Toppless72

Pat, Very often, the tools used to manufacture auto parts have multiple cavities so several parts can be made in each machine cycle. The number "1" could be a cavity number. M2C

I don't know if this is relevant but to install a handle or crank, 1. Put the clip in place in the slot on the crank or handle. (The open end of the clip should face the crank arm to the inside) 2. Hold it in position 3. Push them on together as a unit. It's easier than searching all over for them after they fly out. LOL

The third spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on the front bearing getting locked down by tightening the fan nut. The force is only clamping to the front of the rotor. By tightening the nut you are pulling the rotor towards the front housing and bearing. That is where it seems to become tight according to your description. The spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on this. I still think Rod is right.

I think Rod hit it. There are 2 spacers. One behind the fan and one following the front bearing retainer. Tightening the fan nut in front places no bind on the rear of the unit. You can remove the rear housing via the four screws and the front housing and bearing assembly remains just as tight. The stator floats in the rear housing where the brushes are.

My 1971 Skylark is stainless and my 1972 Monte is black. Both have the map light.

I believe it would be: Tonawanda plant dated April 6th 1971, 402 4V 300 H.P. for a 400 turbo transmission. 1971 passenger car application. As for the numbers match to your car ???? That other number doesn't correspond to a Vin. number with only 5 numbers. 1L1 I'm not sure on that either. My 2 cents

Actually, this guy is pretty smart. He never really says it's "Original". The only thing he's lying about is it has no Compass, Interval Wipers, Trip Odometer, and that it has both a 4 speed and an automatic transmission. The only other thing I noticed as strange is the VIN lists it as both a 1971 and 1970 if I'm reading it right. Otherwise, a 1970 454 4 speed is pretty rare to see since we don't believe GM ever made one. We're all still looking for one but so far... It's obvious it's not original. I did like the green ashtray though.

I'd rather have the parking brake and room for my feet than a "pod" with speakers in the floor. Pull out the aftermarket stereo stuff and this would be a pretty good looking car.

My '72 Custom has the trim around the top leaving about a 1 inch space between the drip rail and the trim. It's painted body color in that space. I've seen them both ways. M2C

2 Cents This is what the wiring diagram in the GM service manual looks like to me (pages 12-71 and 12-72). You are correct. 1972 was the first year for the seat belt warning system on the M/C. Tan- gas gauge "Yes" Dark tan- brake warning light "Yes" Pink-seatbelt warning light "Yes" Brown-gen warning light "Yes" Green-high beam "Yes - light green" Light blue pair-left turn signal "Yes" Dark blue pair-right turn signal "Yes" Dark blue single- temp warning light "No - Oil pressure warning" Dank green-? "Temp warning - Dark green" Gray-dash lighting "Yes" And that's my 2 cents.

In 1976 I had a white '72 that had the dark saddle bucket interior and saddle top. I repainted it the midnight bronze that summer. After I painted it, people would stop me every where to see if I would sell it. It looked great! It also had 15X7 SS Cragars on it. It was the first car I ever had with a factory AM/FM radio and A/C. LOL I was 20 years old and thought I was hot stuff. LOL

There should be a black 10 gauge wire attached to the large stud on the starter. It runs up to the horn relay. That wire should have a fuseable link about 8 to 12 inches from the starter. Let us know what you find.

Of course you will have the large wire (0 or 1 gauge) from the battery that attaches to the upper stud on the solenoid (the B connection). Also there will be small a black wire (10 gauge) that will attach here too. Next, you have a purple wire (12 gauge) that attaches to the stud towards the motor on the solenoid (the S connection). Then you’ll have a yellow wire (20 gauge) that attaches to the small stud to the outside of the solenoid (the r connection). This is how it shows the starting motor circuit on page 12-68 of the 1972 Chassis Service Manual ST 329-72. Where is the 5th wire going and what color and size is it?

The door glass and the rear glass is the same. The quarter glass is different. Also, the quarter glass from a Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with the square roof is the same. Not the fastback but the body style that was used for the SX and simular models. Its the only other model that has the same quarter glass as the Monte. Here are the GM part numbers RH Clear - 7763312 LH Clear - 7763313 RH Tinted - 7763314 LH Tinted - 7763315

In order to get the brake light to go off you'll need to re-balance the spool. After you have a good solid brake peddle, you can do this by first opening one of your bleeder screws. Have a helper push the peddle down until the light goes off. If the peddle goes to the floor, and the light stays on, close that bleeder and repeat the procedure on the other end of the car. As soon as the light goes off close the bleeder. That should re-balance the spool.

