Kevin Wiles

anyone done this? how do you do it? any tips? i'd like to try it on a future (green monte) project.

do you see where at the top of the browser it says stuff like "file edit view favorites tools help" did you right click on that? what version are you running

right click on any part of the toolbar above the internet page window, then check "address bar"

we're in

andreas, can you pm me with what the activity is? i am especially interested because i'll be in a NASCAR monte !!!!!

I went ahead and let jared try his hand at welding, but i wouldnt let him use my welding helmet.

I am happy to say that the welder is more than capable! I changed to .035 flux core and it welds so hot I had to turn the heat down !!! Wow what a difference.

Can't seem to weld thick steel to thick steel. If I try, you can simply tap it lightly with a hammer and it comes apart. and when it falls apart you can get a chisel and tap the rest of the crap off the part. its a Lincoln 110 Mig Welder I tried A B C and D settings on the welder, faster and slower wire, more and less argon gas, and I had a very very good ground... and tried for over an hour, redoing it again and again. But I failed. I'm just not getting good penetration. I am using .023 wire which i know is small but Whats up with this?

ok ok ok i gotta admit i was wrong, you guys were right. the problem was the guides had all the fuzzy worn off. once i peeled the old worn fuzzy off, and replaced it with the soft side of velcro, it's going up and down nice and quiet THANKS!!

hey bob i tried that too, while i had the guides out, i tried rolling the window up and down with pressure toward the outside, pressure toward the inside, and inbetween with no difference in the grinding screetching noise. very odd huh?

i will double check that but i dont think thats the issue because i believe i had the fuzzy little guides completely out at one point today, and it still made the noise

took off the door panel, oiled it all over the rod, the tracks, the wheels, the gears, rolled it up and down oiling and oiling but to no avail, there is a very loud reverberating screeching sound, almost like fingernails on a chalkboard, but louder. What am I missing here? Just replace the whole mechanism?

what would you guys use for under-hood insulation for the coke machine??? i'm guessing this?? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14125/

ok in the end, I had to shorten a stock driveshaft 1-1/8". Its back in the car now, and I drove it for about 20 minutes yesterday. I'm getting a driveshaft loop tomorrow also, the one from metco motorsports.

got a normal driveshaft with regular yoke and found out it will need to be cut about 5/8" of an inch

got the tranny back from the shop and after a lot of screaming, kicking, and groaning, got it back in there installed. Now it has the same tailshaft spline count as a turbo 350. Took a stock monte driveshaft, and tried to test it out, but the front yoke balancer is hitting a part of the outer case of the transmission so to make a long story short i'm going to try another driveshaft today, one without a balancer.

they are made out of jello

yes, bent main shaft

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE The T-10 is getting a good rebuild Small Parts Kit Blocking Rings Syncronizers Gaskets AND the big expense... A new main shaft. Going to a 27 spline. Should be out of the shop in a few days and then i'll install it back in its home in the coke machine a few days later. Then its all about getting a new driveshaft shortened.

thanks for the compliments on my placement of the bolt for the shoulder harness but why must you go around saying its a 16 second car? none of us know what its capable of but you make it sound as if its a dog

i am being told by another source i might have a twisted output shaft on the trans. and that this statement alone says twisted shaft: Quote: i could stick a small screwdriver or a rod waaaaay up in there before it stopped.... on the other hand, the yoke goes in about 2" then stops. if you take a hammer and tap it it will go another 1/4" or so, but then you have to absolutely beat on the sucker to get it back out. how do I remove the tail housing and what should i expect, is this a fairly easy job or will i have to start dismantling things that i'll get in over my head.???

i'm not at home right now so i can't go look ...but mine looks like this one, but it has a date of 1962 on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-Corv...6QQcmdZViewItem

i could stick a small screwdriver or a rod waaaaay up in there before it stopped.... on the other hand, the yoke goes in about 2" then stops. if you take a hammer and tap it it will go another 1/4" or so, but then you have to absolutely baat on the sucker to get it back out. ps my yoke is 4" long ..... and there is 1/2" of tailshaft sticking out of the back of the trans and that seems to be the proper amount so that rules out incorrect tailshaft housing. so to review if my yoke only goes in 2" and there is 1/2" of tailshaft sticking out, its bottoming out at about 2-1/2" total spline contact. if I pull it out 3/4" or 1" to prevent jamming and go like that, i'd only have 1-1/2 to 1-3/4" total spline contact. Something is just not right here. I'm afriad if i start tearing the transmission apart i'll be in over my head quickly and end up having to tow the car to the shop ($$$$)

i tried another yoke to see what happens and it does the same thing, it will only slide in about half way. I took a piece of rod and stuck it in the tail of the trans and rode up and down to see if i felt a burr or any other obstruction on the tail shaft, but i didn't feel anything out of the ordinary. then i went around in circles with the rod inside the tail of the trans to see if there was something obstructing around the outer edges, but again i didnt feel anything. it has the course spline yoke and tailshaft. its not like a th350. this trans does not have a little end cone to take off and view just the tailshaft area. anyone ever heard of this? and oh lord why me??? why me!!!??!??