MonteCarLois

Hey gang. Just a quickie. Did '71's ever come with a floor shift manual, but without buckets or a console? Inversely, could you order one with buckets and a column shift automatic? Thanks.

I run a 402 with solid mounts (that sit the same), an Eddy Performer and I could fit a 2" carb spacer with a flat-based air cleaner without clearance issues. I do run a drop-base air cleaner, but only because I think it looks cleaner to hide the carburetor.

You'll have a good time playing with your rear end. You asked about adding a part to your carrier for a 'posi'. I'd guess you've considered mini and full spools based on price. Let me tell you right now, stay away from them. Unless it's a full race car, you will surprise yourself one day if you spool it. Unless you're making regular passes at the strip, you don't need a positraction. Yeah it's cool to make two marks on the pavement, but the way to tell when you 'need' a positraction is when you are putting so much power to the ground that you can roast both tires with an open rear end. If you do decide to go with a positraction unit, I strongly recommend a factory style for the simple ease of replacability and time tested reliability. Also, if you're going to open it for any reason, always replace the seals. It's just cheap insurance. One other thing... why would you use the boxed control arms? Are they awesome? Totally, but you don't really need them unless you are running a 3500 stall converter or higher. One other thing... if you do go with another carrier, Trax, stock posi or what-have-you, it is only 'required' to adjust the backlash if you change gears sets. If you use your original ring and pinion, no adjustment is necessary. I know this may sound goofy, but think about it... the carrier centerline is always the centerline and so long as the replacement carrier is machined properly, the geometry is the same. Oh, and if you do swap the carrier, one piece of advice... red loctite is your friend, but only on the ring gear bolts. And believe it or don't, the bolts do NOT need to be totally free of oil. Just wipe the bolts off, add a couple drops, torque to spec and have a nice day!

I don't have a real answer other than yes, '71s with anything smaller than a Mark IV could have had either 8.2 or 8.5 10 bolt rear ends. It really was a production thing where they used whatever was in stock at the factory. Either is fine for a street car, but get a 12 bolt before you head to the track.

Rochester Quadrajet carburetors are the simplest and most reliable carb on the market. Your book should give you an engine displacement spec for the carb body to determine the application, but once you settle on one, there are a few really cool tricks you can use to fine tune one. Obviously one would adjust the needle jets on the primary, but you can also modify the jet needles on the secondaries to allow greater fuel to air ratio when your foot is in it. I actually use a Holley just because I think it looks tough and tuning parts are easy to find and replace, but once you get a Q-jet dialed in, you shouldn't have to touch it or worry about it again! One thing though, they are famous for worn and vacuum leaking throttle shaft bushings. If you don't trust a used (untested) unit, get a rebuilt, they always press in new bushings on the remans! Good luck. OH, and don't be affraid to dink around with the accellerator pump linkage, this is a tuning tool, not a spec. Ric

What about plaster for a fiberglass mold?

That's the one-piece front clip from Glasstek? It's marvelous! Yes, HP to weight ratio is where I'm thinking (in the middle of the night, lol). And the F.A.S.T. cars are what I'm considering. There's a guy I know in Lake Orion who has a beautiful Hemi Challenger who wins almost every race (that he doesn't red-light) and it's very cool!

Yeah, geez, I can see why. It sounds a lot like casting an engine block... sure it just takes some sand and hot iron, but to finish the project, you might as well manufacture them. I'll think a little simpler, thanks! Still open to diet plans...

Just for fun, I'm ruining my very solid '71. She was a boring, bench/column, 350/350 that needed paint and some cancer repair. Still nice, but boring. I stabbed a hot 402 in her and now I'm doing the body work and putting her on a major diet. I won't go into each and every detail, but she should loose between 500 and 600 lbs. That and the new 12-bolt and taller gears should put the Mudstains on alert. She's still under construction, but I had a question... Does anyone know how to make a fiberglas mold? I know I could just buy the front clip or fenders/hood, but they're incredibly expensive and since originality is out the window, I could make the inner fenders part of the fenders, play with the hinge, blah blah blah. I even considered a lighter style front clip or ?????? Any thoughts on the diet or any other off-the-wall custom ideas????

Oh, great. That was easy. Thanks!

1st shift.

I found it: KDC 130 1 Thanks! So... it's a 2.73 made in Buffalo, in April, great. Now how do I know if it's a 31 or 33 or whatever spline axle?

Oh, the FRONT side... Hold on, let me check...

I got the 12-bolt out of my donor car and I'm cleaning it up. Scraping off the grease, brushing off the rust and I'll be damned if I can find the stamping in the axle tube. The rust isn't that bad. Where should it be? I know this is the original axle from the '71 but I'm not finding the code stamped on the back of the axle tubes, where it usually is.

I don't know the book, but I've spent years of trial and error playing with Q-jets. I've always appreciated that no matter what adjustment you need to make, you never need to go deeper than the top-bowl cover. Holley's can be a pain, what with removing the bowls to replace the accel pumps and so on. I run a Holley now and I think I'm going to ditch it, just because you recommended this book so highly. Thanks!