Mike Brichta

Thanks Rob!! I always try to help (if I can) especially when I've been down a similar road myself. Why not pass the knowledge along?

I've had pretty good luck just taking the motors apart and cleaning them. I've found that the grease in the motors gets really thick over the years and I always replace it with new grease. It always helps to clean the brushes and armature also. You may also want to check that you are getting a full 12 volts at the motor. I've had a switch that had a corroded connection inside and was not supplying the full charge at the motor. Just some ideas. I have 4 cars with power windows (3 Montes and 1 El Camino) and I never had to purchase a new motor. Good luck!! Mike

Now why couldn't they all do that and save us a lot of time searching for one? Nice find and in excellent condition.

Hey Abe, The set that I purchased was $65 with free shipping. I also did some shopping around and thought that was the best price I could find. When I said that "I did all of the work from the rear of the car" I meant that I was able to install both rods while standing outside of the trunk at the rear bumper. I just opened the trunk and leaned in to install the rods. Also, I tried to upload my videos to Photobucket but I guess they are too large because it gets to 90% and then stops. I tried it several times from 2 different computers without any success. If you think pictures would help I can take some of the installed springs and post them instead. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Abe, Well I finally got around to installing my new trunk torsion rods. Here is an overview of what I learned: - You do not have to empty everything out of your trunk like I did. I did all of the work from the rear of the car. - There is a LEFT and RIGHT side torsion rod so I would recommend that you figure out which one goes where before you start. - Don't take the 2nd original one out until you replace the first one. You can use it as a reference if needed. - The only tools needed are a light and a (2) Vise Grips. - Use one Vise Grip to hold the trunk lid open while you are working. The 2nd one will be used when applying tension to the rod at the end. - When you install the rod, insert the smaller end in the bracket first, then get the larger end in place and then apply tension to the smaller end last. - It took about 20 minutes to install the first rod (because I had to figure it out first) and then about 10 minutes to do the second rod. - The aftermarket rods do not have as much spring in them as the original so you may have to use the "highest tension" slot when installing. Hope this helps. I made some videos of the process but have not had time to post them yet. Good luck!! Mike

Hey Abe, I had one of mine break a few months ago and I finally decided to replace it. I ordered a replacement set and got them just this week. Here is a link to the ones I purchased: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201512881812?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I've never replaced them before in any car so this will be my first go at it. I will probably give it a try in the next few days or so. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks!! Mike

I have used several brands of seat covers over the years and in my opinion the Legendary covers are the best. They may cost a little more but the quality is exceptional and they have a lifetime warranty. Mike

Rock Auto has them. ACDELCO 45J0016 {#88913889} Professional Front Upper; Offset Shaft Kit; Provides Additional Positive Camber Adjustment ($ 40.79) MOOG K5250 {#3849412, 396678} Problem Solver Problem Solver; Control Arm Shaft Front Upper; Offset Shaft Kit; Provides Additional Positive(+) Camber Adjustment ($ 37.79) Mike

I believe the speed nuts that hold the "Z" corner pieces in place are accessed via the trunk. I would not remove the sail panels because I don't think you will gain anything by doing that. Plus they are difficult to put back because the old style fasteners break easily. Mike

Hey Aaron, I've never done what you are trying but if I were I would start by using the Halo Moldings as a guide as to where the stud would go. I'm thinking if you laid out all of the pieces on the roof (after putting some tape down) you could trace both sides of the moldings and you would have a pretty good idea of where they need to go. Start with the (2) chrome back corners first since they are held on by studs and speed nuts and don't have a lot of flexibility as to where they go. I have a 70 with halo trim that I could take pictures of if you need some. Just let me know. I also have some halo trim if that helps. Mike

I believe Procharger has carb units for both big block and small block chevy engines.

