keith72monte

Thanks for the input Rob. There is a hole in the drivers door panel for a remote style mirror. It appears to be the original interior guessing because the build sheet has vin number on it, maybe they changed mirrors out, I will pull mirror and see. the door could have been replaced. I had 2 custom small block cars before, neither had the belt moulding on top of the doors, maybe they were removed at some time also. I will check to see if those were removed from screw holes on the inside.i,m guessing its not because the three holes for the sail panels emblems, the air ride leveler sound cool, but is it going to be worth putting it back together? how much do the air compressor and shocks cost to replace?i,m sure theres a better coil over shock or something that will make it handle better? If I can find time to bring it to the show,i will.

hello, I just picked up a monte carlo72 u code matching numbers. Seems it was ordered with the air leveling shocks. I only have part of the build sheet. I would like to know if that is a rare item for 72? it has the shock shield protectors and sway bar. the pictures show the level switch mounted to upper control arm. I am able to look behind vinyl top and see three holes in sail panel. I'm guessing the custom emblems have two extra holes, so there should be 5 holes for the emblems? trying to rule out if it is a custom. seems like a special order with air level shocks?

hey Donald, here are the brackets you have to get. Ask any questions, We are here to help.

this is what I bought in 2012, theres a lot more to offer now. Maybe I was sent the wrong base brackets? the sliders have three slots in front and back for height adjustments. if you want gm style oem brackets for conversion, then get some from ebay through goodmark, or any supplier. they have to be welded in. maybe some guys on here have pictures of there factory bucket cars, showing the correct bracket? Just order what procar says to install and see if it works, since you have the seats already.If things don't line up, just send it back and go with a different company. If things don't line up , have them email or mail you a return label, soo you don't have to pay return shipping. Not your fault they sold you the wrong item.

i bought the kit for 68 to 72 a body. maybe a universal base might work. the scat seats I bought had the 5 way slots, not like the touring model picture above.Much more padding on the ones Bill has. I will get a part number and ad to topic.

Cbolt, you didn't have to weld in brackets, because yours had factory buckets? the base for the procar bolted right onto the oem bucket seat mounts? no welding needed? things were not lining up for me. my good luck as always.

I have the procar scat seats. They aren't as comfortable as the factory seats. Not a lot of padding for long drives. If your a skinny person,(I am not) then they will be more comfortable. I also have to get out of the seat to slide it forward. if your under 225 pounds, then they should slide forward and back without having to get out of the seat.They have a upward angle in the front, that's ok when your close to the steering wheel , as you would be for racing. I put bath towels on the bottom , helps from cutting into the back of my legs on three hour drives to the beach, also keeps the seats clean once I get to the show.Fabric on those seats aren't easy to clean , don't spoil mustard or anything like that, doubt it would clean up . If your racing on a track, then they are better then stock seats. If your just cruising around to local shows or whatever, Your going to be better with factory seats. If you decide to go with racing seats and 5 point belts, you have to be careful, shoulder belts for racing are meant for cars with roll bars in them. Incase you roll the car, factory belts allow your body to slide downward. 5 points will hold you upright and roof will come down on your head.They make shoulder seat belts for street car, schroth brand , used in b&w,s road racing .they are pricey ,if you go with the electronic sensor mechanism. that allows for free movement when you want lean to go forward in seat without having to loosen belts, but meant to be used for a street car. For a cruiser to the car shows and doing some burn outs, just go with factory. I did it for the cost. Find a nice used set oem seats for around 400 and recover them. Plus now they have oem style covers with side support. They came out with that right after I had installed mine. If I only had one monte carlo, I would take the seats out. I bought oem style bucket seat brackets to weld in the floor, but the scat seat rails wouldn't line up and had to weld in the brackets differently.. my car was a bench seat, I bought the complete kit they sold, and also the oem style brackets from goodmark.. Maybe someone else with oem brackets can say there scat bolted right up to oem brackets? Look at the guys monte,s on here,with high horsepowered cars with different options then procar seats. new forum topic.. What seats do you have in your monte and do you race it on the track. I just seen a touring series by pro car that looks a lot more padded and side support .but no spots for 5 harness. There is my input on scat procar seats.

hey dan , where did you get yours from? what brand? or supplier?

hey scott, how long ago did you buy yours? Please everyone let us know when they bought their metal inners. I know i got a bad set of dynacorn, but AMD wasn't one hole off either. AMD was off 6 holes on passenger and 4 holes on drivers. Time to get alittle more investigation on this subject lol i bought the dynacorn year and half ago. #cv3006r 68-72 inner fender RH lot# 1104AQ , I bought the AMD a month ago.# AMD 1264 71-72 chevelle ft inr GM14036cl AMD inner was thicker metal. Both said made in taiwan. Now that i am done with my build, I can find more time to put more input on these parts on here.Give back to the community so to speak lol

