VE3HZZ

Murphy that would be GREAT. Let me know yes a bit of a heads up before. Can for sure get together...maybe if it's in summer time can bring out the Monte. I am about 55 minutes from CN Tower (non rush hour) as I'm in Oshawa in the East end. And your welcome the car is coming along well. Did you buy the stuff from Eastwood site directly? I'll have to check it out too..... Scott

Great info Thanks!!! I will store this away for when I do mine. I had the guy that wanted my old dash pad come today to buy it. I took the clips off it but he has enough. I painted them (sorry no pics) and put them back on the stereo pad I got and awaitng install. Got the dash panel wood grain out (that rear "defogger" switch is a PITA with those small nuts to get off). Looking at my carpet it's in really good shape. I bet at some point it was replaced? But I will redo the interior like you did. I was also told night and day difference in sound deadening and heat transfer from engine compartment once done so another motivation to Get R DONE!!! Good luck and PICS of the REST when you can....... Regards Scott

Thanks for the reply Murphy. I understand the reasoning now thank you. I have to source the POR15 I think I know someone local who sells it as a dealer so may opt to go that way underneath. As for the inside, well will look at the stuff that is suppose to be at Home Depot and see if I can find a comparison to the Eastwood stuff. Makes sense it would be similar as it is designed to do similar thing only in a house/structure. Moisture and sound deadening and heat barrier is common to both. I imagine that the Dynamat came from construction in housing originally more then just an automotive application. Sometimes brand names are just that...but the DEAL on it now for 10 ft rolls doesn't seem too bad. Of the 34 sq ft you purchased what if any was left or waste? Did you use it all + need more hence the repurchase? or just too good of a deal not to have some to finish other areas? Thanks again for the info and pics, help to inspire us all I'm sure to get out there!!! Scott

Great pics thanks for sharing and looks good. I have a few questions. You used the POR 15 underneath and then only the seems where there was rust inside the interior? Is it because it's a bit $ to do the entire inside floor pan? with the POR15? I can see the rustoleum would do the job, but isn't the POR15 designed to chemically change RUST to prevent it from reverting back? Just asking as I think you did a great job and looks great but just curious on the thoughts for doing it this way..as I will be wanting to do mine sometime soon. Also the Eastwood can you tell me the thickness of it and current $ over the other Dynamat. I had a local guy tell me that the same basic stuff is available at Home Depot to do the same job, just in a roll similar to what sounds like you used. If it is would be a good cheap way to get similar results... Thanks and keep the pics coming Scott

Here is what mine look like. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z244/ve3hzz/Monte%20Carlo/DSCN0846.jpg I can take a close up shot for you on the weekend. I didn't install them but there metal so must be from a Chevelle. I also have the rubber splash shields to go over the a arms if I decide to install them. Brand new still in the packaging. I'd have to rivet or drill and bolt them on so not sure I want to yet. Not the greatest shot of them but you get the idea. Scott

There was a joke there but I decided to leave it alone.. I won't go number 1 or 2 on this thread

Rob is correct. Take the 2 hoses that run the firewall one is an inlet the other outlet that runs coolant through the heater core. Take both lines off after you drain some fluid so you don't spill it all over the engine. Get a piece of cooper pipe if you have 1/2 laying around. OR got to hardware store and get a water hose splice plastic connector and attach the 2 together with this using good hose clamps. Make sure they are tight. This will bypass the heater core till you can get it fixed/replaced. Also if you can get a couple of CAPS to go over the ends of the heater core on the fire wall so nothing leaks out. Also helpful when you do go to remove the old heater core so it does not leak all over the interior. As well when installing NEW heater core it is a good idea to PRE FILL it with coolant mixture and cap off the tubes prior to installation. Not FULL FULL but 3/4 as it will help with getting rid of any air pockets in the system when you refill the coolant and run the car to expel air in the system. If I had pics of what I was talking about I'd post them but it's been so long since I did it last time don't have any. If someone else knows the diameter of the hoses can let you know the size of pipe you need as the jointer between them. Good luck hope that helps at all. Scott

Yes it does put it in all my combustion engines. It does a great job IMO. And it petroleum based and is good for combustion engines of all types even 2 cycle gas trimmers etc. With the Ethanol put in our fuel now it will help keep them running cleaner and side benefit is cleaner emissions. Worth a try but the link I posted gives you all the info from the company. Read up and you'll be a convert too!!!! Scott

