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jft69z

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Posts posted by jft69z

    Spark plug wires and plugs

    in Non-Tech

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:

    Yes I've used them for years in chevys, the older ones that is. For me they lasted longer than ac delco stuff.

    Same here, in the older cars.

    Newer vehicles (stock engines), I tend to put the OEM ones back in. Never Bosch plugs, unless you want misfire codes.

    • Like 1

    8 AWG wire

    in Electrical Tech

    Posted

    I swear...FB is always listening and watching. We're talking electrical,  and this just popped up on there...😄

     

    FB_IMG_1711383471279.jpg

     

     

    This popped up right after it...this is getting scary now 🤨

    "Breaker Finder"  😄

     

     

    Screenshot_20240325_122900_Facebook.jpg

    • Haha 5

    8 AWG wire

    in Electrical Tech

    Posted

    Depends on the quality of your 50 year old wires too. If they're internally corroded, that would lead to higher resistance etc. 

    It wouldn't hurt to increase the wire size as you're considering,  but you may be disappointed if the results don't help as much as you're hoping.

     

    • Like 1

    8 AWG wire

    in Electrical Tech

    Posted

    Is everything else on the car basically stock, no EFI, electric fuel pump, large stereo system, etc?, 

    Typically it's a 10 gage wire from the factory, with fusible links in there at places, which are usually 4 sizes smaller (resulting in a 14 gage wire, in effect).

    • Like 1

    Power brake booster

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    48 minutes ago, 420ponies said:

    That's what I'm ordering in the morning. I checked out leeds. Is that pump for the dodge ? The one they show in products? I was just going to re-use my canister style I've used for years. Not enough or old school?post-259-0-06116300-1484180397_thumb.jpg

    I use these ones.  I don't use the case though.

    https://www.amazon.com/LEED-Brakes-

    You can get it without the canister for a few bucks less, but usually slower delivery:

    https://www.amazon.com/LEED-Brakes-without case

     

    They're actually local to me, but I get them from Amazon, here the next day and I don't have to drive out there (cheaper too).

    https://leedbrakes.com

    • Like 1

    Oil change 350SB

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, Dtret said:

    I agree. I’ve never been a fan of using additives in anything. Just use the product that’s was designed for that specific purpose. My opinion but I’ve always thought that additives were like an easy way out. 

    And chemically, the additives may not play nice with what you're adding it to, as a couple of the articles state.

    • Like 1

    Oil change 350SB

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    15 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

    Rotella and wix

    Though this isn't the article I was referring to, it has much the same info regarding diesel oil, and also standalone zinc additives as well. Keep in mind, these are oil company experts answering the questions.  The link, and a few pertinent excerpts:

    https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/ask-oil-expert-industry-specialists-set-record-str/

     

    EDIT: This may be the article I was thinking about, but I know there is one more out there regarding 'break-in' oils, and they also address diesel oil and standalone additives, but it's not in web form yet.(Hemmings Muscle Machines-January 2024 edition):

    https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/

     

     

    Q. A lot of people recommend diesel oils for older gasoline engines. Is this good advice? Why or why not?

    • A. The diesel oil recommendation most likely started when API reduced the amount of zinc in gasoline engine oils. Diesel oils contain higher amounts of zinc, so this is why people use them in gasoline engines.

    Another potential factor is the wider viscosity selection of diesel oils. If your classic requires a 15W-40 oil, for example, it’s going to be hard to find a gasoline engine oil in that viscosity.

    Diesel-specific engine oils are designed to help remove the soot and other byproducts of running diesel fuel–a greater amount than gasoline produces. Therefore, diesel oils usually contain a higher concentration of certain detergents to clean the internals better. Usually this is a good thing. However, the detergents can be so effective that they remove part of the oil film from the cylinder walls, and that can mean quicker wear.

    There are other reasons why people use diesel oils in gasoline engines, but none of them are, in my opinion, valid. Modern, high-quality gasoline engine oils are much better at protecting the engine than any diesel oil will ever be.

    STEFAN BRAUN
    Application specialist
    Liqui Moly

    • A. That diesel recommendation comes from the days when diesel oils contained more ZDDP than gasoline engine oils. Today’s API CK-4 diesel spec allows oils to be the same ZDDP level as a gasoline car oil, so the “advantage” of diesel oils has been eliminated.

    LAKE SPEED JR. 
    Certified lubrication specialist
    Driven Racing Oil

     

     

     

    Q. Which is better for my original, older engine and why: conventional oil or synthetic? And which one leaks less? And what if that older engine has been recently rebuilt?

    • A. As long as your engine is mechanically sound, a motor oil isn’t going to cause leaks–whether it’s conventional or synthetic. If it’s leak-free and in good shape, use a synthetic oil to provide maximum protection. The same goes for healthy rebuilt engines.

    If your engine is older and does leak, the problem could be seals and gaskets that have become brittle or worn. Even if the engine doesn’t leak, those seals could still be in poor condition. Sometimes sludge builds up enough to effectively prevent oil from slipping past deteriorated seals or gaskets. 

