BostonMonte Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 I knew that the car needed some trunk patchwork. I checked to see how bad it is today and I want to fix it properly with new sheetmetal rather than a patch job. The rot goes to the rear wheel wells and toward the back bumper. Should I replace the wheel wells while it is apart? The car has new quarters already installed so, removing those is not desired. Any recommendations on which kit to go with? I see there are 3 piece sets and one piece units also. The prices also vary quite a bit... Thanks in advance! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 I just had to tackle the very same problem in my car. oh boy.. I'm not 100% sure on this.. so I hope leo will chime in.. I believe there are two different one-piece floor pans.. one there is no way to install w/o taking the entire back end of the body off ... but leo can answer taht better then I can. my trunk floor was actully ok except for where it ran over the floor braces, and where the flanges met the inner wheel tubs. I used two of the 3 pieces.. a left and right. the best way I found for me went like this: lay the new floor pan in place.. and just roughly mark where it lays in the trunk. now, do you leave the floor alone over the trunk brace or not? I left it on one side, took it out on the other.. (it's less work to leave the brace alone if it's not bad) on the outside edge, on one side, I left a small flange to weld to.. this ended up making a lot more work to weld it back in.. on the other side, I cut it right close to the spot welds, then ground the spot weld flange off, leaving me able to just spot weld the new pan back in place, rather then trying to sitch weld a seam in. on the right side, I accidently cut the old floor pan right along the edge of the gastank brace.. so I ended up using the whole replacement pan and cutting the old floor out right down the middle of the gas tank brace.. which means a lot more nasty spot welds to remove! (I call them nasty because the ones at the back are an absolute swine to reach! it will be worse with your quarters attached.) at the back by the rear bumper, my car had some interesting patchwork that someone had brazed in years ago, so I used the entire floor pan as far as it went so that I could remove all that previous patchwork. you can see most of the work I've done in My other Thread - click here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BostonMonte Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Thanks KC. I have a feeling that I will go with the three piece units and use what I need. I really need the piece that goes toward the rear valance panel in addition the pieces near the wheel wells. I need to drop the tank and clean everything up to get a really good assessment as to how bad the damage is. Time to grind... Did you do the work yourself? What are you using for a welder? I am looking at the Lincoln Weld Pak 125. Thanks! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 I did all the cutting, grinding, and patch making. I'm still learning how to weld so I've been having Mike Konik (Son of Leo Konik) do the welding for me. We have two welders at the shop tho.. both are just small 110v MIG welders. What do you mean by the piece towards the rear valance? you aren't talking about this 'brace' that's at the very back underneath the floor pans are you? (that the bumper attaches to) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1RND Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 I am in the same boat too. When I got my car I noticed that the trunk had some work done too. After getting to know it better, I realized it was worse than I thought. I ordered a complete trunk kit from Tramraz. The best price on the internet. I won't install this untill I get my welding skills up to snuff. The Doc Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 you didn't get the best price on the internet cuz you didn't get it from leo ~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BostonMonte Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 KC, The trunk floor closest to the lockside of the trunk door is gone. That flat space where the bumper is recessed into the back of the car. It is in the flooring of the trunk. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 the replacement floor pans will cover that area.. but if the brace under that where the bumper is actully attached is in need of repair... you will have to find a donor car or hand fab your own patches, like I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1RND Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Roger on fabbing my own piece for the brace area. I kind of figured that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 it's fairly simple really.. a 45 at the bottom, and two 90's the tricky part is that the bends are rather large radius ... I used a sheet metal brake that was a little too light duty for 16ga sheetmetal, and it actully produced a nice large radius bend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970 Screamer Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 how much bracing is involved when replacing the area the rear bumper attaches too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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