Blue502

It must be a nice feeling to have the motor sitting in the hole.I've never seen a driveshaft lengthened.Let us know what happens.I've always wondered if any pickup had an aluminum shaft that could be cut down.I can't think of many vehicles that had a longer driveshaft then our cars.;)It's too bad you are so far away.I don't know if it would fit but I will be replacing my shaft from a 700 4R. Here is some good info on late model/older model transmissions. http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/815618-th350-th400-frequently-asked-questions.html

You're fine as far as the 350 holding up.The main advantage of a 200/4R is that it saves you from changing the rear gears and increases your mileage.If you can't afford it this year you could do it later.A gear and converter is one of the biggest seat of the pants difference you can buy.

A lot of Super Stock cars use a full length header and an extended collector.That tells me that a certain length collector makes more torque/power then a mid length header.A street car with less cam may take a shorter collector.I've never seen a shorty header on any Super Stock cars.If there is not a major price difference then I would get a full length header.

That looks like a nice kit and Trick Flow is a well respected name.I would imagine they base their numbers on a car that has headers and a decent dual exhaust.After that,maybe next year,add a 200 4R with a 2400 stall.With the overdrive you should get back some mileage and have a quick street car. You might consider a leakdown test before you commit. Good luck. PS.With that pic of Mike's car you know what your car will look like at the track.

A well built 200 4R will work as an overdrive and be lighter then adding a Gear Vendors and cheaper then also changing your gear.

You have to consider Dave that race fuel is not purely a detergent cleaner,were Seafoam basically is.If you took all the pure gas and other additives out of race fuel you may find you actually have less cleaner then is actually in a bottle of Seafoam.Just saying.I know we are cutting hairs here and you really need to decide how much carbon/dirt is getting in your motor between those 3 fill ups.Now if you buy a used car from some old lady who hasn't whacked the throttle since the last time her old man grabbed her by the knee,then these cleaners would really help.I like GM Cleans left in overnight.I sure won't be doing it once a month though.I was cleaning a couple of sets of used pistons I bought last year.I tried every solvent,race fuel and Methanol I could find.I found leaving the piston in a can 1/3 full of Cleans worked the best.Let the pistons sit in the can for a couple of hours and just wipe off the carbon.They came out like new.Of course adding race fuel is always a good excuse to take the MC out and let her go.

I wouldn't waiste my money.Every couple of years a new plug comes out that makes more power and gets better mileage.Check with most racers and you will see maybe 4 different brands that have been out for years.Get a set of NGKs and be done with it.Forget the race fuel.Adding rocket fuel to your lawn more will not make it cut grass any better.I'm not trying to be sarcastic.It's just the simplest way to explain it.Too much race fuel with low compression will actually slow you down.

That is flying for a streetable SBC.If I was doing one I would be PMing you for details.Add a 150 shot of NOS and you would have one bad boy ride.Especially for a big MC with a SBC.Leave the car dirty,add some goofy looking wheels and some bad header leaks.Do your best Cable Guy imitation and guys would be lining up to run you.

Are you racing the car?Why do you want to lose some weight?25-40#s for a $600 hood is not a great deal.

Are you racing the car?Why do you want to lose some weight?

Funny you should mention that Mike.One thing I always noticed with race fuel like VP leaded was that if you spill it on your hands,a couple of minutes later there is no smell on your skin.Spill some Sunoco or any street unleaded and your hands stink for hours.I guess it has something to do with all the additves.I personelly love the smell of leaded race fuel.I ran unleaded 114 about 14 years ago.Yikes!That stuff is nasty.So many additives to get the octane up.It smells like some alien bug spray.;)Since Meth injection came out I haven't used race fuel in a long time.

Nice MC.Listen to Dave.He knows his stuff.I test him on a regular basis.

I have a 6.0 in my 03 Silverado SS.Amazing truck.The fan is a thermal clutch style.A tank from a 86-87 Gramd National will work and is almost a bolt in.Used originals are tough to find.If you pull the sending unit and look in you will see a white plastic barrel that is part of an intrakit baffeling system made so the pump does not run out of fuel when the tank is low on corners.Some of the cheap aftermarket tanks had a saucer type sump stamped in them and didn't work too well.The better tanks have the baffeling so make sure yours does.There's tons of info on doing these swaps and almost every part for every car to make everything bolt in.GOOGLE. Good luck.

