snomobeelr

anybody know what size Moons fit the 15x8 Rally Rims? Looking for somthing like these : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Baby-M...mtr#ht_75wt_909

The needle nose didnt work for me either. I ended up getting the tool below.. The nubs for the holes could be a little longer but it worked... Thanks Carl for the info to get off the window chrome and rubber that worked great... http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-81-GM-window-...mtr#ht_71wt_671

Mike, I ll have to look to verify which side I have tonight. I am definatly interested if its the side I need.. I let you know. Thanks

Thanks guys, I thought I had an NOS pair in Storage. Turns out I only have 1 NOS door handle.

Thanks guys, I just ordered a tool it was $18 free shipping. Now I have to figure out how to get the chrome strip and rubber seal off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-81-GM-window-...0de&vxp=mtr

Got new glass for the car. Any hints on removing the hardware that is mounted on the old glass. So I can install it on the new glass is greatly appreciated. Thanks , Alan

I am looking for new Door handles. Is it the "You get what you pay for"? Or is it same with diffrent prices? These are : $88.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-72-Pont-Chev-Outside-Door-Handle-Set-Made-in-USA-Pr-/290526764187?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1971%7CModel%3AMonte+Carlo&hash=item43a4be9c9b&vxp=mtr#ht_4631wt_806 These are : $60.00 (free shipping) http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOOR-HANDLE-KIT-OUTER-CHEVELLE-70-72-MONTE-CARLO-OUTSIDE-/140920260408?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1971%7CModel%3AMonte+Carlo&hash=item20cf808738&vxp=mtr#ht_590wt_671 These are : $85.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oam-4155/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle These are : $42.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmk-4031-440-66s/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle

I just went through this. I went with the Brodix Cylinder Heads Race-Rite Oval Ports.. Everthing bolted fine. Stock bolting locations. I also got alot of help and parts from Crazey Davey and Dal. Great guys and alot of help... I got the Bare heads and Davey got me the rest. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-2060000/overview/

Are all there any reprodution Door seals that are better or worse?

Putting doors back on. Cleaned the Latches of all grease and Debris. The unit is nice and clean but one issue. I was about to install it but noticed some wear. Some wear I mean the metal is worn Through. Attached link to pictures of issue below.. I am assuming the Latch will be no good. Are the Repo's any good? Or am I better off finding a Used one.. http://s1343.photobucket.com/user/snomob...043412502468351

Hey Guys, I forgot to mention all the glass is out of the car. Cant remember if I had tryed the steel wool. I had always used newspaper. Not that it is going in soon, but I do not want to put the glass back in if I cant get the glass clean... Rod I didnt see your procedure. That picture shows blank?? So what should I try ? Would it be better to get a buffer and try to polish / buff out the glass? Thanks Guys

The glass from my car has never been clear. Always has like water spots on them. Is there a way to remove this. Can it be buffed out of the glass without runing the glass?

From what I have read if this site is correct it is actually the electrical system in our cars. Check it out http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

I checked the vacuum using the Port on the carb that is hooked to the vacum Advance. I have 7 lbs at idle and 15 to 17 with a load on it. I was thinking I had a vacuum leak when I pulled that back vacuum hose off and the idle came up a bit and sounded better.. I always thought it would run worse if vacuum line not hooked up unless there was a vaccum leak.. Maybe its a wise tale I had heard,,

Not sure if I have Vacuum leak. When I pull the big vacuum hose that goes to vacuum booster and breather off the back of the carburator the idle acually picks up, Increases ?? Shouldnt the engine run crappier, not better ?

I saw the plastic bushing on there. But appears it was cracked or somthing. Only reason I took alternator to Autozone to test it in the 1st place is it was Sunday. The Place I get my Alternator and starter's (Morton Grove Electric) is closed on Sundays. Had my Wife take it there today. They guy said the pose shorting was the issue. My wife called while she was still there because he wanted to know if I wanted a 1 wire alternator. Since the car is not going to be original I said that would be good. So should be ready when I get home.. Thanks Everyone

So I got the alternator tested and it was good. Then some more testing and Called my cousin who had the same opinion as Rod. With the battery out of the car. And all the wires diconected from the Alternator.. One end of Multimeter to the Stud on the Alternator and the the other end to the Battery Ground cable - BEEP BEEP. There was continuity/Short.. So looks Like it is the alternator.

So I started off Like Sam said from the wire that goes from the Junction block to the Horn Relay. But wasnt sure how to proceed. The only thing I know how to use on the Multimeter is the Speaker/Continuity test. So then I disconected the Horn relay and same thing issue - sparks. I then disconected the last wire that was hooked up,the red Wire to the Alternator. I disconected the red Wire to the Alternator and tried to connect the battery and WALLA that was the one. I connected the Horn Relay the starter and I can connet the battery no problem. So the issue appears to be somthing with the Red wire to the Alternator now i need to figure out why....

I had tried the Old fahioned way not on purpose of course and the thin wire from the Positve Battery cable to the Junction block in the core support is the one that fried.. I

I have the Ground cable for the battery hookup to the passenger side head on the engine. I also have secondary ground small wire to the core support. There are no new electrical parts. My Car was running and driving prior to the start of a frame off Resto. Its a 1971 Monte Non A/C car. I had replaced the wiring harness (engine&interior) back in 1994. I pulled everything off and out of the car. Right now the Body back on the car but no feneders, wheelwells or doors yet. I Put the motor/Trans entire drivetrain and core support back in .I Put the dash and wiring back in. I am fiannly ready to start the car. When I went to hook up the battery for the 1st time is when this started. Prior to doing any work/restoration I had replaced the aletrnator with an Internal Regulator Alternator and removed the external Regulator.. The car was running fine with that configuration when I started the project. Two things I know I did while putting car back together is I shortened the alternator wire , there was an extension plug I removed. I also had plugs for the accessories like oil pressure temp and stuff on the loom that I am not going to use. So I cut the plugs off and taped up each individual wire.. I disconected the engine to the interior harness and same issue. Ill pull the radiator to make sue I didnt pinch anything...

1st of all I am horrible with electric. I am putting the car back together eveything was apart. I just got a new Battery. When connecting the Battery it sparks. Not those small connection sparks but a short or somthing. I disconected the starter wires and it still shorts. I disconected the Engine to the interior fuseblock and it still shorts. Thought I was maybe being paranoid so I connected the battery and the small wire from the Positive Battery to the Junction on the core support fried. I do have a test light and Multimeter. Here is a dumb question when battery not connected and I do a continuity test with the multimeter from the Ground cable to the positve cable there is a connection. This is using the speaker option on the Multimeter. I am assuming that is the issue. I have the ground for the battery to the engine block. I also have a small ground wire from the Negative battery lead to the Core support. Any suggestions appricated

Awesome thanks guys.

Anyone have any diagrams or picturs of how the brackets are mounted to the front and rear bumper. Mine are in pieces. Thanks

Thanks Guys. So could I place an in-line fuse in there instead of a fusable link? Car isnt stock or Factory Restored. Anyone have a picture of the Bolt for thr battery tray mount to the Core support Braket and core support? I am in the process of putting it back together. I also got the steel wheel wells instead which I heard will need some tweaking. Thanks agian

There is a small block on the passenger side Mounted on the core support behind the battery. Between the Battery and Radiator. There is a red wire from the harness to it. Is there supposed to also be a wire from the positive side of battery to it as well ?