Glad to see someone say had to work a few holes lol, I have a feeling my passenger fender maybe had alittle bit of a bow in it to not line up as good as the drivers side. But the two lower big holes for the lower brace was not close and drilled new holes. had to ream out the two top holes some , in order for the inner well to slide over alittle to be able to get a screw hole lined up. after all that nightmare, it seems to have made a pinch in the edge of my fender, but the moulding will cover that up, hopefully.... my other monte is low mileage straight body. i will give the sherman ones a shot on that car. If i run into a problem i will deff update this post and return them under 30 days or whatever. i,m into metal inner for 450 plus shipping, so if you have doubts, then buy plastic ones people have been saying fit like a glove.mine fit like a glove that was too small for my hand.

hey big tank, how long ago did you order yours? seems like when someone says theirs fit, i end up with something differnt lol must be my car is 72 special lol because tawain inner fenders didnt fit, made in tawain chrome remote mirror didn't fit , hooker headers didn't fit. ect... i have another monte to build, it would be nice to have metal inners that aren't made in tawain. let me know the part number and how long ago you got them, i will get a set for my other car to see how they fit. Thanks for the info. i see part number 6264843 and 3992604 fender liner? thats the one? did it say made in china or usa when you got them in?

I ordered a pair from ausley chevelle a year or two ago, I went to put them on and 6 holes would not line up, spent 4 to 6 hours redrilling, because i could not send them back. They we re made by dynacorn. Another member bought his 10 years ago and they fit right from ausley. I bought a pair from leo last month.He said they we re made in canada and from amd company. 4 holes we re off but they fitted good enough not to send back. On the bubble wrapping it said made in tawian. Only good part i got from tawain was the dii review mirror and sun visor supports. Rest of the tawian and china stuff is junk.I did a ground up restoration last two years and just stay away from tawian parts when you can.If i did it over i would just by the plastic inners because everyone on here is happy with those.I wasn't happy redrilling and having to remount both inners about 30 times to ream out holes and redrill spots that we re not even close. Live and learn. By oem nos if you can.I must of just gotten bad ones or something...

Ok i,m getting my pulleys together, and i find there are a single groove pulley and double for the water pump. I have a small block with air conditioning. i do not have a emission air pump. i see in the assembly manual that cars with air pump use a double groove water pump. I was told by a well know restorer that it should be a double groove pulley. I can see that would be better if the alternator belt was thrown, that the water pump would still operate.I just don't remeber ever seeing a double pulley on any of my montes.But when comparing the two pulleys i have, the single seems to line up alittle better.Since i only see in the assembly manual a single pulley being used, i am going to have to go with that. anyone have a double pulley on their water pump and is a oem setup without a air pump? thanks for any info

the open gasket i got from the parts place with the mirror kit works fine with my old remote mirror, just not the new one.i will send my old mirror out and rechrome.If someone knows of a place that sells oem gaskets i would buy a few.

If you bought from ausley and mirror came in small white box. You might want to check the angle with out remote mirror if you have one. I just sent two back to ausley. Let me know how yours worked out, thanks

yeah i bought one from parts place twice cause they we;re on back order for a year, they sent one gasket, then another open gasket, neither worked. i order from ausley both drivers and passenger side. i got the same problem with their mirrors. i took out my old remote mirror and the open gasket worked correct for old mirror. If someone knows where to buy a correct mirror right now, let me know. i know another member on here that had bought a drivers from ausley in the past and they worked fine. but whoever the maker is, they have the angle off. i took pictures of old and new and it clearly shows the angle way off on new mirrors, guess i have to rechrome my old mirror to get my car on the road. Kindof gave up on passenger side install until i find the correct angled one. shipping is starting to add up on this 4 times ordered.

Thanks for the info. I think your idea is the right one. Great looking car you have. awesome quote on the thong lol

Hey all the guru's out there.Here is the 10k question of the year lol I bought and installed a ecc 72 gas tank. I bought the replacement vapor lines,but have not installed.Now i realize it would be nice to not have the extra lines along the fenderwell and the hose running acros to the pcv valve to carb.But i do not want any fume smell because my rec room door goes out into the garage. I have seen people say cap off vents and use vented gas cap. I could easily just order a 1970 tank and install that because i havent put any gas in,and i have another monte i will put back to stock when i restore that car or sell it off lol, but doesn't gas fumes float out of the 1970 vented cap? i don't want any smell at all.because garage is attached to tiny house and i leave the door open to heat and ac my garage lol i have seen people suggest using a lawn mower air filter on the end of tube that should go to canister. I have seen people say use a part they sell on www.396,com for a 1969 chevelle, small plastic piece that fits onto the vent tube that goes to front canister. I have my car looking super clean under the hood and just think not having the hoses hanging around would make it more of a show car. Let me know what has worked for you. There is a reward for the best answer lol and no it is not 10k lol

buyers beware. i have bought two remote mirrors from the parts place and ausley chevelle. The repo comes from the same maker. The repo is way off angle and i tried both gaslets they all sent me. Now i am on the search for a show quality mirror, or have my old one rechromed. Anyone on here know of some answer to that?

