? I'm thinking they said 400.

I wondered about that. I don't know. The example I used of the language was an original window sticker from a small block car. Anyone with a 402 and your original window sticker, can you help out here?

Here's my attempt. As soon as I printed it out, I saw a couple things wrong with it, but I can fix those.

That would be a great thing to have. Thanks very much Robert! It's coming along!

Robert, how do you know all these? Is there a chart printed somewhere?

Thanks Robert, or, Ert. There are two more I need, if you've got 'em: AQ2 automatic seat back latch P90 g70 15 white stripe belted tires I'll post a pic when I get it done. It's looking pretty good. I went with Lucinda Console font in 10 point.

OK, I'm getting closer. I have the template lined up, sort of. I'm now looking for the costs of the following options in 1970, if anyone has these on their window stickers: C50 - rear window defroster D33 - remote control rearview mirror D34 - visor vanity mirror g80 - positraction axle n10 - dual exhaust syster n33 - comfortilt steering wheel v01 - heavy duty radiator zj7 - rally wheels Anyone know the costs of these?

Thanks Robert!

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm trying to re-create a window sticker without paying the $35.00 (I'm cheap, what can I say). I have a blank, thanks to Robert (Monte70car), but I'd like a couple to look at for font and option costs and all that. If you have a photo of yours that is easily accessible, could you post it? I'd really love one from a 402/400 car just to know the original option costs, but one from any car would help. Also, does anyone know the font that best replicates the window sticker font? Thanks!

It's a great feeling isn't it? Progress! Great job.

John, if I can do it, you can do it. It's pretty straightforward. Give it a shot, bud.

I'm just pulling into Tulsa now...where did you say that barn was?

That was an option, Bruce...and I seriously considered it, but in the end, I went ahead with the cam replacement. Got it back this week. We went with a slight bump up from an RV, a Comp Magnum 270H. Got everything cleaned and painted, new water pump and fuel pump and plugs and wires, cap and rotor, etc. The best guess is that it was a ZDDP issue. Buy the additive or the oil! You can buy a lot of oil for what this repair cost. I'm still running the Edelbrock 650, but am looking seriously at a quadrajet, as funds allow. Runs great, no noise. Lighter wallet. I also took a deep breath and cut a hole in my "new" dash to fit the rear defogger switch. Came out great.

Welcome to you! Glad you're here.

Hi Ben, As I understand it, the lower left corner of the trim tag will tell you. Mine is 05 B, which translates May - the 5th month, and "B" means the second week of that month. So, if yours is, say, "11 A," it would mean that your car was built during the first week of November.

Well, according to my mechanic, the tick is coming, not from the valvetrain per se, but from the fuel pump pushrod. Apparently it's just a bit too short caused, possibly, by a failed cam lobe or an incorrect cam installation. In trying a new pump and rod, the noise was worse due to the new rod being thinner than the old one and slapping around in there a bit. Anyway, it's all coming apart to check the cam and likely installing a little hotter cam. We'll also clean and paint everything and maybe get rid of the edelbrock and install a Q-jet, depending on what we find inside and how many of my children I have to sell to get it done. Man, I really admire you guys who can do all this stuff yourself. I can build a house, but I can't fix this lousy tick. I'll keep you posted, in case anyone's interested. On this nice day, take a drive for me while mine's all torn apart.

I vote jealousy. Maybe it was too warm under cover.