72 LS5

I just put a 2004 GEN VI 502 in Big Blue last July. When GM came out with the GEN V, they a lot of heat from customer with regards to using the Mark IV cylinder heads on the new block. The GEN VI is revised architecture to commonize the MarkIV and GEN V block. "Water jackets were revised near the deck surface so that Mark IV or GEN V head gaskets can be used interchangeably" (from the GM catalog). I'm using old Performer heads with the gaskets they recommend. The big 7 QT oil pan works, no problem. But it won't work on a Chevelle. In recent years (I think 2006ish), they added a mechanical fuel pump provision, otherwise you have to run electric. All my old stuff bolted right up - manifold, distributer, water pump, brackets, mounts, starter, etc. I got new push rods from GM for the factory roller - they would be different than a flat tappet 454. Since the GEN VI was designed for a roller cam, no reason not to use one. Most of the stuff is affordable right from GM. If you use a cam much over .600 lift or so, aftermarket lifters are recommended. Davey has a lot of experience with this....

I just got the news......congrats Davey! Two words: All Motor I love it. Kudos to Chris and Scott, too.

I'm using my stock 3/8 line with a 130 gph electric pump on my 502 (stock ZZ cam). Haven’t had it to the track to see if it noses over, but it does not feel like it on the street. Curious, is yours a newer block with a provision for a mechanical pump?

Davey - you are running AFR 305s..... Were you running those before? Do you have the flow bench numbers of the heads? What total timing made the best HP? I know this is for bracket racing. How do you think it would run on the street? The specs seem tamer than what a lot of the other Chevelle guys run.

Davey - I've been reading the posts on the Chevelle board and its really cool seeing this thing come together. A big Congrats to you and the others involved. I saw your came specs and I'm floored that you are over 750 hp with 244 duration and 650 lift!!! Can you run pump gas with 11:1?

Great launch! What did you run? Is that a camera on the side of the car? If so, post the vid......

Think Tim would do some burnout shots for us? It's all how you pose the question: "Do you think you would mind.......oh, forget it, I'm sure it's too much trouble." "What? Just ask me..." "Well.....me and the fellas were wondering it you could do a couple of 6500 rpm tire melting smokey burnouts for us?" He won't say "No". He'll say "Hell No".

No more shotgun pipes. I installed my SS tips today. As usual, what should have take 1 hour took about 2 but I won't bore you with the details. These were tough to find - 3 inch, most were 2.5. Now I look like I got a job!

I think that cam will work well with those gears, but you may be able to go one step higher (around 224 duration at .050 on the intake) without sacrificing torque.

Where in FL are you headed? How was your oil pressure before you took it apart? What rear gears are you running? What's your favorite color?

Larry - I'm pretty sure the flexy is on correctly, the raised torque converter tabs are facing the converter if I recall. With regular starters, I always pry out the gear drive and do a visual on the clearance, but I have a new GM gear reduction starter and was unable to do this. I think I have excessive clearance with no shims.

Went to start it last night to go to the local cruise. I turned the key and it let out this horrible metallic sound that would make the hairs on your neck stand on end! The starter was always a little loud.....I hope no teeth got sheered off! Gonna see what lurks under there after work today in between helping the kids with homework, grilling, etc.... Pray for me, I don't want to replace the flexy!

I think 3000 may be a little high for a cruiser, especially if your cam's power range starts around 2000.

Nice progress! I see 502 emblems - did you build a 454 or 502? You are inspiring me to do my body bushings.......

1.35? did you see the sky???

Dave, I was so upset that those sweet [looking] SSBC calipers actually stopped worse than the stockers. When I put them on, I stupidly threw away my old calipers thinking I'd never go back. Then I got the manual booster from Master Power, and I had to grind the rod a bit for a perfect fit. I also moved up the mounting point on the brake pedal. I was getting the proper PSI at the caliper with the manual booster, but it still would not stop, and that's when I actually got my money back from SSBC. I may try the manual master again, but with the stock calipers after hearing its working for you. With my stock setup, the car brakes good from normal speeds and higer rpms, but not at speeds of 20 or so. I thought I'd have better brakes with the 502, but its the same as my 454. I also tried a vacuum pump. It was loud and ran a full 10 seconds after each pump of the brake. I took that off too. Now I just follow the car in front of me like I'm pulling 50' Hatteras Sport Fisherman. What pads are you using?

I'm interested in your track results too. Are you able to lock up the wheels with this setup? Do you know if you can use a manual master with power booster? I've tried a manual disc/drum master too, but not with stock calipers. Nutshell version: put SSBC dual piston calipers on with power setup, car stopped worse, went to manual setup with SSBC calipers, still didn't stop, so I put it all back to stock and sent the SSBC calipers back. Still doesn't stop!

Consensus here is run the box, which I will. Some other dudes have said it doesn't do swat.... I'll find out first hand. Andy, I can't feel the valve float. The performer heads are almost identical to the GM heads on the 502, so I figured the spring rates are similar. The 502 is known to float the valves under 6 grand. I'm WAY under .700 lift, but that roller valvetrain is WAY heavier than a flat tappet solid.

Andy, yeah, I was leaning toward the 6AL box, although its not so pretty anymore. Got a 5800 pill? Valve float comes pretty quick after that. ......unless you had installed some beefed up springs in the Performer heads you sold me. We checked spring pressure but I can't remember off the top of my balding head.....

I would say you could safely go up 1 full point in compression.

My main goal is a rev limiter as its way to easy to break the street tires loose and over-rev the motor. I've got a GM HEI dizzy. I have a used MSD 6AL box ready to install, but I really hate to add more parts and wires - I prefer the clean and simple approach. I'm hearing the 6AL may improve drivability with improved cold performance (no choke for me), less exhaust smell, and cleaner plugs. Can everyone verify this? Then there's the MSD control module with rev limiter that installs under the HEI cap. Clean and simple, less parts to fail. But no multiple spark, of course. Anybody have any input and why? Thanks

Congrats! That is really flying!

Tommy, where in FL are you located? I just got done installing a fuel pump kill switch cuz Big Blue is so easy to steal. I would tell you where its located but I'd have to kill ya.

No overheating issues - haven't heard of that.... I'm running a newer GM ZZ4 distributor with the built in coil. Fairly easy to install but you must not use the original hot resistor wire. Others can chime in on the Kits to convert what you already have. I suspect this would be easier as you won't have to pull the distributor and you can use many of your existing parts.

Switching to HEI was the first thing I did to Big Blue when I got her in the late 80's. HEIs were plentiful in junkyards back then. Man, I'm getting old...... Nowadays you may be better off getting a brand new distributor or changing over the guts to electronic ignition with a kit similar to the Pertronics Kit (http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/PerTronixConversions.htm). The installation is straight forward either way and will give you more reliable performance, especially over time as there are no points to wear out or bounce at higher rpms.