yeah well i am gonna hang out and watch you paint them so i can learn how to use a paint gun lol so be ready sunday, its gonna be 65 degrees here

Yeah i spent alot of time looking up who has the best prices on all the parts.I had run across the resource list along time ago. Some of these companies websites need to be made better. I know i have saved thousands shopping for the best price, and saved hundreds on the free shipping from opgi.I am planning on coming the the eastern meet.My car should be on the road after 10 years sitting in the garage lol

yeah i know i forgot ausley, how could i with all the money i spent with them lol

Hey everyone, I have searched around alot for companies that carry monte parts in the last two years. I figured i would share my info to help out anyone who is starting to restore a monte. hopefully others will chime in and i will learn of new places myself. I know theres plenty of vendors that carry chevelle parts, but few that have specific listings for montes. First company on the list of vendors is Koni's Klassics in michigan. Leo is a good guy for parts and info. I don't know of another company that is into restoring monte carlos like his.If anyone knows of someone that sells used monte parts, throw some names out there. Most people know of year one, and opgi. Opgi website is good cause for a first timer they let you know some basic info about the part. Like where it is located and what it is made for. The Parts place is another good place to get parts for. Classic muscle i recently found that has a very nicely laid out website and customer service has been good. Champion chevelle is one place that has good prices on parts.Everyone knows about Ebay ofcourse. i have bought several things from a company on ebay called south west muscle and classics. they seem to have a good amount of knowledge on montes and what i have gotten in used parts have been real happy with.Jared richey on this website has a ton of parts also.I am all about supporting the smaller guys. Sometimes you have to go with whomever has what you need. I try to stay away from china parts, but that seems to be a problem more and more.

Hey everyone. Just wondering what everyone with air conditioning have done when replacing the air compressor.I have looked at buying a new replacment, ac delco only has rebuilt ones on the market. Original ac delco is part 15-2227 for the monte.I see there are other numbers that would interchange, like 15-2225 but neither is that one avalable. i see a replacment #15-22255 that looks differnt in appearance. I would like a new compressor,but looks like a ac delco is gonna be a remanufactured #15-21681. Maybe i should go with a 4 seasons new for $373. what is the answer to wanting to buy a new compressor. Doesnt have to be oem perfect, but i would like it to look the same as oem.Been surfing online for a week, Ebay seller said they had the right numbered ac delco, but it came in wrong of course. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.I have 4 cans of r-12 to charge my system, so i,m gonna go r-12 and all oem setup. Just missing the replacement compressor and hoses to make it complete. Anyone have a good answer ???

Well after weeks of looking over all the options.S-10 option looked good at first, but then i didn;t want junk yard parts on my nice car,but if your car is all rusty underneath, then i guess it will match,if you want to get used rusty parts,make sure you get a tetanus shot before handleing someone elses rust junk. Don;t bother buying used axle plates when rockauto sells them new for $150 a pair.Buying new parts came out to over 325. piecing missing parts together and just feeling like its a half mass way of doing a job right.After i,m into something for 325+, i want to know i,m going to have a correct setup. I see a few companies that offer USA made parts.1) moser axle offers two rear disk kits,both single piston calipers, one with out the parking brake for 360.00. other kit has parking brake and cleaner looking axle plates for 460.00.Next i found baer brakes offer a kit for 595.00 with slotted rotor and single piston caliper.Another company is inline tube kit that is single piston caliper and cost is 600.00. Last setup is willwood.Wilwood offers a 4 piston caliper and internal parking brake built into the axle plate cost is 650.00 on summit racing.Now lets give this some serious , life or death thoughts. Are we all doing the speed limits with our classic v-8 , heavy metal tanks?Answer: Not. Now do we want to put our lives in the hands of a sweat shop built 349.00 china made brakes? Answer? your pick. I have $10,000 in my car. I,m not cutting corners with china made brakes. I don't race my car on a track, but i like to make a dent under the gas petal in my floorpan once and awhile.So why jerk around with brakes.I am either going with moser $460.00 kit or wilwood.Once i start looking at over 500 bucks for rear disk,i am going to have to go with a 4 piston caliper.One last thought to put in everyones head.I spoke to a race instrutor recently. He told me in the last ten years of being at the road course tracks, he has only seen two deaths on the track.He said both wrecks we're in the first turn and the front rotors failed.I looked on corvette forum and seen guys talking about buying 35 dollar rotors cause they go through rotors on a weekend.Not alot of rotor failures are happening ofcourse,but i would want the best rotor if i am doing 100+ through a turn.OK so does that cover rear disk brakes 101.Everone has dumped tons of money in their car on here, so put the best USA made brakes you can buy. I know about china rotors and how they have taken over the market,But damn people, don't put china crap on your classic all american made car.You have a option to not buy china junk.Either keep your drums on the rear, or buy top quality rear disk brakes.Thanks for everyones input on this. My lesson has been learned.