Dans '70 Z20
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Posts posted by Dans '70 Z20
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Finished sanding vinyl top trim and Drip rail moldings. Will be painting the blk on top moldings tomorrow and installing cross flags emblems on sides of cowl hood.
Steve was busy. After car being in sun we had some shrinking on hood. Had to start back at 1500 then 3000 then 5000 with machine. Then twice with polishing compound, twice with Hand Glaze and twice with wax. The hood is absolutely beautiful. We are hoping thats it for shrinking. Tomorrow will give us the answer. Carlisle here we come.
Just waiting on PDL harness and a wheel alignment then we are 100% !
Dan
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Thanks Mike.
Still needs to be determined if I need another 1" of backspacing in front. Due to suspension upgrades and altered pivot points top of my tires should roll in with suspension travel rather than roll out like stock set up.
My suspension guy thinks I should be fine based on a few dimensions I shared with him. He's done this more than a few times. LOL
A Performance wheel alignment next week will answer the question.
The steering wheel is a grant wheel with a lacquered wood rim. Gives the wheel a good thickness for us large guys and looks similar to a cushion grip.
The day is near!
Dan
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Thanks for posting the pics Dan. For those that are not familiar with Steves car my Monte is on left …. Steves on right in the driveway photo.
Once this is all over I guess I will have to learn how to post pics here. LOL
Been busy
- getting title for trailer I purchased in January (long story) GOT IT TWO WEEKS AGO
- dealing with contractor on re-do/whos responsible for patio poured in Sept that had a footing lift over winter and crack everywhere. COMPLETED TUESDAY
- completing my car and some final issues bing dealt with. (SOOOOO…N !)
I will be free to learn all that is needed upon my return from Carlisle. I will be bored and stress free!
Dan
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Guess they have a different philosophy than the others regarding bushing/joint locations to benefit handling. Who knows? I guess as long as we follow the instructions for each of our sets ..... We're good!!
Dan
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I can post 'em.
Dan
Thanks Dan.
Lets see what we can do to keep Tony happy!
I'll see what we can do next week.
Dan
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You beat me to corect my post Sam. After visiting the picture on Currie website and reading the explanation Marcus gives on the benefits of the Johnny Joint on one end mine are installed correctly.
I knew I installed them with sway bar holes towards rear but since I used a Hellwig frame mounted swaybar I was second guessing myself. Didn't have to verify location of sway bar holes since not utilized.
Whew. Glad I don't have to correct.
Dan
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FYI: Installed yours backwards.
Johnny Joint side is mounted on frame side for upper & lower arms
Poly bushing side is mounted on the axle side of upper & lower arms.
See this right up directly from Marcus:
"Currie Currectrac arms feature modular Johnny joints on the frame side to eliminate non linear binding issues"
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Dan, you need to learn posting pics already, you've been around long enough
Working in a tight garage. Really haven't taken any pics recently. Maybe we'll get her out of the garage next week for some picks.
…….. Then I have to learn how to post 'em. Never made an effort to learn. Of course then I'll find my car listed FOR SALE on some underground website like Cory did. LOL
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Be careful. You may not want Johnny Joints on both ends!!
They way your lowers came is how they should stay. I am assuming your rear end carrier bushing is poly ...so that your uppers will be poly at rear end side also and Johnny joint at frame.
When I set mine up with Mark (SC&C) he recommended the Johnny Joints be on the chassis side and poly on the rear end side. I would verify before install. One way will provide more handling benefit and minimize binding.
In fact, I believe my Currectac billet lower arms have Johnny Joints on frame side/ poly on rear. I'll attach a link. Yep its true Currectrac Lower Arms
Call Mark
Dan
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Interior is re-dyed/ reupholstered and completed minus frt door panels (still need to install PDL motors). Installed new console burlwood ( BTW OPGI burlwood looks nothing like original. Looks like a light corkboard with 1/4" swirls (FYI: The Parts Place gets from OPGI). Supposedly, Dynacorn started reproducing our burlwood console inserts recently and the guy I deal with here locally is verifying its correctness. In the meantime, I installed a burlwood insert I got from REM for Pontiac GP's that is correct Burl graining but a bit more red. Better than the other crap for the time being. Steve 3000 & 5000 sanded fenders and then we Installed passenger outer/inner fender last night and will be installing drivers side Monday. Took a bit to get it right ….. but maaaan Steve has the fender and gaps aligned perfectly. Also received my trunk mat and spare tire cover and installed them.
I will be cleaning up/bolt blacking another round of bolts this weekend and finishing the wet sanding of all my drip rail moldings and vinyl top trim for polish & install next week.
The race to the finish for GM Nationals - Carlisle!! ….. feel like Cory did last year
Dan
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Yea, I'm going to definitely go tubular on lower. Could I get away with just doing lowers you think since the lowers alter the camber?
All the suspension geometry benefits are gained in the shorter length and new geometry of upper control arms. The lower arms provide no benefit. In fact most lower arms are just tubular versions of stock lower arms (same length/geometry). The only lower ones that are different are the SPC lower arms. Since you will be adding more caster angle the wheel will set closer to rear of well and won't be centered in the openng when aligned for better handling. To make up for this the SPC version sets wheel forward a bit so that when you add caster wheel is centered in wheel well.
Hope this helps.
