CrazyDavey

these are sensitive topics Rod...very, very sensitive...

good..they are on the conservative side...again..outstanding!!

congrats Greg, I was told you had a new bullet coming. Those peaks are nice a low so you won't have to beat on it at all. 716 hp uncorrected is outstanding and with a correction factor of only 4.8% those are real solid numbers....what kind of dyno? that looks like a DTS sheet....

yesterday one did....

great job Mike!!! gotta love those Coan converters...I finally talked by bud Dal into one for his car....he was always low on MPH and I think this is gonna fix it..I owe you a phone call....

Vaughn the guys have hit it pretty good....re-curve the disto?? it has nothing to do with idle once the initial is set...look at the carb/vacuum...especially the carb since you had it worked on....

geez yeah Mark.....lot's of passes between then and now....been quite a learning experience...

well let me know what you are thinking and I can help you with some budget numbers...I can get with Chris and discuss the whole car and we can come up with a good plan for you to maximize everything....and yes...change the intake and ditch the Eddy carb....we can probably add a 100 hp to that thing and make it drive nicer...that might be fun...

well your curmudgeon cheapness aside.. .... sense this is kinda your "fun" car (and you can save the old parts) I would start collecting quarters in a mayonnaise jar and do it right. First some aluminum heads will get about 80 lbs off the nose of the car and second they are a lot more tolerant when it comes to detonation issues. Next I would get with Chris Straub and have him design you a nice roller cam specifically for your application. Even at 11 to 1 pump gas should not be an issue with properly designed valve/combustion timing events. Dart make a 121cc oval with a 275 intake runner that would be perfect. Brodix makes a 119cc with a 270 intake runner...many choices out there....I could help you with the Dart and Straub stuff....

thanks Dennis...good discussion...

Dennis first you need to get the casting number from the heads so you know which ones you have and the chamber sizes. The easiest way to knock down the compression without going into the short block is using a head with a larger chamber. GM made many, many versions of the BBC head so there are some maybe not so expensive possibilities there. As Mike said the thick gasket is not a good idea because of the quench increase which would actually make it worse off. Once the heads are off you can measure the deck height and see what you have, this is information you need anyway to select the correct gasket thickness when you put it back together. The quench (deck height + gasket) should be in the .035 - .045 range...

you should come down for one of the Nostalgia races Royce..lot of cars there you would probably like....the schedule is on the Woodburn site...

it is very complex and theoretical Dennis. My feeling is that the science of IC in it's pure form is probably pretty cut and dry, math is math. It's the massive variables some of which you mention that muddy the waters to some extent. Most will not argue that ideal is using all energy to move forward, makes perfect sense, the issue is how to do that with the various combo's, suspension types, power levels, rules packages, tire sizes, etc.... Whenever this topic comes up on forums the discussion gets hot and heavy and for the most part I usually stay out of it. My car for example is a very small window of a certain combo that needs some specific things to work well. The guy in the lane next to me has a totally different set of needs/requirements so like fingerprints I don't think two cars are ever exactly the same. I do think though that the general consensus is that an A body car with stock suspension at my power/weight/tire level needs a fair amount of wheels up to move the car forward at it's optimum. This is where the fine lines and trade off's come into play. I have back time slips that say if the front is kept down more (trips the 60' light with the front tires) it will be just a bit slower than the higher launch tripping the light with the rear tires. So long story short you have to use the different principles and apply them as needed for your car. Through 100's of passes this is where I am with mine and I'm sure it will not end here but continue to change as the car does. Here is a still from the video...that cone on the ground out past the tree is the 60's cone...you can see how far out we are..

well there's a ton of info like that Dennis if you Google "Instant Center". There is a lot of theory and of course practical application to the whole thing but you're right...sometimes it just comes down to having a "feel" for it and just common sense. The instant center (IC) is a bit on the short side with my car so it hits the tire a little harder than most but my car seems to like it. It also is a matter of what the track can produce so I can get away with it at my track because it's well prepped. There is adjustability in the attach points of the control arms and the ride height. After that then you are into springs and shocks to make it all come together. It can be a science project but I try to not let it get too far and kill my fun with too much analysis. Actually it's not scary at all, at least so far...the car has been very predictable and had always gone straight so I trust it. The actual feeling when it does its thing is sort of slow motion, reminds me of when I was still flying....low G turns and pull outs... exhilarating...

yes his car tends to come down harder than mine, mine actually came down harder than it usually does on that pass...I was caught up in the moment and shifted into second later than I normally would. No it's not really desirable but a certain amount of bounce is unavoidable, just needs to be somewhat controlled. That's usually done with shocks, travel limiters and shift points. For my car which is considered a long wheelbase car (115") it needs every bit of weight transfer it can get to make a small tire hook (10.5") and it needs to keep it back there as long as possible. All my suspension parts and adjustments are designed to help do that. Dal's car is considered a short wheelbase car (112") so it can over rotate if it gets up too high and unload the back tires. That's about as high as my car will go, his will (and several times did) go higher so he needs to control it more than I do. He's on the same tire but there is a point of diminishing returns in his case. There are many fine lines that can be crossed when setting up these cars, knowing when you're at one is the challenge.... here's one that got away from Dal a little..

thanks everyone...we had a blast all weekend...the car was dead consistent...made 7 passes over two days all within 3 hun.... Rob it was a TNT so there was no race really..just having some fun and making passes for Dal's license. Rod Red doesn't use a tripod...Dal had a slightly better reaction time on that pass.....058 to .067

My best friend Dal came up here this weekend so we could get some racing in together and also so he could get his racing license to run faster than 9.99. We had a blast and the cars worked flawlessly all weekend. Thought some of you might enjoy us running together for a pass at Woodburn...This is the picture of the launch and also the vid Red shot that goes with it..hope you enjoy..