Hey Jason, I'm not sure why I wouldn't be able to receive any new messages. Must have something to do with the new website. Do I need to do something to get this to work? Maybe someone will know what's wrong and can help us out. The hot cam swap worked great. I've been driving the car on and off since the swap and probably have about 400 miles on it so far. The engine definitely sounds different and in the mid and high rpm range it is really takes off. I haven't pushed it too hard yet but when I needed some extra power it seemed to have plenty. With a 3.45 posi rear, the car really is quick and drives like a much small lighter vehicle. I'm considering putting in a tach to see what rpm's I am hitting when driving more aggressively later on. I liked it so much that I just ordered a second kit for my other zz4 Monte. The parts should be here tomorrow and I might get started this weekend with the swap. I'm curious to see how the other Monte drives after the swap because that one has a 2.73 posi rear. I really liked the difference and would recommend it to anyone else. Thanks!! Mike

If Leo doesn't have what you need let me know. I think I have set laying around somewhere. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Patrick, Thanks for your thoughts. Yes I believe it is burning oil because it smokes and smells differently then oil on the exhaust. I did not think of taking a compression test. That might be a good idea anyway before I remove it from the car. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Jason, Just as an update, I have the new zz4 engine with Hot Cam just about ready to go. It is now time to make a decision about the current engine that is using oil. I was wondering if you were going to be around sometime this weekend so I could stop by with the car and get your opinion on the engine. With my limited engine oil burning experience I am guessing it would be caused by one or more of these areas: - Valve seals (I've replaced them twice already) - Valve issues (maybe some new heads) - Rings (engine rebuild) I would at least like to have maybe an idea of what might fix the problem before I remove it from the car in case I decide fix it and use it in something else later on. Once I remove it then no one can hear and see it running. Also, is it possible to check a few of the valves to see if they have any play in them that would cause the oil burning issue? I could remove the rocker and springs if that would make sense. Any suggestions/input are welcome. Thanks!! Mike

I'm not sure how much it actually uses since I don't drive it regularly. It seems to smoke all of the time but a lot more when it is hot and the rpm's are higher. I can smell oil burning pretty much any time the motor is running. Does that help any? Maybe I could drive it over for you to look at some time and see what you think. I'm in no hurry since the other engine will not be ready for a few more weeks at least.

I'm putting it in a Blue 70 since the motor in it now is an older rebuild that is starting to burn oil. Do you rebuild engines? I can't stop the engine from burning oil. I already tried replacing the valve seals and am now thinking it is the rings.

You've been a great help already!! Thanks for the offer. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks!! Mike

It's always good to know a good Chevy mechanic in the area. Is your shop over around 4th street and Emmaus Ave.? What is the name of your shop?

Burn outs are always welcomed on Vera Cruz Road ...

Hey Jason, I don't see any warnings or mention of the engine being a vortec block and having to use a water pump with a by-pass so I'm assuming that it won't be an issue. What did you do at Scott Chevy? Were you a mechanic? Thanks!! Mike

Hey Jason, Thanks!! That is all great info that I need. I think I will just re-use the plastic timing cover and press the cam pin in as you suggest. That will save me some $$ also. If I think of any other questions I will let you know. Sooner or later we should meet up. I live on Vera Cruz Rd (a mile from Lanark Rd) which makes us just 5 minutes apart. Small world. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Jason, I just remembered another question. Can I re-use the original valve covers or do I need to get taller ones because of the roller rockers? Thanks!! Mike

Hey Jason, I did remember reading something about the cam pin and was going to wait until I got it apart to compare the new and old cam to see what I need to do. I will have to make a note of it. Did you re-use the timing cover (original plastic on) or just purchase a replacement one? It says something like "Replace after being serviced" on it. I would rather just purchase a metal one and replace it since I don't have a cam sensor anyway. I'm thinking that maybe the aftermarket cover will clear the cam pin. I didn't actually work at Scott Chevy but spent a lot of time there. My buddy (Curt Miller) worked there for many years and we worked on many projects together before he moved out to the Fleetwood area. I still own his 72 Monte Custom. Mike

Hey Jason, Thanks for the response. That sounds like a nice fit for my engine. I'm not looking to race the car but I do want it to move when needed. Since you have already done this before do you have any insights/suggestions/advice before I order parts? Where in Allentown are you located? Do you ever go to the Macungie Cruises? Sounds like we should get together sometime. Thanks!! Mike