MC1970U

After finally getting the interior restoration complete I have a problem and looking for some solutions. It looks great but the new foam, spring repair and seat cover on the power bench has shoved me up and forward so much so that it has become uncomfortable for me to drive. While this is my wife's car I love driving it and would like to make it a bit more 6'2" friendly. I was wondering if any one has had any experience with track extenders? I was also wondering how hard it would be to flip sides on the tracks so the up/down can be at the front as apposed to the stock rear location? Feel like a Big Daddy Roth trading card especially when in low, spoony

Yes thanks Dennis, Very detailed and helpful. I will get started on this Wednesday. Thanks again, OregonMC

The performance is the same, in the instance of the one quarter not at all, whether I am using any of the switch's from front or rear and whether the doors are opened or closed. In other words the problem is consistent regardless of door position or switched used. Hope that helps you to help me I think these are the original motors. Besides cleaning and greasing the motors could there be more wrong with them? Thanks for the help, OregonMC

The right front window only works when the weather turns dry. During the rainy season it just stops working but a couple weeks into warmer/dryer weather it starts working again? The left rear was sluggish and really slowed about a quarter way up to where I would have to either help it up manually or run up the engine rpms. The other day it stuck in the down position and would not lift any higher then about a half of a inch. Even with me trying to pull it up manually and/or running up the rpms I can not get it any higher than about two inches. Thinking about what the best approach to this would be and thought I would ask before taking things apart? It looks like what's available for motors are rebuilds and I was wondering if I should buy them or try rebuilding them myself. I have read quite a few links, several are broken, regarding the topic but looking for any new info before I start? All my window tracks/gears and all have been thoroughly greased during interior restoration but that didn't have the slightest effect on the problems. Thanks, Oregon MC

Decided to install the controls on the lower door panel area in the carpet section that way it can be somewhat reversed with new carpet if I chose. Any thoughts? spoony

Anyone install heated seats on their Monte Carlo. If so which control/switch did you go with and where did you mount it? Thanks, spoony

Finished installing a new radiator ala USRadiator. Very happy with it. Hey I would like to leave some reviews on items I have installed on the Monte. What's the best way to go about that as I don't see anywhere special that is being done? spoony

Thanks for the information guys. There is a pretty big difference in price between Cars Inc. and Legendary. I had to contact Legendary to get a price as it is not shown on their website. Do they both sell a quality cover or is one known to be better then the other? Feel free to, and please do so, PM me with your experience if you would rather not post them here and I will keep the information to myself. I need to get this started asap. Thanks again everyone, spoony PS I will post some before after pictures once done.

Thanks guys. I am also considering a one piece carpet any pros and cons on that? Best dash pads? Thanks, spoony

Installed a high efficiency 3 row from USRADIATOR. Everything went together well except for one minor thing. The trim around the tanks/headers are different then the originals and you cant attach the id tag and overflow tube bracket. Other then that I am very happy with fit, finish and quality. Minor but I should mention it in case anyone is interested. Would it be helpful to leave a review after I put a few miles on it?

Hello all, Getting ready for some serious work on the 70 Monte. I was wondering who you guys had good experiences with when it comes to seat covers, carpets and seat foam? Do you know what the factory seat covers are referred to as? It has what appears to be a nylon face and the rest is vinyl. Bruce's Monte has the same covers. It is some kind of a synthetic type of cloth that I would refer to as nylon. Thanks, spoony

David, Wish I would have seen the offer a little sooner. Harrison built some quality stuff. When I was doing the dash and decided to replace the heater core, out of caution, I was pretty apprehensive looking at the good factory heater core and the best options available. In the end I went ahead and did but the Harrison was far better quality and I don't expect to get 40 years out of the replacement. I did end up finding a quality, paying for it, factory replacement at USRadiator. It makes me very happy when I can find a quality made in America anything these days. Not always but many time more expensive but its my personal experience I find better quality, service, knowledge and I feel real good about putting it to the man and giving my brothers and sisters work. Thanks everyone I will let you know how everything goes once it gets here and I install it, spoony

Thanks lastss I will shot you an email! Thanks 7tonemonte I would appreciate the part number. Another question. Why cant I copy and past like I used to be able to? I was trying to copy from word and paste in the topic and here in the comment and for some reason cant? spoony

Need help locating brass/copper radiator for the 70? Contacted USRadiator who gave me the name of a bunch of their distributors and not a single one had what I needed. I gave them the part number/s and they all acted like they did not know what I was talking about. Just need the stock 3 row that was original. I could order directly from USRadiator but they said 5 weeks to build and the cost is more buying direct. 5 weeks just wont do as the wife drives her Monte everyday. Man things have really changed you used to be able to go down to the parts house and get a brass/copper radiator no problem. I did search the forum and could not find much on this except a lot of discussion on aluminum radiators. I would prefer the brass/copper and would like to find a US manufacture? Thanks, spoony

She's all done and man am I happy I went with the DUI. A bit costly the way I went but the payoff was well worth it. Now I don't know for sure what the actual condition my stock distributor was in but what I can tell you is the new set up is vastly superior to how my stock distributor performed with a new set of points installed. The new DUI distributor, new live wires and new Autolite platinum's made for at least a 25hp gain, smother idle and much more off line torque. Its not so bad getting on the highway onramp with the 273s now. Thanks for all the support and encouragement, spoony Almost forgot the low speed dead spot/stall on slight acceleration is gone. That was really annoying and a bit dangerous.

