502ci

I had the holley blue and it was noisy, it never occured to me to hook up the return to quiet it down... You will have to let us know if it works as I`m curious now...in theory it makes sense.

Placing the regulator in front of the carb as Sam has stated is ideal (gravity under acceleration), particularly if it is a race car. Now as I say that I will show you my newer set-up...I put mine to the "side" of the carb. This goes against what "I" know about extreme high performance... ...but it was the only practical location with my return style regulator that I`m using. The larger line on top is the feed, the smaller one on the bottom is the return, and the two on either side are the carb feeds. The feed and return go over to the backside of the inner fender and drop down to the body mount disappearing "into" the frame, running the full length of the car to the tank. Lines are even hidden in the frame as it arches over the rearend.

What are your goals in performance? If it`s basically stock and you are not going for all out power you can get away with your stock lines. Here`s a photo of my old set-up, the regulator is mounted below the alternator to the left. I went from my hard (factory line) to a rubber line to the regulator and then up to the carb with a rubber line (you can see it pass in front of the valve cover) into a hard line (dual feed) with a pressure gauge. On this set-up I didn`t use a return line but it would of been easy to come out of the regulator to the factory return line as it is only a foot away. Even with my factory lines my car was running 12.04`s at a 112mph (a decent mph so it wasn`t starving for fuel at the top end).

I used a air grinder and took off a little at a time which meant putting the wheel on, lowering it, and taking it off again quite a few times. I also applied por-15 to seal the bare metal forever. My wheels are 15x8 with 5" of backspacing with 325-50`s with a 1/2" of lip clearance (has never rubbed even with the car sitting low). 1/4" to 3/8" clearance on the frame that has rubbed a little on hard turns but does no harm.

Here`s a view of my lip that I trimmed...I took off quite a bit and there is plenty left. I have a 1/2" of clearance on mine but my tire and wheel combo are completely different than yours. I think you will have to trim alot less than I did.

I did not know these were the same wheels you had on before with the smaller tire. Then the answer is easy...if you had a 1/2" of clearance to the lip then with this new tire you will have just over an 1/8 of an inch of clearance... Here`s how I figured it out...your old tire has a 10.5" of sidewall on that 8" rim, the new has 11.1, a difference of .6, divide this by 2 getting .3 You had a .5" clearance now subtract .3" leaving .2" of clearance...trimming will be necessary...

On the 28x11.5 MT/ET Streets they have a section width of 11.10 inches on a 8" inch rim. This is the measurement you will be concerned about. Now on the Weld Draglite having 4.5" of backspacing it will put you close to the outer wheel lip. 5" of backspacing is ideal but the 4.5" may work, for sure it will clear the frame but as I said it will bring it close to the lip, is trimming the lip an option? Because that will make it fit for sure...hopefully someone will chime in and verify a fit with no modifications... Also when I`m figuring if a wheel will fit or not I`m always referring to the sidewall clearing the lip and frame, even if the suspension was fully compressed. I never say it will fit if you have to lift the rear to keep it from hitting the tire...

On my 97 vette it has factory stainless exhaust manifolds, (almost a header by design) anyways the heads are aluminum and the bolts and stainless manifolds look like the day they came off the assembly line 9 years ago...

I`ve been reading all along but could not reply because I didn`t know how to remove it myself...

A roll cage? Plan on some sub 10 second runs... Are you after the extra safety versus a 6 point roll bar? I`ve seen kits for a monte some where...been awhile since I`ve looked, probably was the same part number as the chevelle, I don`t remember. I came to the conclusion that I would have it done by a professional, custom made with nice bends tight to the body, actually seen some ones at local shows that at first glance you don`t see the bars.

This is true, when I think about it I used to have my lines running to the radiator then to a tranny cooler with a fan. I installed a new Be Cool radiator without tranny provisions and had the lines going directly to the tranny cooler and this is about the time I noticed an increase in initial warm up time on the tranny.

I didn`t know the tranny took that much longer to reach its temp. , that will be on my list this Winter...tranny gauge... I didn`t think you floored it until it was warmed up..I knew what you meant...

Everytime I first get in and start it up the tranny acts like it`s a slug till it warms up (3,000 stall) I`ve yet to install a tranny guage so I`m not exactly sure at what temp. it starts to act normal. It actually freaked me out when I first drove it. As far as the motor, I can tell mine wouldn`t want to be floored until it is at operating temp. (never tried it) but I can say it would fall on it`s face. Once warmed up everything runs perfect, crisp response at all times... Are you saying your car reaches operating temp.(motor) quicker than the tranny will reach 100 degrees?

Are there underdrive pulleys on the car? If anything you will "downsize" the pulley, this will speed it up at idle but may speed it too fast at cruise...not sure on what size though.

A few months ago someone was talking about doing this same thing.

There is no way it could be cheaper than the one I got... But now I`m on a mission to actually see an aeromotive one. This is the one I keep getting to come up...

I`ve already purchased a sumped tank but was curious about the aeromotive one (still can`t find it on the site) some how I`ve seemed to of missed it. What key words do you insert? I just keep getting their universal one and a fuel cell.

I thought they were the same except the filler neck length may differ. Where did you find an Aeromotive sumped fuel tank for a chevelle even? I looked everywhere even at Aeromotive...

I have tried the phenolic 1" spacer in the picture. I currently have a dual plane intake on my 502 that has a slight area removed on the divider (factory). The car ran immediately 1/10th slower at the track. I kinda blame the fact my open air filter top was now up against my hood, restricting air flow. I removed the spacer at the track and my times increased back to normal. Mine was a bad test with these factors involved. I believe in normal circumstances it would help.

I new it, gonna go for the 9`s, looks like you will have to baby it on several practice runs...then let her rip on the final run that will get you warned slow down or else. That will be my plan any how...

Ahhh, now I know how to beat you Sam, just catch you on the street then I can hammer it while you just sit there spinning.

This is true...

Here`s a picture of the control module in my car, it can be seen on the left below the tach, it is mounted under the dash with double sided tape. Also I put two lights on top of the steering wheel in the center. The one on the left will light up red when the overdrive is off and the one on the right is green and will come on (as the red one goes off) when the overdrive is on. Helps alot when you are doing fast shifting.

I keep hearing the Mickey Thompson drag radial is best right now. I myself will try them for my street tire when my current ones wear out. The one draw back is on the street when you go to do a rolling burnout (to show off) these type of tires hook-up so it appears to every one that you don`t have as much power .

Wallaby... Yes the drag radial is worth it if you don`t go with the slick, yes you do heat them up. I don`t go in the water but haze them to get them sticky. If I`m doing it for a photo then its a John Force burnout