502ci

I'm the same way, but it doesn't irritate me, just looks out of place... Even my racing set of wheels and tires had to be perfect "looking" to me. Knowing a skinny 26" tall front tire would be the best for drag racing and after purchasing it, mounting it, then putting it on the car I returned it and went with a skinny 27" one because it looked better to me. The front two wheels are on the left. Bill

I agree...plus for that price how could you lose...

For "my" car I chose a set of 255-60-15 for the front...they are 27" tall and have a 8.2" of tread. They look meaty and give the car some added cornering. Here's the only picture I have that shows the sidewall and tread at the same time. These are on 15 x 7" wheels with 4" of b.s.

I agree the 275-60-15 is the perfect sized tire at 28" tall...they say "if you can't put a wider tire on your car go taller"...the footprint increases this way as well. Although you now affected your speedometer if it was set up with a different diameter tire. Gear ratio will also be affected. I don't know if this is your daily driver or if you are into performance, but if you are into performance you might want to check out the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial...

You are on the right track with the 5" of b.s. It is the best possible amount to center the wheel in a monte. The 295-50-15 is a very wide tire having 12.2" to 12.8" of sidewall depending on the manufacturer... the fact you are choosing a 8" rim (smallest rim size suggested for that tire) you can take off maybe .4" of that amount. The tire is just under 27" tall depending on manafacturer again, which will help from rubbing, but I think it will still hit the lip if you do not trim it... Is your car sitting high in the rear? Regardless entering an angled drive will eventually cut your tire on the sidewall in my opinion. I have a 325-50-15 tire on mine with a trimmed wheel lip...you could not physically fit a bigger tire on a 70-72 monte than this...other than tubbing... Bill

Those sure are some exact measurements... Make sure you get them perfect, I've seen judges whip out their pocket rulers and check the glove box... Sorry, I couldn't help it. Good to get such an exact answer when looking for help...

Here's some info at about the middle of the page... Link

Which is no fun to add on a big block "after" the motor is installed...I had to use a mirror...

On my 502 it's tight also, but I have a 3" tall filter with an inch to spare before it will touch the actual hood (no insulation). I had a 4" filter but decided on adding the K&N open top filter for more air and needed to lower it to 3". On my motor it was only possible with this 1 1/4" drop base. (This photo pops up quite often)

Looks extremely nice... Blends right in looking factory. The only thing someone might ask is "what is that little hole in the lens for?"

Bill, Glad to see that custom header work didn't slow you down in the quarter... An 11 second daily driver is pretty cool...

I purchased a set of Moser C-clip axles and new axle bearings. The axles are like 30% stronger than stock and you can see where it comes from as the shaft does not taper. The bearings also were huge compared to the factory ones I removed. I found out fairly recently we have a FGMCC member (Monzaz)that sells axles and related rearend parts and he only lives a few miles from me. He lists parts in the for sale section from time to time. Here's his profile... Monzaz

You mean they were 2" primary tubes... I guess you had to do what you had to do... Bill

Oh yeah...Hello Lisa...long time...stop back more often. Bill

Welcome officially to the club... I can`t remember my first post but I snuck in with no introduction myself. I also didn`t want a big deal when I first started to post...I have since opened up here and probably spend too much time here...

A girl named Lisa thast used to be on this site asked the same question...if I remember correctly she eventually made an attempt to remove the clear plastic and it cracked or shattered... I`m not sure it can be done.

Here's a photo of the closest point of contact with the steering shaft and the 2" primary tube. I did unhook the shaft on the one end to make the header install easier and as you can see it has never touched the shaft...man, I got to do some touch up on that paint... (note...that is a piece of grass on the tube).

Nice link Buster, That is my track, I do not recongnize the car though.

So that is where these marks came from... Seriously though, you should of taken pictures...

I`m not sure which axles you purchased...stock or aftermarket. Moser has decent C-clip axle that doesn`t taper down like the factory style ones do. They run $235.00 at Summit, and are like 25% to 30% stronger. You can see in the photo how they are even in diameter all the way down. "I was under the car yesterday and noticed a little leakage from the pinion seal. I know the nut is on real tight, but is it OK to take the yoke off and replace the seal and then reattach the yoke? Or do you have to replace the crush collar any time you take the nut off?" I was always told to replace the crush sleeve...but I tried to get away without doing it when I replaced my pinion...now I got a leaker . I would not mess with it you might make it worse.

Jared, I think those referrences were to the quote above, because I drove my car over a year with my large Hooker Comp`s and never had any contact with the linkage... I have since converted it to floor shift...

Another benefit from the shorties is you have the ability to tuck the exhaust up tight as it exits the engine compartment. Long tube headers go all the way down to the collector and then you have to deal with it, this was the limiting factor when I lowered my car...too low and the flange scraped on bumps... As far as noticing it with the seat of the pants on a mild street motor...probably not. But I still think you could measure a difference at the track...maybe a 1/2 a car length to a full car length. Too many variables to accurately say, so that is just a guess...

I tried those super comp`s also (2" primary, 3 1/2" collector) and they would not even clear the the driver side A-arm...I momentarly thought about cutting it (the A-arm that is) then I came to my senses... The passenger side seemed to be okay though. I finally installed hooker competition headers and they fit well (2" primary, 3 1/2" collector). I would suggest a smaller diameter though for a mild street motor...which should have even more clearance. Bill

My old holley blue came with a rubber mount and it was very loud...maybe it would of been even "louder" if I didn`t use the rubber It couldn`t hurt to use a rubber mount, actually it`s recommended because of the vibration. Even though my new Aeromotive pump is drastically quieter I still made my own rubber mounts...using four 1/2" sections of hose. Inserting bolts through pump mount holes (4 total) and using the hose spacer between pump and frame mount, compressing them slightly...works really well.

With a mechanical pump it is not as important because you are running it from the motor of the car (quite powerful), although it doesn`t hurt to use it. With an electric pump (running off the battery...not as powerful) with no return the pump is pushing the fuel against the dead head style regulator and has nowhere to go when at idle or low speeds. This a strain on the pump making it run hot and not efficently. When it has a return the fuel has a steady flow even when the carb doesn`t need it the fuel flows constant with some going back to the tank. The fuel acts as a coolant for the electric pump as fuel passes through it cooling it. And when it is always moving it keeps the pump happy.