Jason72

This is from the 1972 gm service manual. Jason Scan0001.pdf

I found this on line...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjE-wHsjZ_E

Thanks guys. I wish this snow would stop and spring get here....

My target was 650. I hope I have at least 600. After I do the fine tuning I will get it on the dyno and post my results

small video https://carousel.dropbox.com/photos/cc/oJKkyB44EPRLzBu

In the quest to satisfy the addiction to the crack, aka going faster, this winter has kept me pretty busy. I built a 427 small block with a Dart block and AFR heads. I also replaced my 10 bolt with a 3.88 9 inch Moser unit. I was able to take it for a ride on Friday and WOW what a difference!!! (Didn't even spray the NOS yet) I still have to put on the 3 inch exhaust and a few small details. Cant wait to get to the track!! I also want to say "Thank You!" to all that have posted on their experiences modifying their cars. I was able to search the forums and find answers or ideas to help with a lot of the hurdles that I encountered.

The tcc should have power going to the plug on the trans. Then inside it should go to a switch that closes via hydrolic pressure in 4th gear and then to a solenoid for the tcc.

for the early shifting, what gears are in the car, tire size, and what is the governor in the trans from or set for? the jumping around at a stop part, Does it have a lock up converter?

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm going with empire

Yes, I have the tci valve body in mine. It works great. Make sure you get a good pump to go along with it as it puts a lot of stress on the pump over stock. What is the trans doing as it may not be a valve body issue. 700s have other issues, the valve body is not usually an issue

I would check fuel pressure fuel volume and make sure your choke is not getting sucked shut. Could also just need a good old-fashioned tuneup

I am looking to get a new driveshaft made for my 72. Can anyone running in the low 11s high 10s have any suggestions as far as brand or type? Thanks. Jason

Good job David. That's awesome. Congrats!!

Glad to hear you are getting somewhere. I am very curious about this one....

Any updates?

I would do the guides/valves and save up for a rebuild later. If you go for a rebuild, it always costs a lot more when you are finished. Heads then cam then pistons then "should I make a 383" then carb, exhaust, rear, converter..............

This can be a tricky one... The best option in my opinion is a complete rebuild. I have no idea about pricing in France. The next choice would be to remove your heads, have the guides/ valves done and reassemble. Adding a good set of heads, possibly a camshaft and trying to get 400 hp is the last thing I would do because you have a bottom end with 100,000 miles on it. It may not handle it and if it doesn't, you risk damaging your new parts you just installed. If you do take that route, be expecting it to break and need a new engine so if it does you are ready. Again, I would fix what is broke and run it until I had funds to do what I want.

ok, I have to get back to work, If the timing is ok and no vacuum leaks put the old distributor back in and see what happens. I will check back later today and see how you make out. (It should not start 180 out,but stranger things have happened)

Sam is correct. You have to have it all lined up when #1 piston is on the compression stroke.

the rotor should only fit one way. It should be pointing to the wire that goes to #1 cylinder on the cap. (driver side front spark plug) and the balancer notch should be at 0 on the tab. That gets you in the ball park, you still need to time it with a timing light.

also verify your timing marks on the balancer match when the piston is up, Balancer could have spun...

Then I would carefully go over what you did. I know it was already stated, but firing order 18436572 timing, What is it at? manifold vacuum?

How did it run before you changed the intake and carb?

Terry, I agree with your mechanic/friend and is why I said to check lifter bores. Production big blocks have finished lifter bores and the GM lifters are what fit best. Aftermarket big blocks rarely have finished lifter bores and need to be honed to size before assembly, because of this most aftermarket lifters for big blocks are slightly smaller in diameter. Morel lifters are made to the same spec as GM as far as size go and fit best next to GM lifters. Comp cams has some of the noisiest lifters out there also. If the clearance between the lifter and bore is to large and if you run a thinner oil, the rollers can starve for oil causing the cam lobes to be damaged. I don't know what oil you are running but I never run 5w30 in any performance gas engine. Lastly, I have 22 years working with GM and their parts and can tell you stories about manufacturing issues with machining with all sorts of things that do not get discovered by or admitted to by GM until they have numerous warranty claims. I would not be surprised if the blocks lifter bores (or one of them) is flawed and the second engine has the same issue due to lack of claims. I am sure that they do not sell enough zz427s that your second block has the same problem and they do not know about it yet. Jason

Yes. Like Mike said. It will be ok