Mike Brichta

March 12, 2007

Ok guys. You got me into this, now help get me out.

Here is the story: I have a 70 monte that has a TH350 from a 72 custom, which has the two-bolt pattern housing (fits Chevy & BOP) blocks. The 72 custom had a 2.73 rear in it and the speedo worked great. I now have the trans in a 70 monte with a 3.55 rear rear in it. I have to change drive and/or driven gears to make the speedo work correctly again.

Before: 2.73 gear ratio, green 17 tooth drive gear, 37 tooth red driven gear

Now: 3.55 gear ratio

Question: what drive and/or driven gears do I need?

HELP!! I am getting all sorts of answers from TCI and local Chevy dealers. Is this a Chevy tail housing or not? What do I need to change and to what?

I have posted pics at:

http://groups.msn.com/FGMCCPhotos/mikesmontes.msnw?Page=Last

THANKS!!

Mike

March 3, 2007

I'm sure someone has dealt with this question before but I have never done this myself.

I recently changed my rear gears from 2.73 to 3.55 and now I need to change the trans gear to make the speedo look somewhat correct.

Questions:

1) Do I have to pull the tailshaft to switch the gears?

2) How many teeth does the new gear have to have?

3) Are the TH350 gears and the TH400 gears the same?

The reason I am asking some of these questions is because I have a new trans gear for a TH400 that has 38 teeth. It is brand new in the box and was purchased years ago to address the same issue in a TH400 but was never used. Maybe I can use this one?

Thanks,

Mike

February 24, 2007

Hi Tony,

You are correct. There are lots of GM cars that use the same crossmember (GM A-body). Also, the TH350 and TH400 use the same crossmember. The monte crossmembers had crossmembers that used rubber mounts and special brackets at the ends. A lot of these are rusted like yours because they seem to trap the water and rust out faster. The Chevelle crossmembers have two bolt holes at the ends and just bolt directly to the frame without using rubbers.

I switched a couple of mine to Chevelle types because it is hard to find good rubbers and brackets for the monte type. I see these all of the time at swap meets for around $30-$40. They are on ebay from time to time. I'm sure if you ask around someone will have a good used one for sale.

Mike

January 23, 2007

The brighter dash bulbs that go into the printed circuit are: Sylvania 2825

If I remember correctly, the guage cluster has about 18 bulbs in total. You only need to replace the 11 "background" bulbs. I did not replace:

2 - Turn signals (r and l)

1 - High Beam

1 - Brake Light

1 - Oil

1 - Gen

1 - Alt

Also, the Heater/AC panel uses a different type of bulb. It is Sylvania 3893.

Good luck!!

Mike

January 23, 2007

Hi CB,

Thanks for sharing your info. The Tach looks great and I am definitely considering doing one of mine.

If you want to address the dim lighting problem, here is what you will need to consider:

1) Replace the standard 3amp bulbs with 5amp bulbs (cost about $20)

2) Convert the standard externally regulated charging system with a newer high output internally regulated one. (cost about $120)

I have done both of these and the results were tremendous. I also have instructions and documentation on both if you (or anyone) is interested.

Mike

November 14, 2006

Hi Kelvin,

If you are feeling real adventurous, you might want to consider rebuilding the transmission yourself. Now I know what you are thinking. This will be too difficult and I've never done one myself. These were my concerns when I rebuilt mine last year. I decided to just go ahead and give it a shot. I bought a book for around $20 that was excellent. I also located several trans parts shops on the internet with all of the parts you might need. To make a long story short, it cost me $20 for the book and about $200 for all new performance parts with a shift kit. It took me several months to get it all done but I was not in a rush because it was kind of a winter project anyway. I had a great time and learned an awful lot. Anyway, if you decide to consider it let me know. I can suggest a great book with lots of good instruction and pictures, I have lots of self-taken notes and pictures and I can let you know who to contact for parts. Good luck.

Mike

September 25, 2006

Hi Mike,

I did this a few years back and I will try to list all of the things that I needed to switch/purchase:

1) TH400 trans will bolt up to engine without any problems assuming it is a TH400 with a chevy housing.

2) I needed to purchase a TH400 yolk for the driveshaft. TH350 is different.

3) I needed to shorten the driveshaft about a inch or two.

4) I needed to purchase a "kickdown" setup since the TH400 downshifts using a switch instead of a detent cable. The setup has a lever part and an electronic switch for downshifting. You can simple remove the detent cable from the engine compartment.

