Mike Brichta
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Posts posted by Mike Brichta
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Hey Andy,
Thanks for the info. I'm just not sure what all else would be needed to make the conversion. Since this guy was local and everything was included it seemed like a good opportunity for a "first time" 4 speed guy like me to get everything all in one deal. Soemtimes its all of the little pieces that really start to add up fast.
Mike
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I just got an email back from the guy and he already sold it for $1200. That would sound like a great price to me and he was local so shipping would not come into play. Oh well. Maybe next time.
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A local guy has a 71 chevelle with an m20 4 speed setup and he wants to convert to an automatic trans. He says it was all rebuilt 1500 miles ago and everything needed to convert to a 4 speed is included. Anyone know what a fair offer would be for this?
Thanks!!
Mike
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Well I tried the original starter on the zz350 engine last night and the starter was not close to engaging the flexplate so I am guessing that the zz350 153 tooth flexplate is smaller in diameter then the original 350 168 tooth one. So for now I will have to put back the "new" starter and think of something else.
Thanks for all of the replies to my posting. As usual you guys are always greatly helpful and appreciated.
Mike
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Hey Bob,
That sounds like something I should check into also since I know that I did not use any shims when installing the starter. The engine turns over fast enough to start but sounds sluggish and not normal. If that doesn't work then maybe I will call my local Chevy dealer and see if they will replace it under the warranty.
Thanks for the reply !!!!
Mike
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I recently purchased a GMPP zz350 engine and have been driving it for a few months now. From the first day I installed it the starter sort of sounded weak to me. It is a brand new GM light weight starter that came with the engine package. The instructions say it can be used with any 152 tooth flexplate which is what I am assuming I have on the engine.
Over the past week or so I have noticed that it keeps sounding weaker every time I start the engine. I have already checked the battery, battery cables, solenoid wire, connections, etc. and all are working perfectly.
My question is: Do I need a special 152-tooth flywheel starter or will any Chevy starter work? I looked on Summit's website and they list the same starter for 152 tooth and 168 tooth flexplates. I just want to double-check before I mess up a new flexplate.
Thanks!!
Mike
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Update on the "vibration" issue
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I picked up my driveshaft on Saturday morning and the guy told me he tested the driveshaft with the U-joints and front yoke and found the problem to be in the rear U-joint. He said the driveshaft is fine but the rear U-joint spring locks were too narrow. That didn't make any sense to me until I looked at the U-joint and the spring locks. The U-joint was replaced and the joint itself is fine but it has the "inner spring locks" and the locks themselves had lots of play in the slots of the caps. I thought they were all the same thickness but apparently not. He said he didn't have any of the older thicker ones but I was able to find some thicker ones in my "extra parts bin" and that fixed the problem.
I'm not sure why the ones on the U-joint were not the correct thickness. Maybe the U-joint came with the wrong ones?
Has anyone else experienced this problem? I haven't.
Anyway, all is good again. It cost me $45 to find and correct the problem. I will be sure I get the correct thickness spring locks the next time I purchase a new U-joint.
Mike
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Hey James,
I finally got around to checking out the driveshaft for you. Somewhere along the line I removed the TH400 yoke and front U-joint but since you already have the yoke you probably didn't need it anyway. Also, since you are running a 10-bolt and mine is from a 12-bolt I believe the rear U-joint will be different so the rear U-joint won't help you either. I measured the length of the driveshaft and it comes out to be 54 1/2" from center to center. I did some searching in the FGMCC archives and I believe a small block with a TH350 and 10-bolt calls for a driveshaft length of 55 1/2". Since I already know that the TH400 length is shorter than the TH350 by about an inch I think you should be ok with this one. It would probably be best if you have the th400 in your car and take a measurement just to be sure. I'd hate to ship you this one and find out it doesn't work for you. Any way to measure what you need or do you just want to take a chance that mine will be ok?
Thanks!!
Mike
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Thanks for the great ideas!!
Mike
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Hey James,
Does your car have a 10-bolt rear or a 12-bolt. I think the U-joints will be different depending on what you have. Any idea of how to ship a driveshaft? I won't be able to get to it until the weekend because things are really busy right now.
Thanks!!
Mike
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Hey James,
I have a brand new TH400 driveshaft in the garage with new U-joints and yoke. I had it made for my 72 when I was running a TH400. It now has a th350. But you should probably send me the exact length you are looking for so you know it will fit ok. Let me know if interested.
Mike
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I dropped the driveshaft off on Saturday morning but they won't get to check it until sometime this week. I won't be able to pick it up until next Saturday anyway. I remember years ago I was putting a TH400 into a car that previously had a TH350 and took the driveshaft to the same place to have it shortened. The guy called me back and said the driveshaft was bent and could not be balanced. I never had problems with the driveshaft before but they made me a new one and all was ok. Is it possible for these things to just go bad after a long time?
Mike
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You can always use a second 2bbl carb to learn on and have for extra parts. When I rebuilt my first 4bbl I picked up a few "extra" carbs in case I had a question as to how things go back together or if I needed extra parts. Rebuilding them is not that bad, just takes some patience. I have several extra 2bbl carbs collecting dust in the attic. Let me know if you are interested.
