Murphy

M20 question....I'm curious on which spline count is needed on a SBC350, going to convert from TH350 to M20. I'll be getting a new flywheel,of course, but which is recommended??Have found several m20's dated 68 to 71 for around $700.....

It's looking good BurnOut, alot more than I'd want to attempt. Finished my floor this weekend since Daytona was postponed!! Now I just need to order carpet......I also strung new speaker wire in the flat plastic conduit.

Yes, purchased directly from Eastwood. When you set up an acct, they send you a Thank you email with a code# for FREE shipping on 1st order. Which was great. After I received the order, I got another Thank you email and another code# for free shipping again to be used in 30days. I'm impressed with their services...........

No problem Scott, thanks for encouraging words. I'm in Toronto about once a year, will definately give you a shout when that business trip comes around again!

I had almost zero waste, as any small pieces I had, I cut to fit into various little gaps and then I used HVAC joint tape to cover all seems. Its shiny foil tape which blends in so well that you cannot even tell from the pics that it is used. I knew that 34 sq ft wasn't enough but didn't want to order another kit until this was installed so I could get a more accurate measurement. I plan on covering up the rear wheel wells that are exposed in the picture and then the section that's unfinished figures out to about 8 sqft. Any left over from that I'll probably try to fit under the dash against the firewall......The HVAC tape was $8 bucks at Home Depot for 50 ft, 2 inches wide.

The reason I did the seems was that the POR15 is nice a thick & I wanted to sealup the chalked areas. I removed a few minor rusty spots with a grinder first then a primer. I chose the Rustoleum cause it was much cheaper and I have sealed it from the bottomside already, I didn't really have any rust that I was covering. The Eastwood "Thermo-Sound Dampening Barrier" is 1/8" thick & is very easy to work with. The Kit I got was 34sqft w/rolling tool. (which is a must) I've just ordered 2 10' kits as they are on special for $21 ea. The originalkit was $155. So I'll have $200 into the floor. Many others have told me of the difficulty of the Dynamat to work with & the cutup hands U will get plus twice the price.....

Partially, all the seems and any questionable spots. The entire underside from the rear bumper to the firewall I did POR15. After 48hrs, allowing the POR15 to cure (on the inside),I then brush painted with Rustoleums Flat Black for metal. I spent a good bit of time cleaning & wiping down the metal befor paint. Really turned out great!

Just some updated photos of the floor..... Found that Eastwoods product is a better quality and cheaper....34sqft kit wasn't quite enough!!

PM sent

Too bad the rear extensions are pot metal & can't be welded. That would look really clean without the front & rear seems...

Outstanding project.......

Just curious, has anyone ever welded the front fender extentions to the fender? With a litle bodywork, then you could eliminate the seem between the 2 for a nice clean look...

I called that guy and he has several inserts including a black one with the Monte Carlo script......give him a call!

Looking at purchasing a set of Hedman headers, mid-length vs full length. My reasoning is that when I convert to a 4-speed (year or so) I won't have to change or modify the leftside header due to linkage issues. Currently have a TH350, column shift.I should only have to modify the exhaust pipe..possibly. My question is, the full length headers help produce more HP vs mid-length or shorty's.......Is this really true? And could there really be much of a difference?

Roger that!! The sterring wheel shown is blue, isn't that your interior color?

Here's some options in Phoenix.....http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/2772126998.html

What's left can't be to good either!! Better get a the full pan and cut it to fit and drop it in..........

Here's another of the complete floor, it's excellant (I think) for 40+ yrs old. Once I get it back from welding shop, I'm covering everything in HushMat then new carpet.

Yesterday I finally received my front 1/4 floor pan from Lutty's. It's just the drivers floor section.....$55. I'm actually only going to use a 12"X8" piece. My buddy is the welder so he gets the car tomorrow. Pull your seats and all the carpet to make sure what you need. I had a bad spot under the back seat which was already fixed

Hey Joe, You need to take a look at the POR15 product line, I've used several of their products and this stuff is great. A little pricy but appears to be bulletproof. I've done the complete underside of mine with a brush & spray can, now I'm moving into the engine compartment. They also carry several topcoat colors also.

Which year do you have? Any close up photos available?

2 or 3 GRAND!! Ouch! Sure would like to see one done tho.

The grille of my 71 is really nice, no cracks, chips, or scratches....but was wondering what it might look like fully chromed. Has anyone ever had one chromed? Maybe that would be too much bling??

Are you referring to the shields? http://www.opgi.com/p/auto-body-parts/23358/139/M240137.html

Is there 2 steel lines going into your fuel pump & one line to the carb? Or just one line in & one line out of fuel pump? If 2 in & one out you have a return line on the sending unit in the tank.....