my72toy

Here is what I would do next. Unplug your wire from the temp sensor and use an OHM meter and go between that wire and the wire in the #10 position on your cluster plug, which should be a dark green wire. You will have to make up some sort of an extension lead for your meter as I assume the leads will not be long enough. If it ohms out to about zero, then you know the wire does not have any breaks in it and also you know you have the correct wire going to the cluster plug. Would suggest unplugging the cluster plug when doing this.

The problem with the unit I got was that the float arm itself was too long, thus it would require a longer stroke for it to read from empty to full. As our tanks are not that deep, I could have adjusted the arm so it would read empty correctly but then it would not read full correctly, or vice versa. I have the original tank in my car if that makes a difference or not. And also make sure that the sending unit you have has the float arm on the correct side, as my filler neck extends deep into the tank and it would interfere with the float arm if it is on the wrong side. Hope this helps you out some.

Ended up changing my sending unit and it has turned out to be a nightmare. I bought a replacement unit and put it in. When I filled up my tank after replacing unit, gas gauge only went to 5/8 tank. So I went back to my supplier and showed him the problem. He gave me a replacement unit to put in. So I went and pulled the unit out of the tank and compared it with my old non-working unit. The float arm is bent different than my old one. The new replacement unit he gave me will not work for me as the float is on the wrong side and will hit the filler tube inside tank. So I end up bending the float to try and match it to my old one. Reassembled everything and filled it up with gas, Now it only shows 3/4 tank when full. So I have ended up repairing my old unit, will be putting that back in this weekend. That will be the third time I have dropped the tank. Am getting real good at doing that now, lol

I have just experienced the same problem. I installed a conversion kit that I bought from sonnie24 on ebay. After installing it I noticed that the gage would show 1/4 tank more than was actually in the tank. The other day I finally filled my tank completely full at the gas station for the first time. When I did that, the needle moved about a 1/4 tank more above the full level. Now, for the last couple of days, my needle is stuck sitting at about the 3 oclock position. When I got the kit from him, I noticed that the fuel gage needle was sitting past the full mark, I just assumed it had moved there because of the shipping and being banged around so I just moved it to about the 1/2 mark before I installed it. My old big fuel gage worked fine without any issues. Am wondering if I have a defective fuel gage now. Any ideas?

I just completed putting in a console and bucket seats in my car. I too did not have the plug in my wiring harness so I used the existing neutral safety switch on the column. Just hooked into the orange and white wires for courtesy light and taped into the gray wire for illumination. Plus that saved me about $100 in harness costs.

I just did my conversion to buckets, console last month. Was surprised, was not all that hard to do. I used the pdf file listed here and it helped out a lot. Just took me the better part of the day to do it with help from a friend. The only thing I did different is not use the console and extension harness. Used my original neutral safety switch on the column and ran some wires for illumination and coutesy lights. Only thing I have left to do is replace column shift speedo with one for a floor shift. Will do that when I replace my dash assembly and clock later on this year.