Darren I saw the pen you are talking about I think at Michaels. Do you remember the name? The one closest to me did have one but kinda pricey, but if it does look like chrome I'm in...may check the other one in Whitby as well but want to be sure I'm looking at the same pen. It was like 18.00 or something similar. I was thinking will it look like silver or chrome? I also have a model to do some touch ups on if it works out would be GREAT for my Monte Model I found and plan on painting to match the car. Thanks Scott

Just in case the OEM bulbs should be 194 so they are available everywhere even Wally World. I too put in LED's but mine came from work so didn't cost me a dime...a perk...but yes need ones that have LED facing UP (from the base) to make them really effective and not too big same size as the standard peanut bulbs. They do make a difference. And I need to paint mine too so glad to read all the comments and suggestions here... Scott

Looks real nice Larry, love the colour When/if I redo mine hope it looks half as good. First however it's get that Quad running good and go from there.... I need a vacation from work so I can work on my Monte..one gives me stress the other takes it away...you guess which one!!! LOL Scott

NP your welcome hope it does help you sort it out let us know how you make out. Regards Scott

Dennis that is very true you can't have too many tools but you CAN run out of place to store them. I have a wooden rack to the LEFT of this box and it is a good size and next to it is my wall furnace and beside that is the 60 G compressor and on the other side is my work bench and then my other tool box and then the floor drill press. I have peg board on the other side wall from belt line up to just below the ceiling. It is full too of stuff I have 4 multi draw screw/nail etc units one is 60 draws etc. and then all the odds n ends and my 3 old kitchen cabinets next to that in the front...seriously running out of space. floor and other wise. And still the Monte fits nose to tail with room to walk around it, open drivers door fully and almost on the passenger side and tons of room in front. For a 1 car garage it is not a bad size but still I could use oh say another 2 car garage on top of it..LOL..Now getting that is entirely another matter LOL.. Re-organization is much required!!! Scott

Here is a few pics of the area and the resistor pack on mine (AC maybe different) that should give you some idea as it or the plug for it could be what is loose. Hope these help at all. Scott

Well got a few pics of it and got my brand new tool box all put together and up in it's new home. It is actually taller then my original which I've had for years and is OVER FULL hence the need for this one. Now I have power from behind it and ready to LOAD it up (started) with tools for all the projects. So Monte will benefit big time from the re-organization Here is a pic of it in it's final position tucked in beside my work bench on the opposite end from my other box. It is taller then me now!!! GREAT DEAL on this one almost COST price...1/3 or less then the normal price of these!!!

Listen to your car it is telling you, when you REV me you want to HEAR ME....LOL... Sorry serious subject but Darren is likely on to something. Try this run a power wire DIRECT from the battery + to the power wire of the radio ( the always ON one) with a 20 amp inline fuse in it. Just for test purposes does not have to be all routed and installed at this point. Run the GROUND to the chassis as you likely have now a good solid one if not already. Then turn on the radio, start your engine..rev it and see what happens. Likely it will work fine. So as Darren said it is likely the wiring setup. Take a relay and wire it in to the battery on Tab 30 (with a 20 amp fuse) and then 87/87a of that run it to the radio. Then take the 85 run to ground and 86 run a smaller gauge wire and run it to an accessory that only comes on when the car is running or rather the ignition is in the RUN/ACC position. This setup will eliminate any wiring in the car other then the speakers maybe being used. In fact the radio power wire which should by factory be ignition only would serve to run to pin 86 of the relay. This is a switching circuit then and no power will flow without that relay being switched. Safe and no strain on the current electrical system and juice right from the battery. Large 10 Gauge wire to Relay and out to radio. If you run an amp can hook up a 2nd relay in a BANK affair under the hood on the fender or firewall. You can even find them out of a junked car (newer CHEV Cavalier or?) for the engine bay that have plastic covers over them for a sleek look or can buy this on line like those PAINLESS wiring harnesses. I think as Darren pointed out this is likely your problem but instead of chasing your tail, the wire to battery FIRST to check that works fine is the first thing I'd try... Just my .02 cents..... Regards Scott

Thanks that is a big help. Not sure about the kick panels I like the fresh air vents for summer cruising in the heat. NO AC. But the rest sounds doable and I have some of the components (speakers for rear and know where I can get the fronts) to start with. But I want a stealth unit maybe and mostly will be MP3 anyway as I have a CD 6disc in my Miata now and it's old non MP3 or CD-R readable so it's coming out and may put it in the Monte with a head unit, but likely putting in one with all media playing capability so no need for the bulky CD's any more...Served it's purpose but need to upgrade. Rest of it however is good starting point. Appreciate the info. Regards Scott