5) I needed to make two wires for the downshift switch. One goes from the downshift switch by the gas pedal to the "IGN" post on the fuse block (to supple current to the switch) and the other goes from the switch to the transmission downshift switch on the transmission.

6) I had to move the trans crossmember back to the next set of holes on the frame since it needs to bolt back further than the TH350.

There may be some other minor things to deal with but that's pretty much it.

Mike

September 12, 2006

You guys are truly the greatest. I did some checking last night and it turned out to be a faulty kick-down switch. So I guess I will not have a kick down until I find another switch.

THANKS!!!!

Mike

September 10, 2006

I have a 72 monte with a th400 trans and console. I decided to take the car out today for a drive before the weather gets bad and when I pulled out of the driveway and drove down the road, the trans would not shift out of first gear.

I have already checked the trans fluid, shifter and linkage. All looked and worked fine. I just had the car out a few weeks ago and it worked great. The trans was rebuild about 8 years ago and has less than 10,000 miles on it.

Before I start to panic and tear the whole thing apart, does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be causing the problem?

Thanks,

Mike

August 11, 2006

Hi Bob,

I'm not sure if 72 were any different from any other first generation monte, or for that matter any GM a-body cars of that time. I do know that there were at least two types of belts used. There was the standard kind with plastic, colored buckles. then there were the deluxe kind with stainless brushed buckles. Other than that, I don't know of any other choices. Hope that helps.

Mike

May 10, 2006

Hey Jim,

I would be interested, so I sent you an email.

Thanks!!

Mike

April 27, 2006

Hi Tom,

If you decide that you don't want to use the 1" moldings, I might be interested in buying them from you.

Thanks,

Mike

February 26, 2006

Yes, I saw that pic on the website, but it doesn't show enough detail of the horn button section to answer my questions. I have the "flat style" that you refer to, not the 4 spoke wheel. Do you have that type and can you post some more detailed pics?

Thanks,

Mike

February 26, 2006

I finally managed to find a 72 Custom Steering Wheel and was wondering if anyone out there had some good pics of one so I can see what it is supposed to look like. I have only ever seen one on a monte and it was last year at Carlisle PA (Eastern Meet). I am particularly interested in the horn button. I looked at the pic in the "Tech Section" but could not see the answers to some of my questions. Does the horn button have a silver line around the edge? Is the horn button supposed to be raised along the lower edge? Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

January 4, 2006

Hi Nick,

I've converted four montes to buckets over the past 10 years. You can expect to pay about the following:

Bucket seats (good rebuildable cores) - $200+

Seat Covers - $225

Console - $350+

Misc Parts - $ 50

I would guess that a few of these estimates may be a little higher these days. I also did all of the work myself. This also does not include changing over the carpets, steering column or dash cluster.

Hope this helps,

Mike

December 25, 2005

If you are trying to remove the dash cluster, here are the steps that I use:

Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.

Remove the screw and knob that holds the clock adjuster to the stem of the clock.

Remove the dash pad.

Remove the left speaker if you have a stereo dash pad.

Remove the underside of the steering wheel pieces.

Drop the steering column. Will have to remove the shift indicator screw.

Remove the headlight knob/shaft from the headlight switch.

Remove the threaded nut that holds the headlight switch to the cluster.

Remove two bolts that hold dash to firewall. One is on left corner of dash. Other is

in the middle of the dash by the windshield. This will give you some clearance.

Remove the two plastic tabs that hold the dash wiring harness to the cluster (at the top).

Unplug the dash wiring harness plug from the cluster that goes into the printed circuit.

Unplug the wire that attaches to the clock.

Disconnect the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer.

Remove the 7 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. There will be three across the

top, one on each side and two on the bottom on each side of the steering column.

They are ¼” screws.

While pulling the dash forward for clearance, work the cluster out of the top of the dash.

Be careful not to scuff the front of the cluster.

Hope that helps,

Mike

December 15, 2005

As of 1:46 pm, I still didn't get anything. What is it that you are trying to send? Is it a word document, .jpg, etc.? If you are sending it as an attachment, what is the file extension of the attachment?

Mike

December 15, 2005

Hi Steve.

My personal email is "packard36@juno.com"

My work email is "brichmics@bethlehem-pa.gov"

Thanks for all of your help !!!

