Knightrider

Just bought a rebuilt one myself with a variable ratio 13:1 to 16:1, 2-3/4 to 3 turns lock to lock. Was expensive. I'll let you know how it works in about 15 more years when I finish the car.

Thanks for the offer, but I've set my mind on the Moser, its what I wanted originally but I was just being cheap. Wife actually gave the go ahead to spend the dough if you can believe it. Told her it wouldn't be safe if I built it myself

I stewed on it for a few days, read through this book And decided to just bite the bullet and get a 3.08 moser assembly with an eaton posi. Going to also upgrade to rear disc, but haven't decided on a kit yet, looking at Right Stuff. Got the rear removed on Wednesday. That sucker ain't light.

Sadly, I believe it is the more expensive one which is needed. The cheaper one is the lock right which is supposed to be for off road and race vehicles only.

Awesome, that sounds good. I'm going to get one ordered next week. Do I need to order a special install kit with it, or it comes with everything?

How would that handle on say a twisty road, I'm reading mixed reviews. Some say they are super noisy and lots of wheel hop. Other say just a light clicking when you turn.

This video is awesome

I want to upgrade my 12 bolt 2.73 open rear end (Code is CKD 0323B1) to a posi unit. But I want to keep the gears, 80-90 mph is typical on the freeways around here and I don't want the motor screaming at those speeds. I understand this is fairly simple and I should not need to readjust backlash if I leave the gearing alone. First Question: Is this the appropriate carrier to use click Here. It does not list application as passenger car, only truck, but the note says that 2.76 is the high end of uses for that carrier and 2.73 is pretty damn close. The carrier that they list for passenger cars click here has 3.08 as the highest gear ratio to use. Not sure which one to buy Second: Do I need any other parts or special tools. Maybe the cover gasket, washers, etc... 3 foot long monkey wrenches complete with rented monkey? Thanks in advance.

my early 70 (halo trim) had 4, came with a 400/400 combo.

they sell for $250 to $400 without a rebuild on my local craigslist, so if thats worth it to you for a few hours and some crawling around in the dirt go for it. I know I would.

Congrats on getting your car finished Jared, it looks awesome and sounds like a beast.

I got mine up to "N" on the gear selector about 8 years ago. I'm guessing 135-140. 454, TH400 with 2.73 rear. No hood on the car, probably could have gone faster with less wind resistance, but maybe it would have taken flight. I used to routinely hit 90 in 2nd gear, so I'm sure it could get up to 100 before shifting.

So I decoded my rear end, all but the last digit. Code is CKD 0323B1 (the 1 is upside down?) So I understand this is Chevy 2.73 gearing built march 23 in buffalo, but what is the upside down 1? Any reason to keep the rear end just for originality's sake? Was going to get a moser assembly, but now I'm considering having this one rebuilt how I want it.

Nobody seems to want to respond, so I will throw my opinion in here. I think the first thing to do would be to drive the car to a few different body shops, speak with whoevers in charge and give them a clear picture of what you want. Get at least 3 different quotes, and get a feel for the quality of work they do, then go from there. Keep in mind that the quote you get could change if they start sanding the car and realize it is a bondo bucket. I personally think a $3000 paint job will look like crap, I would say a conservative estimate of $7500 is more in line with reality.

Van Nuys Plant Early Production with full halo top Gray/White trunk