It's no big deal.You just need long studs which you can get from Summit or GM and then run billet aluminum spacers.Hey.I just happen to have a set! After that you can run some C6 brakes.That would be slick. I just sold a set of Z06 reproduction wheels.I couldn't give them away.They where almost mint and I had to let them go for $300.

It must have been replaced at one time.

Thanks. I'm surprized no one has posted this link.Good info.I don't know why it hasn't been updated. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28454&highlight=corvette+c4+c3+c5

My 72 has 4 wheel disc brakes which were installed back in 99.I don't know what make they are but they are only single piston.I'm not impressed with the way the car stops so I'm thinking of an upgrade.I want to keep my 15" wheels.Has anyone upgraded to a GM dual piston caliper and did it make a difference?I know C3 Vette calipers are fairly cheap but I don't know if they fit or can be made to fit. What pads do you guys like?I don't care if it's a soft pad and wears out fast.I guess with a soft pad brake dust will be a problem.I'm also considering going to a hydroboost unit. Thanks.

3" Flow Throughs no H or X pipe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSo4Pl1dD4k

Looks nice.

OK.I've heard of them.I've been through Akron a bunch of times. Friends of mine are near there.Red and Jane Armstrong.They own Quad Air and specialize in GN parts.Red is very smart and owns one of the fastest GNs in the country.I raced at a small local track there once.I can't remember the name but it is about 200 miles outside Akron. It must be nice living close to Summitt.

Cool.I had my own shop for over 25 years.All I did was GNs.What is your guys name?I appreciate the offer.I stay loyal to my suppliers and they take care of me.

How much does his car weigh Paul?I would rather spend the extra $400 to get my 400 done with a warrentie, then to run one that is almost stock.My MC has a full frame added to the stock frame.I'm sure my car is well over 4000#s.I also like to leave with full power on the brake and be assured I won't be breaking anything.Just piece of mind I guess.All the power to you and your friend if you are getting away with stock parts.My car will make 750+ on the motor with a V1S and I may hit it with a small shot, if I am not happy with the numbers.We'll see.If that doesn't work I will go to twins and that will really put a strain on the drivetrain.I've ran 200s well into the low 10s.Not a chance I will put one in a car this heavy.

That's a good deal Andy.My guy is one of the best in the country.His 400 will cost $1250 and it will take a 450 shot and slicks. The 6.0 is a great platform for big power.You will need forged internals to go that fast though.I like the block because it is iron and the 317 heads work well right out of the box and keep compression down.The stock crank will handle 1000HP but I'd rather have a Dragon Slayer or something close.I just sold my TTI twin turbo C5.It made 717RWHP but only ran 9.9s @ 144 on pump gas and Meth at 14#s.If I could have hooked it would have gone 9.5s or quicker if I had turned it up.It was a real street car and I drove it from Toronto to FT Meyers.Over 1300 miles and yes the AC worked.I've made lots of passes at Gainsville and Bradenton.My winter place is about 30 miles from Garlit's museum just outside of Ocklawaha.

6K is for the 4L80E with all the best parts.Guaranteed to handle 1000+HP.That was also with all electronics.Stock 400,mid 8s?Hmmm... I ran 8s for 10 years in a heavy GN.23#s on the brake off the start.After a full season and over 100 passes we pulled it apart.You could still read the writing on the clutches.Those 400s are cheap and strong.I would still never chance hurting my motor with a stock 400. http://ls1tech.com/forums/small-block-big-block-chevy-specific/1492924-test.html

I disagree Mike.When built properly the 200 is a tough trans.There are lots of 3800 GNs in the low to mid 9s with a 200.They also make a real cheap trans brake for a 200 that works great.You just put the trans in 1st,mash the gas and shift into 2nd.Bang.If you do get one built make sure your guy knows his stuf.I asked my trans guy about doing a 700 and he said don't even bother.I don't know which is stronger in stock form.I have a built 700 with a 3500 converor in my MC.It is for sale.I'm going to a 400.