Thanks!!
Mike
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I don't race my cars but have spoken to more than one person who does race that says the 10-bolts are just as strong as the 12-bolts and are preferred because the axels are bolted in and don't have C-clips. Anyway, that's what I was told.
Mike
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I looked at the drive shaft again last night and don't see anything missing as far as weights are concerned. U-joints are only a few years old and not many miles. They move freely.
I also checked the suspension (already rebuilt) and everything else I could think of to check. So far, nothing conclusive.
I wanted to switch out the driveshaft last night but the spare one I have is different because one is for a 12 bolt and one is for a 10 bolt. The U-joints are different sizes.
I won't start anything else until I get the driveshaft checked.
I will post an update once I get it checked.
Mike
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All great suggestion guys!! I will make a list and start checking these things tonight.
I think I already converted all of my crossmembers to Chevelle ones years ago but I will check to make sure.
I know I already checked to see if the pinion nut was tight and it was. I did not check for front to back play but will check tonight.
Keep the ideas coming !! I want to fix this thing. It is driving me crazy and feels really unsafe when driving fast.
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The exhaust is about 4 years old and appears to be nice and tight. All of the bushings are also around 4 years old and since I hardly drive the car they should be good also but I will check to be sure. It sort of has me baffled for now. Everything has been replaced at one time or another and looks good.
Anyone have any rear end rebuilding experience? How can I check to see if the posi is shimmed correctly? What happens if it is too loose or too tight?
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Hey Jim,
Yes one of the first things I tried was switching out all 4 wheels and tires with a known good set. Tonight I will switch out the driveshaft and test drive again. I was considering replacing the rear axel bearings but when they go bad they usually rumble all of the time not just a 60 mph. I will also check the fluid level and maybe pull the rear cover off and look for problems.
If all else fails I will have to take the rear to get checked but I know they will want to replace everything and I'm not sure I want to spend $1200 to rebuild a 10-bolt rear.
Thanks!!
Mike
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I have lately developed a rather severe vibration which seems to be coming from the rear of the car since I do not feel the vibration in the steering wheel. The car runs great with no issues until I get to around 60 mph then it vibrates so much that the rear view mirror is blurry. Obviously I would like to figure out what is causing the issue but I'm not sure where to start. I have already pulled the driveshaft and rear wheels but have found no problems. I have even switched all 4 wheels and tires but it is still there. In the next few days I will try another driveshaft.
The car has a BOP 10-bolt rear and I installed a new 3.55 posi unit a few years ago. I am wondering if the gear lash could now be the issue. Would the vibration indicate the gears are too loose or too tight?
Any other suggestion/ideas?
Thanks in advance!!
Mike
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No. The rear is a BOP rear so it doesn't have C-clips. Apparently in 1970 they ran out of Chevy rears for a time and used BOP rears instead. I actually prefer the bolt-in axles over the C-clips.
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I would like to replace both rear wheel bearings in my 70 monte and have a few questions before I start. It is a 70 BOP 10-bolt Posi 3.55 rear. Here are my questions:
- Since the axels are bolted in (not C-clips) do I have to remove the rear cover? I'm guessing NO.
- Do I have to remove all of the brake stuff before I can slide out the axel? I'm guessing YES.
- Is the bearing pressed onto the axel? I'm guessing YES.
- Is there an oil seal somewhere around the bearing? If so, what kind is it so I can order one with the bearings?
- Are both axels the same or is there a right and left side axel?
Thanks!!
Mike
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Hey Dennis,
I was looking at those too. What size(s) did you end up getting?
Thanks!!
Mike
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Well, I've just about given up on the BF Goodrich white raised lettered tires that most of us have been using for years. The last couple of sets that I purchased always developed a problem before the tread was worn out. One tire broke a tread inside and now around one has caused a severe vibration in the rear when I get to around 60 mph. I always liked the look of the white letters but I've noticed lots of cars at shows with black walls and they look pretty good.
What would be a good brand of tire to use on a monte with 15x7 rally wheels that won't have any problems?
Thanks!!
Mike
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Most of the GM Performance Small Block Crate engines come with an "Accessory Drive Kit" (PN 12497698) which costs around $800. However, the AC Compressor and Alternator are on the opposite sides of our current engines. In addition I am guessing that the AC hoses, Power Steering Hoses and Alternator wiring would have to be redone or custom to use the serpentine belt setup. Am I missing something? I am considering using a ZZ4 350 in my 70 Monte (PN 19201330).
GM says you have to purchase the engine with the kit included. I guess they want you to just throw it away?
My questions are:
- Are these motors meant for "older" Small Block applications?
- Has anyone dealt with this issue on their car?
Thanks!!
Mike
What is a M20 4 speed setup worth?
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
Holly crap!! That is a lot to have to switch. This is a great shopping list if I ever consider switching again. Thanks for sharing. I suspected there were lots of "little" things that I wasn't aware of. Thanks again for the list!!
Mike