Droff

Finally jumped in and used my welder for the first time. Ugly but functional.

Very nice Bruce. I really like the time difference in the same location pictures, pretty cool being able to do that.

Actually, on Monday..

Sorry, can't help with an answer, but from what year Acura did you pick your seats?

Nothing like this, no. The access holes for the body mounts at the bottom of the firewall above the frame were fairly full of the same stuff, only in a drier condition.

I have no idea how it got this bad, the motor is pretty much the same, plenty of it on top of the intake. I only scraped the front part of the transmission and had several pounds of the - whatever it is.

I pulled a nasty motor and transmission out of my '71 yesterday.

I've found several threads on auto to 4 speed swaps, but not much on a WC T-5 swap. I found a WC T-5 out of a Camaro but no idea on how well that would fit into a Monte, so a couple questions. - First, how good are WC T-5 trannys? It won't see anytime on the track and HP would most likely be in the 350 range. - Anyone put one of these in your car? I'd go with a Muncie and not plow new ground but they are a good bit more pricey and not real easy to find... Thanks.

That looks good too Glen. I can go either direction, I like both looks, just depends on how much more work I want to put into the dash - there's a ton of other things that need done.

I think I'll keep it all black, at least for now. That might change once I get the gauge cluster back in and see how it looks. No kidding. I'm going to know exactly where something is a little off.

First top coat, it looks decent enough to use but I'm going to add another coat.

I rattle can'd a coat of primer on it and saw several flaws that weren't there before. I sanded it down and added some bondo in a tube, first time doing any type of filler work for me and this stuff worked out pretty good. Covered whatever was left of the texture and smoothed out the corners. Hit it with some more high grit paper (wet).

I couldn't figure out a good way to get the texture look to the Steelstick material so I smoothed out the whole dash, but just on the gauge side. It looked pretty decent so far but I wasn't able to get things smoothed out in the corners or at the top.

Well, did some work on the dash and went with some JB Weld stuff called Steelstick. It hardens pretty quick and can be cut or sanded, although the longer it sets, the harder it gets. I used a dremel to remove the raised lettering for the wipers and lighter, then filled it in.

Thanks Dennis. I'm not so sure this particular 383 would be in the daily driver category either. I think the price is really pretty good and I'm sure it has a heck of rumble to it but the high compression/pump gas issue scares me a bit.

I've been considering putting a 383 into my '71, only for street use, close to a daily driver. I've got a 350 transmission in it and will be going to a posi unit with around 3.42 gears. I ran across a 383 for sale that is in a truck used for racing, mud I think. Around 8-9 runs on the engine. - 4 bolt - Forged flat tops - Scat rotating assembly balanced - Comp cam solid lift camshaft 560 570 lift - World product sportsman 2 heads 2.02 1.60, valves been shaved 0.050, have comp screw in studs an guide plates, 220cc runners, 72cc chambers - 0.80 comp 0.100 longer pushrods - 1.5 comp stainless roller rockers with poly locks - Weiland speed intake - No carb $1500 Compression right now is around 11.5:1, he told me he can run 91 pump gas through it. That cam looks awful rough and the heads look a bit large for a driver. Any opinions on whether this is too much to tame down? Would the it need a head swap and a cam swap? Thanks.

Works for me. Is there supposed to be a clip on all 3 tabs? I don't have that situation but it appears there are enough. I've gotten 2 off, no broken tabs yet. I plan on replacing the backer board, so not real concerned with that part. Thanks for the info Sam.

I'm working on taking parts off of my door panels and need some advice on removing the clips that hold the chrome backing plate that the arm rests are attached to. I don't want to mangle anything more than necessary but I can't get anything on these to get them to open and release. Thanks.

That Cutlass 12 bolt I was referring too is a BOP, he pretty much told me that and the cover is a smooth cover. The $800 dollar 12 bolt is a GM, cover gives it away. I've decided to change out the carrier on the 12 bolt I have and go that route. Dollar wise it's not much of a difference as buying one already set up. Thanks.

PC7 sounds like a good possibility, more work time than JB Weld from the sound of it. I'll need to figure out a way to keep the texture of the dash as well. If it all goes in the crapper, I can put the insert back on and paint it.

I'm planning on leaving the burlwood insert out of my car and going with a black dash panel. The problem I have are the holes left by the insert. Would anyone have a suggestion or method for repairing those so I can paint the whole thing? Thanks.

Found some info here, this is a very good info site although a bit light on MC info.. http://chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/201627/ Then also found this on carrier info.. "Chevrolet generally used three different types of differentials for the 12-bolt: the Two Series carrier, the Three Series carrier, and the Four Series carrier. The “Two Series” has little use in a hi-po application and should be avoided if at all possible. The Three Series carrier accepted ring and pinions that ranged from 3.08:1 to 3.73:1, while the Four Series carrier accepted ring and pinions ranging from 3.90:1 to 6.14:1. While there are a number of subtle variations between the three types of carriers, a major difference is the thickness of the gear flange. Two Series carriers are the thinnest, while Three Series flanges are thinner than Four Series flanges. Because of the size of the flange, the carriers cannot be randomly used with ring and pinion sets from the trio of “families” (unless, of course, special gears with custom ring gear mounting surfaces are used. These special gears are readily available from Richmond Gear). Additionally, the Two Series carriers do not have any webs on the top of the carrier. Three and Four Series carriers do have webs."

I don't have numbers from either rear end, but it looks like a '68 could have come with 3.08s and posi, unless I'm looking at the chart wrong.... http://www.chevellestuff.net/1968/rear_axle.htm I haven't done a check on the Cutlass, but I would imagine it would be a BOP. What are the relevant differences I'd need to know? The seller mentioned something about either the pinion or the ring being different somehow, can't recall at the moment.

I've posted more than a couple times on changing out my 2 series carrier to a 3 series, still looking into things but would like some inputs (again) on a couple scenarios. Both are 12 bolts. 1. 12 bolt posi with 3.08 gears, out of a '68 Chevelle SS. No info on condition other than operational, owner had a plan to use in his truck, but the carrier wouldn't fit. $800. The 'not fitting' part sounds odd, I would think he would have verified before purchasing (for $1200) - from a friend. 2. 12 bolt non-posi with 3.08 gears, out of a Cutlass, year not specified but it will fit my '71. No info on condition other than operational. $350. The seller has worked with diffs for many years.....sounds like he knows his rear ends...... (that was intended). Information provided is from the seller, nothing verified yet. So, with these two options, which would you pick, given this information?

I guess I just needed a better search question....."1" bore master cylinder". Not to beat the horse too bad but am I good with these components? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-DBMC18/ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pv72 Robert - Is the color of your Monte Classic Copper?