TrunkMatt

Need some help... we are having trouble sourcing block-hugger headers that fit the Square Exhaust ports on the Alum Heads of my 383 build: We've tried about 6 different sets of standard / oval & D shaped... nothing fits quite right... Can't really find SQUARE in the shops here. I am afraid of ordering online as they are hard to return if they don't fit right. If anyone has any advice to a Block Hugger, ceramic coated header that matches square port aluminum heads on a small bock --- I'd love to hear it.

You make a good point... I guess we are assuming the idle is set correctly based on his knowledge that he posted. But, yeah - it Could just be an idle speed adjustment. What RPM is it idling at in Neutral / Park?? Do you have Tachometer?? Depending on your cam you should be between 800-1000 rpm in park neutral, and 600-750 in gear with brakes on. I like mine at 975 in neutral and 700 in gear... but I have a cam that needs a bt more idle.

Quick fix: You can also try running your vacuum advance to your distributer off the manifold vacuum and see if that helps keeps the timing advanced enough... if it does & things work better you know you have a weak vacuum off the other port & your timing is a bit off. I used to have this problem on my Qjet where the vacuum was low. It was my Quadrajet ports & vacuum leak. It needed a rebuild... it happens when the internal plug holes are not sealed correctly and you get some internal leaks when idling when warm at stoplights etc. While I opened up my Qjet for repair I put an Edelbrock 650 performer on and it went away... and idles a lot smoother... so I left it off. I love the power of the Qjets though. You probably need a carb cleaning / needles adjusted for idle / and a complete rebuild of it. Should be between $100 - $200 at a good rebuilder of Q Jets.

Yeah - even this small furry creature knows about the dangers of Fram Filters.... check out the response when I asked "Should I use a Fram Filter?"

Windage tray mounts like this:

Okay - on my 383 build I am going to use this pan: My question is --- should I use a cranksraper or a windage tray as well? How much do these actually help if it is a 95% street car??? I hear you can get a few more HP... but really, does it make a difference for street / strip?

Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm when warm.... I get maybe 5psi at 750rpm idle when hot. Since your start / cold pressure seems fine etc... and your running pressure seems close - I am going to bet on your guage not reading low pressures correctly, or that it is off by 5psi and the spring doesn't work right, or it needs calibration. Maybe before you get too into the thing, buy an Oil Pressure test kit from Harbor freight that allows you to test on-block: http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

If it isn't ovrheating with the thermostat off, it sounds to me like either a thermostat issue, or a flow issue where the water-pump isn't circulating fast enough... maybe there is some debris in it? I know you said you replaced the thermostat, but many people have had multiple issues, even with new ones... seems to be a poorly made part these days.

Washed off some tree-gunk that gathered... took it for a spin out to the pumpkin patch & beach... enjoyed one of the last good cruising days left before the rains come. Now it sits covered until the engine swap and storage at the end of october.

Precisely why I am having my Mechanic and the guys at PER (http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/) handle this for me. I gave them the information I originally wrote on my intended uses and scenarios --- and they provided me the spec sheet I posted. It is a custom cut cam... however, to double-check what I am getting -- I am just curious on everyone else's thoughts on the provided spec.

Great comments everyone - thanks for your feedback!

I'd say also have a hard look at your carb... I have a similar setup as you and lost a ton of power when I switched to an Edelbrock 1406 I went from a Q-Jet to an Edelbrock... and I no longer have the "off the line" power. Before I switched, my Q-Jet had me lighting up the tires everywhere... the edelbrock is just starved. The Q-Jet has those nice Massive Secondaries that dump TONS of fuel / air. IMHO - the Edelbrock 600 Performer Series are just too conservative. Great on the highway... not for the stoplights. You can, however put some money into the Edelbrock and get it there -- it just needs new needles, a bigger pump-shot, and lots of tuning... Honestly - better off buying a re-furbed Q-Jet --- I'll be putting mine back on once it is rebuilt.

Here is everything on the spec sheet: .050 TIMING ---------- BTC: 0 ABC: 34 BBC: 49 ATC: -5 .050 DUR. ----------- INT: 214 EXH. 224 LASH HOT ----------- INT. HYD EXH. HYD LOBE CTRS. ----------- INT 107 EXH 117 VALVE LIFT ----------- INT .444 EXH .466 CAM LIFT ----------- INT .296 EXH .311 SAE TIMING ----------- BTC 32 ABC 76 BBC 81 ATC 37 SAE DUR ----------- INT 288 EXH 298

So it'll fit my needs you think? Have a bit of a lope with decent low end torque & HP... but not cause me to do a million upgrades to support it?

.050 DUR INT 214 EXH 224

So, my mechanic is recommending the following Cam spec's for the 383 I am having built: Hydraulic Cam SAE Duration: INT 288 EXH 298 Valve Lift: INT .444 EXH .466 CAM Lift: INT .296 EXH .311 Break it down for me what to expect. I said I needed something street-able, as I am not going to race this (maybe once in a while at track night for fun). I want something that provides enough vacuum to not have to run a canister, and something that would keep me from needing a new stall converter on my TH350... yet gives me the torque / grunt of my 383 with a nice lope. Good choice of Cam??

When putting on a new exhaust don't forget the whistle tips! WOOOWOOOOO!!!

I'll be in Manhattan... near Times Square

I know, I love the dream cruise. Been going ever since I was a kid. Unfortunately, I have to continue on toward New York on the 15th, and then fly all the way back to Portland on the 20th. :-( A big part of me wants to work my schedule around the dream cruise... and pull out my '72 Torino that is sitting in storage near the Ford plant in Dearborn. Damn work commitments.

Yes indeed -- will be up near detroit the 10th - 14th

That's awesome -- I am going to be there Wednesday or Thursday...maybe I'll run into them.

The contact at the GM Heritage center I am speaking to about my video project game me an interesting link for all of us to get AMA / manufacturing info on our cars direct from GM: http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html It is an wealth of information. Full options numbers, codes, production information - you name it. EVERYTHING IN PDF FORMAT. I haven't seen any of this referenced in such a complete package before.

Awesome bit of history!

Today it randomly pulled out a bunch of wires I figured were not important. It still runs, so I am guessing they were not for anything critical... Kidding... they were to a stupid aftermarket alarm the old owner installed. I finally got all the crap out, splices removed, and put everything back on the original wiring harness. Next thing to figure out is the blinkers --- only the TOP BULBS blink in the rear... however all of them work when using the brakes or when turning on the lights. Weird... I was hoping undoing this mess would fix that.... but to no avail.

Today I finally got the car into a shop that can help me with the transmission kickdown cable. Replacing it was more than I could handle on my own, as it involved raising it up, and dropping the transmission pan. You couldn't get at the thing without doing that... and I don't have the right space / tools for it...