Nice setup what radio and speakers are you running. I am going to install speakers in my dash and either put a radio below the dash or get one that installs where the factory one was. I have the factory radio could put in, but not sure it works? Besides then I'd have to hook up a speaker to it. AM here sucks except for weather and traffic LOL Any info appreciated I am going to do a radio for next summer cruising. I have a set of 6x9's in the REAR (or a pair of crappy ones that will be changed) and can put in an amp in trunk etc. Nothing crazy just loud enough to hear of the exhaust Scott

If your looking for those small yellow tack cloths they use to wipe down the surface prior to pain application you can find them cheap at Wal Mart in the automotive section with the spray paints. They can be found in most automotive body shop supply shops as well and I think in most UAP/NAPA, Pep Boys etc in there automotive body work section. They work OK but I like the pro grade prep from a can (3M) and a good WHITE clean 100 cotton cloth over the surface. That is what the pro's use so why not mimic the best option and spend a few $ more for it. Panel Prep or something like that...I'd go to a pro body shop supply store or ask at a local body shop what they use and how to get it....your young so they likely won't just blow you off if you show interest in doing it right.... Hey if ya go in as a profession maybe some of the old timers here will someday bring there cars to you for restoration...

I was reading up on this on another thread and on line basically it matters how many vent hoses and lines come out of your tank. The CA models had the charcoal cannister and had more and some only had 2? I am not sure in 72 if all the newer emissions were in place so your best bet first is to count the vent or lines going into your tank and start from there. Even someone with another 72 may have different depending on where it was built and for which state? I am sure the guru's will be along to assist you better just the info I've collected so far on that points to crawl under and LOOK to be sure before ordering. Hope that helps any? Regards Scott

Here ya go...google is your friend http://www.seafoamsales.com/ Read n learn all about it...

Here the biggest reason to use Seafoam in more then 1x per year is now due to the Ethanol we have in the gas up to 10% and even the premium brands have it and since the same tanker fills the tanks each week with different grades it is finding it's way into the higher priced gas as well despite the propaganda from the gas companies. So the Seafoam or other additives help to reduce the ill effects of Ethanol on fuel longevity and corrosive effects on seals and rubbers not designed for it. The shelf life of this mixed fuel before it goes inert is much less then it use to be as well. Octane boosters also help depending on there formula. Wish we didn't have to and had the higher octane we use to have when these cars were new instead of the LOW octane crap they shove down our throats now. Pump gas now is swill compared to what it use to be. Oh well...anyone convert a Monte to an electric yet? Scott

Well OK I know it is not that much a gallon. But the other BIG problem is finding it around here. But I CAN go to the local store and buy a can of Seafoam anytime even in DEAD of winter when the car is stored. I also don't have to go with a GAS CAN to get that GALLON of fuel and transport it (again in DEAD OF WINTER) in my wife's car (and the complaining that will follow) or any other time. So even though PER GALLON it SEEMS $ for Seafoam for all other aspects is is CHEAPER...and less headaches Besides 1 can can do several fill ups so it's all good under the hood Scott

Why not use SEAFOAM instead of the other stuff. It works better than most additives as it is a petroleum based product. It cleans injectors, fuel lines, carbs etc and it is SAFE for use in ALL modern vehicles. In fact if your state requires emissions testing and your car is borderline or won't pass, run a bottle mixed in with a tank full of fuel and you will likely PASS. I use it on my bike, and my cars. And even on my snow blower and my lawn mower as we have Ethanol (spit on ground) crap in our gas and this helps when using that CRAPOLA.... You should be able to get it at local automotive parts stores or UAP NAPA I think? SEAFOAM it works....try it!!! And it's INEXPENSIVE...a LOT more so then a gallon of racing fuel I expect.. Scott

Yeah even with shipping being DOUBLE that's the same price!! STUPID So I bet freight charges wouldn't be much more then 150 even. So that is still 100 cheaper...and that is for one re-chromed and I've seen some listed for that price (300) and less than 100 shipped!!!! And if I get it done here for that price then add 13% tax to it and then have to either A ship it there or drive there with it to drop off and pick up to keep costs down... Doesn't make a lot of sense. And I bet it's a thin layer not triple dipped like they use to do!!! Real RIP OFF if you ask me... oh well it's a dying art and a bygone era....all the new chrome on any cars now is PLASTIC...