dejh22

I forgot to say, I'm putting one together for my son. I had the block crank and rods. I bought the camel hump heads, cam, oil pump, Intake, carb, water pump, aluminum pulleys and brackets, after market stock type oil pan and timing chain cover, timing chain gears, overhaul gasket set, lifters, new stock rocker arms, push rods and other odds and ends. I do not have the total of the machine work yet. After all is said and done he will have a nice looking 355 with all new parts for about $2500. That could go north, depends on the machine work. Dale

Depends on how much money you want to spend. Also if you will be running this at the drag strip? If you are looking for some get up and go power and a good street machine I have a combo I and friends have used for years. We take a 350 block like you have and bore it .030 over. Which now makes it a 355. All blocks have been two bolt mains. The intake you have is good as is the carb. I would use 64 cc heads ( camel hump heads cast # 461 or 462's) with flat top pistons. This combo will give you close to 10-1 compression. You will be able to use pump gas. I always use premium. The cam I use is a comp cam 268h. Plus I use a high vol. oil pump. To help the cause, some good rear end gears are helpful. I'm running a 355 gear. Like I said this is a good budget build. With lots of low end torque. I'm not sure what HP this combo produces, never had one on a dyno. My guess is some where north of 350 hp. Now if you are looking for something to really turn some HP, there are others on here that can help you more then I can! Dale

Here you go.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Monte-Carlo-/162244742252?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25c68a4c6c:g:UwEAAOSwB09YCjL2&item=162244742252

Thanks. I will be ordering the steel lines. The lines from the master cylinder are in good shape. I'm just going to let them stay. I already replaced the proportioning valve. I was reading an older post on here about the proportioning valve sensor wire plug was different. They stated that they took a razor and cut back the boot. So I did that and took a pair of pliers and squeezed the connector together and it worked. Pushed and snapped right in. Seems to be a good connection, Time will tell.

Well, going to return the kit I just bought. I just don't think I want to attempt to bend all the lines. I'm now going to order a pre bent line kit from inline. The good news the old brake lines are off. I did not remove the master cylinder lines. Not sure but I think they are bolted some how behind the brake booster? They seem to be solid so should be fine.

You said it was a new rebuild. Do you know if it is an after market oil pan? I ask because where the timing chain cover and the oil pan come together there is a "horse shoe" rubber seal. There is a thin one and a thicker one. Most all after market oil pans use the thicker seal. Then again some stock pans use the thinker one also. If the wrong seal was used it will leak. Here is how to check... Place a straight edge across the pan rails measure down to the bottom of the lip of the oil pan. If the measurement is 2 3/8", use the thick seal, if the measurement is 2 1/4", use the thin seal They made a seal change, thinking the thicker seal would seal better. Dale

I found a kit on ebay. The lines are straight and will need to be bent. http://www.ebay.com/itm/152261302183?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks Rob. I did use the search option on the site. I didn't find the info I was looking for. The cost of the one pre made line would cost as much or more then the material to make the all the brake lines on the car.

I was looking under my 71 Monte today. I noiiced some moisture on the driver side frame at the very front. It is right below the proportioning valve. The valve is not wet. it is the line that runs to the back. It is hard to tell exactly where because the line is wrapped I a steal coil cover. I found some line on ebay, "Copper Nickel Brake Line" It is 3/16 O.D. My question is does anyone know if that is the correct size? I plan on doing the one line to the back for now, but would like to gather all the correct fittings and correct size line or is there another size also? I only do a little at a time because I have Parkinson's and can't knock out projects like I use to. So If anyone could help me put a list together, I would really appreciate it. Thanks Dale

Do you have a vacuum gauge? Might want to adjust the carb?

Years ago when I rebuilt the 350 in my 71 Monte had it bored .30 over (355). I went with a 270 comp cam. Edlebrook performer intake. I also went with hooker headers and a Holley 750 equal bore carb. Forged aluminum flat top pistons. I had a pair of camel hump heads (461 casting number) which is about a 64cc head and 194 valves. So I was at about 10:1 compression. I had a 350 transmission with a shift kit. The torque converter was a little larger than standard. I went with 355 gears. I tuned it (carb and timing) with a vacuum gauge. It ran just fine on pump gas. No problems with vacuum. Just as a side note...About 8 years ago I built a 383 for it. I like the original rebuild (355) better. Just my 2 cents worth Dale

This is the system I'm using in my 71. The only problem I have is the car doesn't get driven anymore. The battery has gone dead a couple times. I did this about 8 years ago. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/electrical-one-wire-alternator-conversion.html

OK now for the rest of the story. I did use the crowfoot line wrench on the bottom line. Then came in and gave you my update. Had an appointment to go to, so when I got back went back out to take off the top line. Well the crowfoot wrench didn't work on that one!. So I TOOK A PAIR OF SIDE CUTTERS AND CUT THE LINE! Deep well socket on a swivel and just like that it was off. The next time I come here and ask for advice, I will wait to see if anyone has any ideas. Like I should of done this time! Thank you Sam!

The wrenches came to day. The wench worked like a charm! I used a long 3/8 extension with a swivel. So those of you that have a tight spot to work in (headers in the way) and want to keep your lines this will work. The easiest thing to do would be to cut them if you are replacing them. Dale

I do that a lot

After thinking about it, I think if I were to remove the header I might be able to use a dremel with a cutting disc. I already ordered a set of crowfoot line wrenches so I will try that first when they get here. I will post the results.

Not sure if there is enough room to cut them. I'm going to try a Flare Nut Crowfoot Line Wrench 3/8"drive.

I 'm going to replace the trans lines on my son's 72 Monte. In my younger years I was able to get them loose at the transmission. I tried to remove them today. With no luck. The car does have headers and the header is in the way some what. Before I start making more work for myself, does anyone have any advice, tricks on how to get them loose? Thanks!

I think you may be well educated It is not driven often. I think today makes the first time it has been started in over two years. My son is getting out of the Air Force and taking a job in Taiwan! So it will not be drive anytime in the near future. I plan on cleaning the engine compartment. I will also install new aluminum pulleys, flex fan and new power steering pump with new hoses. Change the oil with some 20-50 weight extra zinc oil and oil filter. Cover it up and call it good.

Hello, I have a question about oil pressure. My son has a 72 Monte with a rebuilt 350. He bought the car in Louisiana when he was stationed down there in 2007 or 2008. He had someone do a short block. He did the rest. He would call me and I would talk him though it. Kind of like in the movies were a passager is trying to land the plane. I have rebuilt a fair share of chevy engines. I wish I could of done this one. I have always used a Melling high pressure, high volume oil pump. I do switch out the spring so it is not the super high pressure. Always have had good results. I told my son to tell them that is what he wanted. So he did. He got it all back together. I should get a pic of the engine compartment....what a mess of wires, trans lines run wrong. The neg cable should only be two ft long and he has a 6 footer hooked up. But I'm proud of him for "winging it". He drove it around down there for a year or so. He told me that the oil pressure was good when cold. The oil pressure would drop to about 10 pounds at ideal when hot. He shipped the car home to me when he was transferred to Alaska. He has been home a few times over the years and would drive it around. I got it started today and moved it to my other garage so I could clean up the engine compartment. We talked about the oil pressure issue and I told him I could change out the oil pump so we would know what we had. When I started it the oil pressure was near 60 pounds. Which it has always been when cold. I'm having second thoughts about changing the pump. My gut tells me that there is something else going on. Bearing issue maybe? All mine engines would run around 20 pounds at ideal when hot.