Nick_R_23

That’s for sure, and a larger shop! Keeping the local Napa in business as well, stocked up since I have both the TH400 for the Monte and a TH350 for the Nova currently getting built.

Tell me about it. Cam kit is probably going to be $1300. TH400 kit and TC is probably going to be $1000. Still have an intake, carb, and valve covers to source. Can’t take it with me, lol.

Summit Racing will be the death of me. Spent last week researching everything, finally pulled the trigger today. Still waiting to hear back from Comp on a cam recommendation.

That will live no problem. Like others have said, file down the sharp edge and run it.

Stock, quadrajet. Mild cruiser, Edelbrock. Performance, Holley.

Part of why I want 1-3/4”, keep as much room in there as possible.

Yeah, but when they pull off those restore-in-a-week shows, I’m sure you want as much brand new parts sitting there as possible. I want to see the Roadkill guys get one. They got fairly close with the Crusher Impala.

Watched that one also, really nice car. Overhaulin’ had one or two first Gen Monte’s throughout the run of the show also, IIRC.

Wow, thanks for the replies and input here so far guys. My want for an upgraded pan is because the stock pans are known for oil control issues. Having one on the drag strip would really be a best case scenario, as you’re just throwing all the oil to the sump for the most part. But even spirited street driving can empty a stock pan in a hurry (oil sloshing forward, and aerating oil from windage due to crank contact) with the lack of baffling on braking and turn ins, and this is how I plan to use the car. Also, IMO, the high volume/high pressure pumps sucking pans dry is a myth, oil pressure loss is due to inability to direct and maintain oil around the pickup source. A Melling HV pump moves an average of ~6 GPM at peak RPM not including the bypass, which means it would take 10 seconds for the pump working at max capacity to completely drain a full 4 quart pan, assuming this was possible with no circulated oil returning to the pan. If it takes 10 seconds for oil to drain back through the block, that means you’re holding a full gallon of oil above the crank, and there’s some serious problems! High volume pumps are simply a high pressure pump with larger gerotors (and thicker body) that builds the same max pressure but can move a larger volume of oil earlier in the RPM range. Extra oil capacity and better oil control systems are simply means to prevent the pickup from being allowed to introduce air into the oil system. As far as the headers go, sadly I just can’t justify $1500+shipping for headers on a car that only cost $1500 to begin with. Stainless is definitely not a necessity. If they made an uncoated mild steel version at a more reasonable price, I would consider that for sure. I finally got some time to sit and read a few threads and reviews on several different products, and here’s what I’m considering for both parts and why: Oil pan: Milodon 30951 - Under $400, true 6 quart pan capacity (plus filter), updated baffle, utilizes OE dipsticks, has cutout for easy oil filter removal with headers, HV pump compatible, and has a windage tray available. Headers: Hedman 68190 - Just over $300, 1-3/4” tubes, 3” collectors with ball socket fittings, 2-1/2” reducers, hardware, and gaskets. #7 tube moved inboard and forward which gives the appearance of good brake distribution block clearance. Good reviews on Chevelle clearance, hard to pin much down on Monte specific clearance, may have to contact Hedman to ask about any potential Monte issues. Is there anyone with hood or bad experience on either of these two parts in their Monte?

I think the terms have gotten diluted over the years. To me, Restored: The car is returned to its original, factory-built state with no modifications, with numbers or date code matching parts (exceptions may be minor or unobtrusive safety or longevity updates, examples of this would be an addition of seat belts in the interior, addition of a passenger mirror not originally equipped, or hardened valve seats in the engine for modern fuel usage). These builds would be done based off of VINs, Trim Tags, data plates, and build sheets for the most factory-correct build possible. Restomod/Modified: The car is returned to mostly original state, but has appearance and/or performance modifications that are based off of original style equipment. Examples would be adding non-original but factory available parts or upgrades to paint, interior, or trim, modified factory-style engines or transmissions (larger engines, H/C/I upgrades, exhaust, 4 speed swaps, etc), or swapping drum brakes to disc or non-power to power brakes, adding, power steering that wasn’t originally equipped, etc. These builds would be your average classic car owner looking to upgrade and work with what they have. ProTouring: The car is completely modernized. The basic body look is kept, but the engine, transmission, fuel, ignition, and engine management system, steering, suspension, and brakes are all upgraded to those used in modern vehicles, with a strict goal of performance in mind. Usually also paired with heavy interior upgrades and other exterior aero and handling improvements, as well as modern electronic options. These builds would be those looking for performance and handling from a modern car packaged in a classic body, and would often categorize LS/LT swaps, 5/6 speed manual and 4, 6, 8, and 10 speed auto transmissions, EFI and computer control, IFS and 3 link, 4 link, or IRS suspensions, quick ratio boxes or R&P steering, big brake kits, modern wheel and tire profiles, and more. IMO, your goal would indeed fall under the Restomod/Modified category.

Stock 4 quart pans are pretty slim even on a stock engine. It’s not hard to starve for oil even playing on the street.

Hey guys, 1970 Monte Carlo that’s getting a 454, stock heads. I need a new oil pan to replace the RV pan, and I would like to step up to a larger capacity pan as well. Street driven only, no racing. I’ve found quite a few on Summit, but with spotty reviews. I’d like to steer away from the $4-500 pans if possible. I’m also look at headers, preferably 1-3/4”. I’ve heard that most headers are built for a Chevelle but advertised for a Monte, but that fitment issues occur. I’ve seen American Racing Headers mentioned here, but $1500 is beyond ridiculous. Hookers seem to have issues, but I’ve seen Hedmann mentioned to be decent once or twice. Their website doesn’t show a Monte specific fit though. Basically, I’m looking for relatively inexpensive parts for a street cruiser with minimal fit issues. Does anyone have real word experience they can share on these parts? Thanks in advance!

Come out and make an offer on it! It’s a 1967 GMC C1500, was fully loaded new. I don’t have much into it.

Sort of both. I’m sure you can tell from the picture that I’m the most loved person in the neighborhood! It’s actually a throwback to when I built this stepside a few years ago: I’ve also had ‘H8PVMT’ on the off-road truck, ‘SCRWLS’, and the original ‘WLWBLY’ (WillowBilly) plate that was supposedly featured in the paper on the other lowered Squarebody I owned about a decade ago. I had a ‘68 Suicide Lincoln I wanted to get ‘6FTNDR’ for, but I sold the car to a friend before it was finished. I still should get that plate on something!

Nice, that’s a beautiful car! I haven’t been able to hit any of the shows this year unfortunately. I did have an off-white ‘68 Chevelle that was an unrestored survivor car out at the Bear Paw and Park Strip a few years back, and I daily drive a ‘91 C1500 “350SS” in two tone blue if you’ve seen that running around. I was so busy all weekend that I barely had time to unload it from the trailer. Here she is with the rest of the stable. There’s a ‘57 Chevy hiding behind the Suburban. The Squarebody in the garage is LS swapped. Fun times! The mounts showed up early! I snagged these off eBay new in the box for $100! I actually had everything bought before I even had the car.