Just installed the Autolite platinums, dialed in the timing and she runs so much better. I think I added at least 25hp, the engine idles so smooth now and pulls much stronger. The 273s are working much better for me now. I would encourage anyone who is thinking of going with a DUI distributor to seriously consider it. More expensive then some of the alternatives but I am very happy I spent the extra cash. Buy direct as they will set it up for your car. On a separate note I paid my dues and joined FGMCC a month ago and haven't heard anything back yet? spoony

Got the new DUI distributor and plug wires installed this weekend. Need to time and install some new plugs. spoony

Yeah I am really looking forward to dropping it in. The car runs really great on original startup and for however long I drive it but when I shut the engine off and start it back up the rpms float around slightly at idle. The worst thing is that it will just go dead sometimes when accelerating slowly. It doesn't seem to ever do this on original startup and when I drive the car for extended periods just anytime I shut it off for a minute then jump back in start up and drive. I have to play with the throttle some times. When I did my last tune-up and rebuilt the carb it ran perfectly with none of this problem. I did notice some movement when doing the timing and that the distributor was pretty worn. It has gotten worse as the points have aged. It was time to replace the points and the distributor so I decided to upgrade. Have any preference on wires or plugs? MC1970U

D.U.I. street/strip #12720. MC

After a few years of sitting on the side line, been busy moving around a lot, I joined FGMCC today, ordered a D.U.I distributor and hope to get my t-shirt order from Tony finalized today as well. MC1970U

Thanks guys, Got the distributor ordered. I will let you all know how it turns out, MC1970U

Patrick thanks for the help, The info was right there on the decal just like you said. The decal is about half the size of yours and so faded that I didn't think anything was legible. But I got on top of it with a loop and was able to just make out 300hp, yeeha, 350. Couldn't make out much more then that but thanks for that it was just what I needed to get a little determined. Your engine compartment looks very similar to mine. Yours is much cleaner, has the air/smog canister and no cruise but other then that it looks like the same car. Even same color fenders The freeze plugs are stamped steel. Not brass or stainless. They look pretty old and grungy with the good old Chevy red/orange paint on them. I wonder if someone slid an after market cam in there? I had a 63 Suburban with a 350 and a 2 barrel that had that slight lope. It was supposedly a stock 250 hp motor that came out of a 68. How hard would it be to figure out the specs on the cam while in the car? Even with that slight lope the engine runs pretty smooth at idle. According to the specs in the 70 shop manual, if I am reading it correctly, the cam was intake.2600/exhaust.2733. Did you convert your A/C over from R12 to something else? I have got to get mine working for summer. Any ideas on the CFM or best way to figure the overall weight. Can't find it now but I think I saw a thread once that showed weights on factory options? I imagine I would add the options with the gross vehicle weight of 3564/3591? I think I am going to try to get to the first or second day of the meet and get to now some of you guys. I would go Sunday but got a hot date with the wife for a ZZ Top/Jeff Beck concert. Great forum and as always I appreciate everyone's help, MC1970U

Some questions. Trying to get me specs together so I can order the distributor. 1) What is the best way to confirm there is in fact a factory 300hp 350 in my car? I was told by the tech who I had rebuild the carb that this was the high output 350 but I wanted to know if there was a way to confirm this short of having the build, hope to find while working on the interior, sheet? Does the fact that it has a 4MV confirm the 300hp. The manual shows that the 350 with 4V as a 300hp motor and the carb as well as everything else looks pretty stock so I am thinking it is the original carb? 2) Am I correct that the Rochester 4MV is a 750cfm carb? 3) In my searches I see vehicle weights are all over the place? It looks like the most common are 3564 and 3591. Anybody know a good way to figure weight with accessories? 4) At idle the cam has a slightly smooth lope to it can I assume, everything else is, it is original? The engine does not appear rebuilt but I am not sure? 5) If it is a 300hp car it should be 10.25 compression correct? I have been running premium in the car and it runs well using it. Is there any reason to consider a lower middle grade?

You know I just remembered I put a set of those wires on my 96 Impala and if I remember correctly they were pretty decent. MC1970U

Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far please keep them coming. The car is the wife's and while I plan on completely restoring it as original as possible the distributor is worn out and the points got to go so a quality HEI is needed. Kind of leaning towards D.U.I. as I like the fact that D.U.I. will set it up specifically for your car and that I can open the gap as large as possible on the plugs. I would imagine this would help with fuel efficiency? I am really happy with the way the car runs out right now and want to keep everything as stock as I can while doing a few tweaks and a quality build. The cap issue does not really bother me nor am I going to be showing the car. I want to put the best quality American made, when I can, components in the car. I have sold all our newer cars, they were just too frustrating to work on, and I am down to an 83 Elky and the 70 Monte. They are daily drivers and at this point I plan on going out, if you know what I mean, with them. Thanks again everyone as I know this topic has been somewhat covered it is still good to get some fresh opinions, MC1970U