Mike

December 13, 2005

Hi Steve,

You wouldn't happen to have a copy of that issue on Clock Repair around, do you? I would love to get a copy of that article. I got my clock to work, but am curious about "the correct method" of fixing it. I'm not sure that massive doses of oil, an air hose, electrical shocks and a ball-peen hammer are the correct method of repair.

Thanks,

Mike

December 12, 2005

Hi Rich,

I'll make you a deal. You tell me how to fix my clocks and I'll give you detailed steps on the best way to get the clock out. I'll have lots of practice once I get them all fixed. I'll also send you some pics via email.

Mike

December 12, 2005

Hi Rich,

First of all, I made a mistake in regards to step 6 about the headlight switch. Instead you should removed the headlight knob/shaft piece from the front of the dash and then remove the threaded nut from the front of the headlight switch and then just push the switch through the instrument cluster and leave connected to the harness, but push off to the side.

Secondly, if you are considering doing all of this just to get the clock out, I would then say, just take the clock out of the instrument cluster and save yourself lots of time. You will have to remove a few bulbs, move back the printed circuit, and take out three small screws, but I think you will be able to get to these without any problems. By the way, there is one wire on the back of the clock. If you need some pics, let me know.

Also, I am looking at the clock unit that I took out of my instrument cluster and wondering how to get the hands off of the clock. Do they just pull off? Is that the way to get inside to the contacts?

Thanks,

Mike

December 12, 2005

Hi Rich,

I've only taken the instrument cluster out a few times and I am by no means an expert in this area, but here is kind of what I did:

1) I took the dash pad off because I removed the cluster out of the top of the dash.

2) I removed some of the "under dash" pieces around the steering column, but I don't think I lowered the steering column. If you do, it's only a few nuts anyway. I did this so I would have easier access to some of the screws that hold the cluster in.

3) You will have to remove the screw that controls the "shift indicator" pointer and slide off the piece of metal that holds the wire to the indicator. If you don;t know what I mean, I will give you more details.

4) I loosened some of the screws/nuts/bolts that hold the entire dash assembly to the firewall of the car. I did this in order to gain some clearance in order to lift the instrument cluster out.

5) I unplugged the plug in the wiring harness that connects to the printed circuit.

6) I unplugged the plug in the wiring harness that connects to the headlight switch.

7) There may be a wire on the back of the clock that may need to be disconnected. I don't remember. You will have to check.

8) You will need to remove the speedometer cable from the speedometer in the cluster. If you are not sure how that is done, I can give you some more detail. I think I unplugged this by sticking my hand up from underneath the cluster.

9) You will need to remove the screw that holds the knob onto the clock adjusting shaft and remove the knob so the shaft can exit the dash assembly.

10) I removed all of the bolts that hold the instrument cluster to the dash assembly.

11) I lifted the instrument cluster up and out of the dash assembly. Try to be careful not to scuff or scratch the plastic faces of the instruments (like I did).

If I din't forget anything, it should come up and out of the dash. If you start to remove it and something is still attached, then I missed something.

My most "valuable" tip/suggestion would be to look at the back of an instrument cluster that has already been removed from a car in order to pre-locate all of the screws that ned to be removed. These screws are hard to see and hard to get at if you don't know where they are. Some can be gotten from the top, and some from the bottom. If you know where they are and what they look like, then half of the battle is done. I can send some pics if you need some.

Second suggestion: Be careful with the printed circuit (like I did). Over the years, they can be pretty brittle, especially in the upper left-hand corner. If it gets damaged during the removal, some of your lights will not work and an aftermaket one will run around $100.

Third suggestion: Be careful not to scuff or scratch the plastic faces of the instruments (like I did).

Forth suggestion: Make sure the "blue" high beam plastic piece does not get lost from the front of the dash (like mine did). Otherwise, you will have a bright light glaring in your eyes at night when you have the high beam lights on (like I do).

Hope this helps. I tried to remember as many thing as I could so you don't make some of the mistakes that I did. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mike

December 12, 2005

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the info. I have 3 montes and they are all set to 12 o'clock. As they say, they are correct twice each day. I've never taken a clock apart before, but I have a spare one (doesn't work either) that I can take a look at.

I would really like option 4. Do you have any suggestions as to where I can get a unit to swap in? How easy/difficult is that?

Thanks,

Mike

December 10, 2005

I was wondering how you fix it after you get it out? Is there a better more modern fix?

Thanks,

Mike

December 8, 2005

That's kind of what I thought. I just didn't want to have to kick myself later for letting something good go to the scrap yard. Thanks for your help.

Mike

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