Dan
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I'm not concerned about the weight of the sway bars but more about the track use.
Go with larger front / smaller back. The Hellwig set will give the mnost for the money with the benefit of mounting to frame crossmember rather than lower control arms. Really makes a difference.
Rather than typing everything all over again read my responses to "bigscaht" in this thread. It will explain everything …. and the benefits price/performance of Hellwigs.
Then call Mark @ Sevitskes Classics & Customs. Don't be sorry …. call him first.
Dan
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Kicking the resto speed up a notch to insure completion for GM Nationals. Looks like we're gonna make it!! I am excited to say the least.
I feel like Cory last year for Eastern Meet.
Dan
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Nice run!!
Can't wait to run mine to see where we're at. Likely mid-12's somewhere.
But your giving me a bit of confidence I may do better. I have .30 over 454, Crower #1403 hydraulic roller cam 563/586 @ 110 , stock heads ported/polished/port matched , Manley Valves, dbl valve springs and Crower stainless roller rockers, RPM intake, 780 Pro Systems Holley with the same 3:31's with a bit more stall at 2600-2800. Maybe I will get lucky! …… or die tryin'
Great runs Mikey. Glad you hit the 11's …….. now you can sleep.
Dan
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Here is another link with some really nice stuff. Mark is a really smart guy and always willing to help with all budgets. Give him a call he'll let you know what will work for you price range.
I second this statement. The call(s) i made to Mark gave me the best education and advice when building my suspension. He will work within any budget. Keep in mind what you ultimately want and build to that. Otherwise, like Scott said it always cost more to do things twice. Jim here on long island calls his car the 1/2 price car. As we replace/upgrade stuff he gets everything at 1/2 price!! LOL
Dan
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Fairfield Inn and Suites, Carlisle will never let us stay there again after our next FGMCC visit.
We're gonna have switch to a different hotel every time the Eastern Meet returns to Carlisle.
Dan
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On Long Island this is how we do a frame off.
- Alert the troops of the day (Usually 10 guys is fine)
- Purchase Donuts/Coffee or Case of beer depending on day/time
- Have car unbolted from chassis and set to go
- Wait for snowfall (happened for two of em)…… then shovel & salt driveway
- Five guys on each side and Steve (project manager LOL) with a bull horn! JK
- Prepare for sychnonized lifting (realize we forgot to take a prophylactic dose of Ibruprofen) …… and lift.
- We walk body off frame and set her down on a wooden dolly Steve has made out of 4x4's. He made dolly so 4x4's run exactly where chassis would set, with 4x4's running side-to-side to hold everything together. Like Scott he added wheels to the dolly so body can easily be rolled around. Make sure you secure them well. If you hit the lip of you driveway apron with all the weight of the body they can tear off easily and scare the s#@&! oughta you.
Dan
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Well maybe a "Joe Vega" fender from Arizona ……. but he will never get his contact info now. To bad.
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OTOWN "Oughta Town" BOB …………name Paul Demling in profile??
UR not in Florida either if your from OTOWN!! Thnx for not replying or posting on FGMCC ever again.
Your kind is not welcome here.
You just shut down your welcome in two posts to the the best source for resources,
technical advice, parts sources and comraderie in this country regarding anything 70-72 Monte Carlo. Priceless !!
Eehhhh ..Fiberglass fenders ……. yeah fiberglass …… that's the ticket!
Uhhh … Bye-Bye
Dan
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They pick it up from your email account regardless of what device you access it from. The BOT somehow figured out your password. I have never seen it save contact lists, rather once they gain access to your email they simply enter and send out what they want to your contact list. It is just a BOT not a actual person.
Simply change your email password. ( use capitols, letters, numbers, "_" underscores etc. to make it difficult for a BOT to figure out in the future ).
Then the BOT will no longer have access to your account and it will end. When you change your password most sites will tell you how secure the password you are trying to change to is. This way you can continue to change it until you get the security level you want. This has happened to all of us.
Dan
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Ordered my kit from The Parts Place. One of the guys there has a first gen Monte and they are very familiar with our cars. We had all the correct stuff. Dont remember about the flanged headed bolts but Steve is very particulsr, If they werent correct Steve would not have been happy. Dont remember any pronlems at all.
Dan
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Glad I wasn't the only one. LOL. My job is done here!
Glad you are using your new found education to help others too. Pay it forward.
They mention nothing in directions and bend is so slight I missed it too. Maybe they should come with a sticker that says "TOP"
Dan
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Here is a link. Click on pic to make larger. I guess the easiest way to insure you have it on correctly is to check the bend in the arms on each side and make sure the look like this pic. There is a noticeable bend in them. I believe the bar should bend slightly down at center where differential is. Yous looks like it bends slightly up. May be an optical illusion.
http://scandc.com/new/node/266
Another article with install on chevelle
Hellwig rear bar install-chevelle
Good explanation of benefits of this bar
My '70 SS454 build
in SS 454
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Remember when I was in that stage. Scary ain't it. Brings back memories. At this point, I was "all in" and willing to whatever it took to reach the end. I give you a lot of credit attacking this restoration on your own. Bravo.
Keep up the pics. Glad my purchases of repro parts have gone to a good cause.
With all these tear down pics your truly the "Cannibal from Hannibal". LOL
Keep forging ahead………
DAn