Droff

Thanks for the info guys. I can't seem to find a disk/disk MC without the booster and I just bought a booster and MC last year, installed but not used. For the setup, the price isn't bad, just don't care for doubling up on parts cost. I think this also takes care of the proportioning valve concern. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-g91210572/overview/year/1971/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo

I need drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs - - pretty much everything replaced on the rear. That should run around $100-150. I saw this on the Summit site, the price looked reasonable for what it is, although a good bit more than what I had planned. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-afxrd01 Just looking for some opinions on this kit or if anyone knows of any issues I might need to consider if I go this route. I've got power brakes now, new booster and MC. Thanks.

So my 12 bolt with the stock 2.73 gears can be changed over to 3.55 gears?

I actually picked up an aftermarket steering wheel a while back for my '70, it's still in the box so it looks like it'll go on the '71. A 15" Grant. Thanks for all the info.

Not to hijack a thread but it is a rear end question. I found a '69 Chevelle 10-bolt with 3.07(?) gears in it. Can I get 3.55 or 3.73 gears into this carrier? From what I've read, I'd say 'yes', but I'd like to verify. I have a 12 bolt with 2.73 gears. To my understanding, I can't change to any 3.xx gears - correct? Thanks.

That's what I was afraid of after I got to looking at it. Thanks.

I've got the original steering wheel, but it looks pretty rough. Can these cracks/broken pieces be repaired or replaced or am I SOL? Thanks.

Well, the 'plan' would be to get it cleaned up and then get the motor running decent as is. I hadn't considered painting any of it at the moment, but had figured some new gaskets, based on where the gunk is originating from. I'd do something with it - rebuild it or swap it - at some point down the road. I like the idea of it being the original engine, but not sure how far that will get me if I want to drive it on a regular basis. I used some degreaser but not so sure I want to continue that path, it's pretty messy and like mentioned, lots of areas unreachable and plenty of crannies. I started to brush and scrape some of the crap off the engine without a degreaser, it's got a bit of a sandy mix to it so I was able to shop vac up some of it. Both valve covers are still painted mostly orange, some of the paint has come off though. I found 2 or 3 more wasp nests around the engine, got them out of there. Thinking more about this, since the car needs transmission work, I'm leaning toward pulling the engine and transmission out of my '70 and dropping those into the '71, as they both are in driving condition. I can rebuild the '71 engine down the road and not worry about the tranny right now. Both engines are 350's, everything can swap back and forth as needed.

Thanks Bruce, I've looked into those and like that idea. I recently ran across a Muncie and a couple Borg Super T-10 transmissions. Anyone have any input on a Super T-10? I don't know a lot about Muncie's, even less about a T-10. Thanks.

Well, the reason for the question arrived at the house this week. http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16490-its-a-new-car/ The engine runs but I want to get it cleaned up before I start any work on it as I'm sure plugs, wires and whatever else will need to be replaced. Any more suggestions for cleaning after seeing a few pics? I'm thinking engine cleaner/degreaser and many, many towels. I don't have a power washer and nothing really to catch all the run off from a garden hose either...

Without starting a new thread, I'm still looking around for a 5 speed. I seem to always see several T5 WC transmissions for Mustangs. Any info on difficulty bolting this up to a SBC? I'm not all that familiar with transmissions but I'd assume a bolt pattern issue...... Thanks.

So pretty much fabricate to fit as far as installing buckets? I have a bench seat car but want to go with buckets, still thinking on whether to buy the bracket and weld it in or modify without the bracket. Other than a set of A-body buckets, I'm just not sure what would be best to try and get into the car.

Murphy, Did you install bucket seat brackets for the conversion?

Good info, thanks.

I was looking at '71 Monte that had been sitting several years and there is a ton of dust all over the engine, as well as several areas that indicate a leak of some kind. The engine starts and runs (a bit rough). Without pulling the motor, how would be the best way to clean the dust and dirt off of it and out of the engine bay? Just wouldn't want to get water into anything that would end with a bad result.... Thanks.

Thanks for all the info, it appears regardless of what I convert to, it isn't going to be a thrifty proposition. The trans link I posted earlier sold very quickly, well before I could get any good info on whether to pursue it.

I've been researching the conversion effort to go to a manual transmission in my '70. I've looked at Muncie's as well as 5 and 6 speeds, all from the used market, I'm not going new for this. I'm open to either a 4, 5 or 6 speed, just unsure on what year/model would be worth swapping to. Muncie's are getting sparse at the moment (locally anyway) and most owners have been pretty proud of them. I'm not in a big hurry but don't want to pass on what could be a good deal. I ran across this for sale, includes a lot of the parts I'm going to need that I don't have. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/5517067306.html Any input on value with this? I know this sort of question is based on what I'm willing to pay and what it's worth to me, but ..... Also looking for opinions on viability, what else I might need, possible problems, those sort of things. I've got a 350 engine, 2.73 open rear end - eventually would like a 383 stroker with around 3.30's to 3.70's for the rear, no time frame on those. I think I'd get the 383 on board before the rear change. Thanks for the help.

I couldn't see that in the daylight. This should take care of my issue, thanks.

I'll check things over again when I get home from work, thanks for the info.

Someone have a few tips on removing the remote mirror from the door panel? I have 3 cables attached to the back, I can see a couple screw ends on the door panel as well, just don't know how to get it apart. Thanks.

At one time I thought I ran across a piece that slips into the transmission to plug the tailshaft location to avoid this. Any suggestions for this?

I've considered this as well with no real good reason to discount it. I need to remove the hood anyway so that's part of the solution already - I need a new hood. My thought process was pulling the drivetrain will be more work initially but would make the following work easier in the long run - cleaning, installing intake, headers, etc. You can't make changes if you don't have a plan, thanks for the input Murray.

I have a *plan* to pull the 350 out of my Monte, clean up the engine bay, clean up the motor, install a new intake and carb with possibly a set of headers. Which would be the easier route, pulling the 350 transmission with it, or leaving the transmission in the car? I'm not all that experienced going either route... Thanks.

I've been looking around for a 4 speed Muncie and it seems that regardless of model (M20, M21, M22), the cost seems to swing a good bit, anywhere from $300 to $1200+. I will say typically, the lower cost transmissions would need a rebuild, while the higher dollar ones are usually okay to install as is. Some have linkage and a shifter, some are just the tranny and some have clutch parts. So, just looking for some opinions, what is a good price on an M20 or M21? (M22's are more like hen's teeth). Is this more like a "whatever it's worth to you" kind of thing?