    Using a high-quality synthetic oil with good detergency can dissolve that sludge and reveal the true condition of the seals, causing leaks. If you suspect your engine falls into this category, we recommend sticking with a conventional oil.

    LEN GROOM
    Technical product manager
    Amsoil

    • A. In most cases, classic engines that have been using conventional oil for several years should stay with conventional oil. The seals get accustomed to the lubricant, and big changes (like switching from conventional to synthetic) can cause them to leak. For rarely driven cars, the risk is not worth the reward, so just stick with conventional oil. Now, if the engine is getting rebuilt, then you can go with synthetic (and then stay with synthetic) after the breaking-in process.

    LAKE SPEED JR. 
    Certified lubrication specialist
    Driven Racing Oil

     

     

     

    Q. How much zinc does my older engine need?

    • A. It depends on the engine’s make, model and vintage as well as its purpose–is it for racing or just the occasional trip around town?

    Modern engine oils are formulated to be backward-compatible with older stock gasoline engines. However, plenty of modified older engines are out there with flat tappets and aggressive performance cams. For these souped-up old-timers, a higher-zinc oil (like some racing oils) might be prudent. Defer to OEM recommendations for stock engines and to the engine builder’s recommendations for modified engines.

    VALVOLINE TECHNOLOGY TEAM
    Compiled by Josh Frederick
    OEM technical manager

    • A. I recommend above 1200 ppm if it has a flat-tappet cam and lifters.

    MANUEL A. GUTIÉRREZ
    Director of marketing
    Lucas Oil

     

    Q. Do you recommend using a zinc additive in older engines?

    • A. Engine oils are a very precise balance of additive components and base oil(s) that work in harmony to provide the desired lubrication. The introduction of any type of additional additive disrupts this formulation synergy–like jamming an extra piece in a puzzle that’s already complete. This change in harmony can have a negative effect on the performance of the oil, not to mention change its identity.

    Bottom line: Additional aftermarket additives are not needed. Frankly, if an end user relies on an additive to change some aspect of their oil’s performance, then they’re using the wrong oil.

    KENNETH M. TYGER
    Director of Technical Services Penn Grade
    PennGrade1
    Lubricants

    • A. We never recommend using aftermarket oil additives. Engine oils are designed with a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to work holistically to provide optimal protection and performance. A properly formulated oil for the intended application doesn’t require aftermarket additives to provide good protection. In fact, adding aftermarket additives can disrupt the oil formulation and reduce protection.

    LEN GROOM
    Technical product manager
    Amsoil

    • A. No! If your oil needs an additive to properly protect your engine, then you need a different oil.

    LAKE SPEED JR. 
    Certified lubrication specialist
    Driven Racing Oil

    • Like 4

    Fender patches

    in New Products

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Dtret said:

    Joe bring your welding equipment. lol. I’ll bring two fenders, the two patches and a gallon of bondo. O ya  and a hammer. 

    22 minutes ago, Michael Boyte said:

    Include the mandatory adult beverages, and you might just get what you are looking for  !!!

     

    Nah...

    I considered putting on a metal repair clinic under the club tent, to provide the type of thing that Carlisle said the Fiero people did better than us a couple years ago (poor excuse at best). But, it'll probably be 90o out there, so that's not happening... 🤷‍♂️    :nono:     😄

    Plus, it'll cut into my nap time under the tent....

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4

    Fender patches

    in New Products

    Posted

    They only show up on Jegs site, that I can see. The other available ones are completely different (look like junk), with NO holes or stamped relief on the bottom edge.

    Maybe it's their own product. If so, good on them for tooling up something with a limited audience/return on investment..

    • Like 2

    Oil change 350SB

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    1 hour ago, cny first gen 71 said:

    I've used frams before, wix, k&n Purolator, napa gold never seen much of a difference but I only put about 1000 miles a year. Last year don't think I did that because I couldn't walk to the car.

    K&N, Mobil1, and the original AC Delcos (no longer available) are all good ones, made by Champ labs. The AC Delco, UPF48R line (black, for newer Corvettes, trucks) are still good quality too.

    • Like 3

    Oil change 350SB

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    I use the Mobil 1 (M1-302) filters (Wix are good too), after cutting a bunch of them open. 

    Any of the Delco's with an 'E' after them ex. PF-48E, are not made as good as they used to be, before FRAM took them over. 

    The Mobil 1's are still of the same build quality as the original ones made by Champ Labs.

    Some pics of various filters:

    oil filters cut apart 

     

    That being said, not sure about some of the Delco's out there now in the PF35 variety (larger, truck style capacity). I just ordered the ones below and will cut them open.

    PF35

    PF35 classic

    PF1218

    • Like 4

    New air cleaner decals!

    in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, John Burns said:

    Here is the link (is there is a better way to post a link?) :

    There is a way to add your own description to shorten the link posted. Follow the pics below.

     

    Click the "Link" button first:

    1a.jpg

     

    A new window will pop open, paste the link you want to insert into your post, add the shortened description in the line below, then click "Insert into post" button.

     

    2a.jpg

     

    End result:

    3.JPG

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