evman140

IIRC, I bought mine via phone direct from Eaton. Added the upper frame-coil isolator pad as well. Rides very nice.

I believe I bought a Wheel Vintiques rallye for my full-size spare and it was balanced without fuss.

All wheels are lug-centric. If the lugs were not radially spaced centric to the wheel, you would have a pretty awful wheel, let alone ride. I'm not sure if it was mentioned before, but I'll say it anyway (I skimmed pretty quickly). The hub opening needs to be perfrectly concentric to the wheel as the wheel balancer clamps the wheel onto a tapered shaft surface.

LOL ok, I'll go crack open a beer

Just found the details on this caliper BMR is selling. Its actually made by Aerospace Components. http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/4pistonprostreetcaliper.aspx Billet 6061 Aluminum Construction Grade 8 Hardware 4 Piston Vented Rotor Style Caliper 1 3/4 Diameter Pistons Internal Fluid Crossover Passages 1/8-27 NPT Inlet and Bleeder Screw Port 5 1/4" Mounting Hole Spacing 7" Overall Length Uses 6.63 Square Inch Pad 2.5 lbs Total Weight <---- Includes Bleeder Screw Assembly Fits Rotors .81" Thick 100% Made in U.S.A. Total piston surface area = 9.62in^2 !!! $165.95 ea. I'm getting really excited by this brake stuff

If you look at it in terms of a package, the BMR is actually quite competitive. If you add a pair of drilled/slotted rotors ($130 ea.) to your Wilwood caliper set, you are looking at approx $664 total (before tax). For an additional $46 you get a completely different animal that is far superior to the Wilwood setup. This is just my $0.02 and wanted to present the option as a whole. I'm looking forward to seeing whatever you move forward with!

While browsing BMR's website I discovered the BMR 4 piston option. That is a full billet alu caliper and two piece [steel] rotor package. This is significanly more expensive but if you really want to make a performance gain, this is what you need to get. Not only do you get caliper and rotor, but they also provide a billet alu hub! I wish they would publish the tech data on this. The weight reduction must be significant.

Didn't realize there was an option from Wilwood posted... They actually publish their numbers (saved me the work doing the math!) and they are competitive with the factory single piston surface area- Factory: 6.47in^2 Wilwood: 6.28in^2 SSBC: 4.49in^2 I think the Wilwood option is best; saves weight (also made from alu), maintains 97% piston surface area and looks better!

Most days I would not agree with this. However, between SSBC's offering posted above and stock, I think the most logical caliper to have the stock one. The SSBC's don't add much in terms of performance over stock - The pistons are still only on one side of the rotor and don't actually clamp the rotor from both sides. The clamping force will be altered as the mechanical advantage is reduced; the caliper piston area of the SSBC's is smaller than original. Regarding looks, even if you can see the rotor through your wheel package, the caliper pistons are on the back side of the rotor. However! There is one decent advantage to using the SSBC's. They will be lighter. Unsprung weight will be reduced if you decide to go for these.

I am happy to report that the problem has been solved! The culprit was an extra live wire attached to the solenoid. Which makes this a very curious case now because the car used to function this way approx 10 days ago! Now it seems the laws of physics do not apply to this Monte.... Anywho, the car is in transit to the interior man, only a couple days behind schedule. A big thanks to all of you guys!

Ok, ill wait. I have to call it quits soon, need to get ready for work. My dad will be home soon after I leave so ill leave him with this thread as guidance. I even tried getting hold of my ace-in-the-hole rescue mechanic but can't seem to find him... Until later... Monte in distress!!

Ok, ill disconnect the two and maybe measure... I'm going in!

Is there like a relay that could be sticking? I'm all out of ideas. I really appreciate the help dudes.

The new switch is in. No luck. This Monte is officially possessed. I'm pretty sure I have the solenoid wired correctly, but since its the next thing on the list to fiddle with - would it be safe to reverse the leads on the unit? The heavy gauge wire is the one closest to the motor so I'm thinking it is correct.

It wasn't the solenoid. So either it is wiring or the sw on the column. Going after the sw now