jacob

I have flow tech long tube headers I had to heat them up and put a few dings in them for the spark plug boots to fit on the spark plug. but they fit good around the motor I'm also using a high performance mini starter so you may have a tight fit if you are using a regular starter. I got my headers uncoated so if i needed to beat them up I could with out chipping it all off and there's a guy locally that can ceramic coat them inside and out.

its been a couple months since the Monte last ran so fired it up today and wanted to get your opinions on what power my motors putting out the engine builder said close to 350HP before the new aluminum heads. Heres the specs 350 Chevy bored .40 over. crank was ground down I think by .10 hyperdralic pistons aluminum cylinder heads from proheader there 120s 64cc angled plugs that I was told were positioned in the lowest pressure zone in the cylinder making a larger spark ... the threads on the spark plugs are real long to reach this area. the compression is in the low tens I can check the exact compression though. the intake manifold is a edelbrock 2101 performer intake the carburetor is a edelbrock performer series 600 cfm the motor is a two bolt main any concerns or opinions.

And heres the body in the garage whenever I want to work on it I just roll the chassis out and I can work away winter or summer.

started doing the bracing today here is what I've got so far. ive got more bracing to do but its a start.

Thank you Leo I will definitely check out the website and I'm planing on bracing every thing any way and your welcome boots.

I hope to get some real work done soon starting with the bracing inside the car.

The NPD price was $ 444.95 with out braces ... the braces I have are in good shape they just need to be cleaned up. Has anyone else done a full floor replacement? I haven't seen any videos or pictures of a Monte getting a full floor replacement just Chevelles.

And no expensive shipping!

New floor pan from NPD here is the back side its not made in America but it seems to be good quality 20 gauge steel and in weld thru primer... got to love new sheet metal.

Thanks! And I will post pictures and now that I have taken over the garage I can work even in the winter I'm hoping I can make some real progress.

The holes are every where under the rear seat, where you put your feet in both the front and rear and there's pinholes under where the bench seat was. The vinyl top cracked sat in the rain where it rusted out then water got in the car the carpet acted like a sponge and rusted that out ... its amazing what sitting for 10 years does to a car.

So do bracing even if I am not removing the rocker panels thanks and I will definitely post pictures I'm already saving for the floor so shouldn't be to far away from starting this project.

Is there any bracing needed I would think the fire wall and back seat bracing would keep it from moving but I want to be sure.

I have cut the large spots of rust out 6 spots total ... pretty much all of the lower portions of the floor where water settled have rusted away and there's some serious pitting around those areas and pin holes. The rust hole on the drivers side toe board was big enough you could put your fist though. after I had cut the rust out into the shiny stuff I had a couple good piece of floor from my parts car and I did an overlap patch on it. I know its not right but I did get to practice welding and there's no problem cutting it out since I didn't pay any thing for it but that does not fix the other 4 holes. I just need to replace the entire floor.

What other places have a full floor pan I know luttys and opgi do you know of any other places?

Oh yeah that's how I feel about it do it right or do it over where would you get a one piece floor and how is the shipping? I have now gotten around to doing some real welding so I think I can tackle it.

Rust strikes again we knew the top had big holes in it and knew the floor had some rust. Now that the carpet has been removed along with the rest of the interior the rust is far worse than we expected. If we were to replace the entire floor what would be our best options? The bracing looks good ( no rust holes just dirty )so we could reuse them right? Any thoughts or concerns I can post pictures and any tips would be helpful.

doing a second frame off and trying to find space for all of the parts.

that looks great! I need to do start on my trunk floor soon.

I have a question about the points on my orange car we put new points in new coil and new rotor button. we have fire from the points but not to the spark plugs we've tested the coil there is 12 volts there what else could it be? Shot Howard owned the car before I did and he hooked up the jumper cables back wards and it burned up a fuse able link to the starter. My guess is either we have a bad rotor button or distributer and as far as I know the cap does not have any cracks in it.

thank you guys so much for your comments they mean alot to me. I got the new cylinder heads on and one the bolts wouldnt tighten down so we will have to pull it again and retap it. Im so glad we did a chassis crank it just makes it so much more easyer to get to this stuff.

Had to tear the motor down it was running good then it did a real light skip and not to long after that it was blowing steam out the back. So we let it cool down I pulled all the plugs and # 2 shot out water and antifreeze so we knew it was either a cracked head or a head gasket... kieth put his pressure tester on the radiator we waited and waited but the clyinder was dry as a bone so we restorced the heads ( all the bolts were a little loose ). we ran it again and no steam no skip pulld the plug and no water. The next day it was full of water again pulled the head took it to mike found it had been repaired before and discovered a new crack in it so i just decided to get a brand new set of aluminum heads I had wanted from the start. mike gave us a deal on those aluminum heads they are $1200 and hes letting us have them for $700 so hes taken off $500 which is twice what we paid for the old heads. Im glad it wasnt a cracked block or a pin hole.

Here it is we got all 3 montes for $1500 got the title and he brought it for us on a roll back we tryed to pay him but he woudnt take any money. The car your looking at has hardly any rust exept for the top wich we have a perfect one to put on so not a issue and the fender has a little rust at the bottom but is very much fixable. just to let you guys know I was looking at a very large wasps nest... I used 2 cans of wasps and hornet spray and knocked off 4 nest they still managed to hold on and get to my house.

I have 4 of them 3 parts cars and one being restored. I never thought that would happen

we talked to one of my granddaddy's friends and he has a almost rust free 1972 Monte Carlo it had been restored and then left out side and water got under the vinyl top so the roof rusted and then water got in the car and rusted the floor. So the guy that owned the car got 2 parts cars one with a perfect roof the other has a good floor and trunk lid both of the parts cars have been wrecked but there's still use able parts on both of them. we might use the body off the complete Monte Carlo on my frame. Will let you know how it goes.