Murph, That has to be the difference between 1971 and 1972. The system was used differently in 1971 vs. 1972. The 1972 manual clearly states the ISS is energized at all times with key on. I learned something today. During that time GM's engine management controls were evolving and this shows there are some significant differences in these systems. Well you could try turing your key on with the A/C in the on position and see if the solenoid pops out. That would be another place to start.

Murph, I’m not sure where to go from here. I only have a manual showing the 1972 systems and they may be a bit different than 1971. The picture you have in your last post is a TCS Solenoid. The carb. Vacuum is connected to the outer port while a hose to the distributor advance diaphragm would go on the inboard port. I’d be afraid to comment further if I don’t have supporting documents defining the true system layout. My wiring diagram doesn’t show a green wire at all that I can see connected to this system. I will say this... If you turn your key to the “run” position, the plunger on your solenoid should pop out and push the throttle lever open a small amount. If it doesn’t, it isn’t working properly. Check for 12 volts at the tan wires with a test light to confirm if it’s the solenoid or the power. If you have no power, trace it back from there and see where it’s failing.

Some of these solenoids do have dual purposes however; Murphy's question addressed the idle stop solenoid so that is what I commented on. He has identified an idle stop solenoid in his picture. It has no vacuum lines running from it so it is not controlling the spark advance in his case. The Transmission Controlled Spark system (TCS) has a completely different purpose. It controls the spark advance based on the conditions of: 1. Engine coolant temperature is above 82 degrees 2. Transmission in high gear. 3. The 20 second warm up delay relay has been met. If all that is true the TCS will allow ported vacuum to draw on the distributor advance diaphragm. If not vacuum is denied and there is no advance via vacuum source. I would like to correct one comment I made earlier. The idle stop solenoid by itself should only have one wire running to it... 20g tan. The idle stop solenoid is energized at all times while the key is in the run position. Murphy: If you change your carb to an Edelbrock for example, you could tune it to eliminate the idle stop solenoid if you wanted to. It was put there forty years ago to help the tremendous dieseling problem many car makers had at the time.

When your engine is idling, the throttle plates are slightly open. This is the normal idle setting. This is accomplished by energizing the idle stop solenoid. It becomes energized as soon as the key is turned on and remains that way until the key is shutoff. As soon as the key is turned off, the solenoid de-energizes and the throttle plates, no longer held open by the solenoid, close completely. This prevents any air from entering the engine and stops the engine from dieseling. It, in affect, chokes the engine to a stop. This is explained in detail on pages 6T-8~9 of the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual for 1972 “Emission Control Systems”. It appears that it is required for all engines regardless of the A/C option therefore, the wiring should be present in all the engine harnesses. The wires consist of two tan 20g wires and one 20g dark blue wire.

This motor is built stock top to bottom with the exception of the crank. It was turned .010 on the rods and mains just to clean it up. The bore, stroke, cam, heads, valves, and springs etc. are all the specs from papa GM. That's why I don't understand what could cause the studs to pull out on one cylinder. I was thinking of going to screw in studs but I would still like to know what caused the studs to pull out in the first place. Thanks for your input.

Need some opinions. I have a 350 Cu. In. 4 Spd. in a Camaro. Last night it started to miss. Long story short... It has pulled both the intake and exhaust rocker studs out of the head about a quarter inch. I could understand if it were on various cylinders or two intakes etc. But, why both studs on the same cylinder and nothing else? These are the studs where the rocker mounts and the valve adjustment is made. Any ideas would be welcomed.

420ponies, I believe there is another 30 amp circuit breaker under the hood near the horn relay that feeds the accessory fuse. It would have a 10 gage orange wire with a black tracer running from it. It is circuit number 60 on the wiring diagram. If I am correct that circuit breaker could be failing. Check it out and let us know what you find out.

One thing I learned after 34 years in the auto parts manufacturing business... It cost the same to make a bad part as it does to make a good one but the bad one costs more to fix.

Jim, Here is what I'm getting on a brand new Republic therm sw. Craftsman VOM / Fluke VOM S-B 16.7 / 16.2 B-C .4 / .3 S-C 17.1 / 17.5 After 3 checks each. You may want to look at your S-B again.

If I understand your problem... When installing the spring compressor on the spring don't hook the arms on the outer most coil. leave one coil at the top so that when you set the spring in the pocket you won't be trapping the compressor arms between the spring and the pocket seat. Like I said, I may not be understanding you problem so... for what it's worth, my 2 cents.