evman140

IIRC, I bought mine via phone direct from Eaton. Added the upper frame-coil isolator pad as well. Rides very nice.

I believe I bought a Wheel Vintiques rallye for my full-size spare and it was balanced without fuss.

All wheels are lug-centric. If the lugs were not radially spaced centric to the wheel, you would have a pretty awful wheel, let alone ride. I'm not sure if it was mentioned before, but I'll say it anyway (I skimmed pretty quickly). The hub opening needs to be perfrectly concentric to the wheel as the wheel balancer clamps the wheel onto a tapered shaft surface.

LOL ok, I'll go crack open a beer

Just found the details on this caliper BMR is selling. Its actually made by Aerospace Components. http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/4pistonprostreetcaliper.aspx Billet 6061 Aluminum Construction Grade 8 Hardware 4 Piston Vented Rotor Style Caliper 1 3/4 Diameter Pistons Internal Fluid Crossover Passages 1/8-27 NPT Inlet and Bleeder Screw Port 5 1/4" Mounting Hole Spacing 7" Overall Length Uses 6.63 Square Inch Pad 2.5 lbs Total Weight <---- Includes Bleeder Screw Assembly Fits Rotors .81" Thick 100% Made in U.S.A. Total piston surface area = 9.62in^2 !!! $165.95 ea. I'm getting really excited by this brake stuff

If you look at it in terms of a package, the BMR is actually quite competitive. If you add a pair of drilled/slotted rotors ($130 ea.) to your Wilwood caliper set, you are looking at approx $664 total (before tax). For an additional $46 you get a completely different animal that is far superior to the Wilwood setup. This is just my $0.02 and wanted to present the option as a whole. I'm looking forward to seeing whatever you move forward with!

While browsing BMR's website I discovered the BMR 4 piston option. That is a full billet alu caliper and two piece [steel] rotor package. This is significanly more expensive but if you really want to make a performance gain, this is what you need to get. Not only do you get caliper and rotor, but they also provide a billet alu hub! I wish they would publish the tech data on this. The weight reduction must be significant.

Didn't realize there was an option from Wilwood posted... They actually publish their numbers (saved me the work doing the math!) and they are competitive with the factory single piston surface area- Factory: 6.47in^2 Wilwood: 6.28in^2 SSBC: 4.49in^2 I think the Wilwood option is best; saves weight (also made from alu), maintains 97% piston surface area and looks better!

Most days I would not agree with this. However, between SSBC's offering posted above and stock, I think the most logical caliper to have the stock one. The SSBC's don't add much in terms of performance over stock - The pistons are still only on one side of the rotor and don't actually clamp the rotor from both sides. The clamping force will be altered as the mechanical advantage is reduced; the caliper piston area of the SSBC's is smaller than original. Regarding looks, even if you can see the rotor through your wheel package, the caliper pistons are on the back side of the rotor. However! There is one decent advantage to using the SSBC's. They will be lighter. Unsprung weight will be reduced if you decide to go for these.

I am happy to report that the problem has been solved! The culprit was an extra live wire attached to the solenoid. Which makes this a very curious case now because the car used to function this way approx 10 days ago! Now it seems the laws of physics do not apply to this Monte.... Anywho, the car is in transit to the interior man, only a couple days behind schedule. A big thanks to all of you guys!

Ok, ill wait. I have to call it quits soon, need to get ready for work. My dad will be home soon after I leave so ill leave him with this thread as guidance. I even tried getting hold of my ace-in-the-hole rescue mechanic but can't seem to find him... Until later... Monte in distress!!

Ok, ill disconnect the two and maybe measure... I'm going in!

Is there like a relay that could be sticking? I'm all out of ideas. I really appreciate the help dudes.

The new switch is in. No luck. This Monte is officially possessed. I'm pretty sure I have the solenoid wired correctly, but since its the next thing on the list to fiddle with - would it be safe to reverse the leads on the unit? The heavy gauge wire is the one closest to the motor so I'm thinking it is correct.

It wasn't the solenoid. So either it is wiring or the sw on the column. Going after the sw now

I made a whole page of notes and even made a labeled drawing of the solenoid terminals. I am on the way home from napa with a new ignition sw and solenoid. Thank you for the replies everyone. I will make measurements also.

Okay, so I buttoned everything up and wouldn't you know it, the second I connect the battery it tried to take off immediately... This is turning into an emergency because I am driving the car out for the interior change out TODAY. Help! Please! Help me! Thank you

Ok. Progress update: Today I added new spade terminals to all leads that apply. Degreased starter. Added some new hardware. Lubricated then reassembled. Starter installation scheduled for tomorrow @ 10a. Do you guys have any idea where a stray orange and black wire might need to go? They are all in the same bundle that goes to the starter.

So far, two chipmunks have been captured and relocated! The third has escaped the trap twice now... I guess I'll have to keep adding peanuts. Made some progress today, removed the battery, the flywheel cover and eventually the starter. I am 99% convinced the problem has to do with wiring. There were only 3 wires connected to the solenoid and one frayed wire that didn't seem to have a place. Connected wires include; yellow/orange w/ spade; larger black w/spade and the fat positive battery cable. I am going to solder on two new spades, the spade on he yellow lead broke off when I loosened the nut and the spade on the black lead is about to break off. Don't see a purple lead, maybe its just black with grease now... BTW The battery cale spade seems to have a little too much exposed metal, going to buy some shrink tubing to cover it up.

Hahaha... you guys. I replaced the battery cables about 2 years ago, so I don't think that could be a problem. I really think it is the solenoid. I didn't get to it today but will be tomorrow. One thing for sure - I'm putting in a quick disconnect. Not taking any more chances with this machine. Oh and on a side note, we have had a huge problem with chipmunks around the house so animals being responsible is quite plausible!

I swear - hand on heart - all true and completely real! And no haven't figured it out yet, going to get into it tomorrow!

So there I am in the driveway detailing my Accord and talking to my dad when the craziest spooky and now funny thing happened. Sitting in the garage all covered up nice and tight is my Monte, and all of the sudden it tries to start itself! For nearly ten seconds the starter was cycling! My father and I ran towards it - me with a 1/2" wrench to disconnect the battery and my dad to stand on the brake! Crazy weird... And yes I even checked inside for some prankster. So, I'm guessing this is the matter of a faulty solenoid? Definitely had a good laugh with this one! Thanks everyone

This is the only way to go. You can even bolt up your nice QTP units to this.

Cannot remember which magazine I saw it in but there ws a Chevelle build with emphasis on a pair of QTP units. It was designed so that the flow of exhaust gases would go from the header/collector out through the cut out with a completely straight path, zero deviation from path of flow. Hard to explain so I will draw something up. This was a system designed specifically use with cutouts and I would only put them on in such a case, not just slapped on the side of the pipes like a lot of people do.

Well of course. But more specifically, does it come out of the top of the mirror?