geartech

But she'll look so purdy you'll want to marry her all over again! Looks great so far...

Yes if you're reusing the same gears and carrier, then you should not need to change the shims. Just be sure to get the new pinion bearing races all the way into the housing, you can check with a feeler gauge to make sure they're seated. No questions are stupid, I have the benefit of being a mechanic for 10 years and then changed careers, but people sought me out to do differentials after that, to the point I did it as a side business for a while("geartech"), and basically got burnt out on it. Here is something for you to read and look around on this site too. http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/HowTo/...nstructions.pdf

It was just a longer reply than I set out to type, I guess. True that you have know what you're getting into, and the wherewithal to make sure its done right. Its expensive generally even to do it yourself...

Yes, sometimes you have to make a pinion shim adjustment but not always. I always start with the one that was in there. I'd say about 3/4 of the time you don't have to change it. I have a hydraulic press and bearing splitter to pull the pinion bearing off without damage. I think this might be the type of tool you are referring to... Bearing Puller They work well but are a bit pricey. you put the right size collars around the bearings and body of the tool, and use an impact to pull the bearing off. A shop I used to work at had one and it was slick, but I went the way of owning a press as I can use it for other things. Depending on your tools and the room between the pinion head and the bearing cage, you can ruin a new bearing when you press it off, sometimes it happens. As far as knowing if you need to change that shim, there are a few different situations... --You are putting in a used gearset or a new on that has no markings. You have reassemble everything and check the pattern to know what to do. Take it all back apart and adjust the shim, and repeat...very time consuming, but sometimes has to be done. If you are putting together something that's already been taken apart, or otherwise don't know shim to put inthere at all, there is a list of 'starting point' shims that I have out in the garage if you need it, like if I remember right, a 12 bolt should be .030" shim, at least that will get you close as a starting point. --You are putting in a GM gearset and it is marked +1 or -2 or whatever. This means you can compare that marking to yours if yours is original. This refers to the amount that is off from a GM standard when they checked it. So for example, if your old pinion is marked +1 and your shim was .031", and your new (or used) gearset is marked +3, you'll need a .033" shim. -- You are putting in a Richmond gearset (for example) that has the "pinion depth" marked on the head of the pinion. Like 2.657 or something like that. That is the distance between the centerline of the carrier to the head of the pinion, This can only be checked with a special tool, a type of depth micrometer. If you have it, you can put the pinion in (with the bearing pressed on and a starting shim in there), check the depth and if its off, you only have to press of the bearing once, as with the reading, you'll know how much it needs to change. whew, sorry for the long reply. I can explain more if you want, I've done alot of rear axles.

Yes, they just push back in. They are not expensive new... National Parts Depot part number C_5387_1 $2.81 I have an extra one if you don't want the hassle of ordering, I can throw it in a envelope to you.

Sounds like the distributor is still not in the right spot, does that page make sense or I can try to explain here. Also maybe double check the firing order.

Do you have a test lamp? If so, refer to this picture and try these steps. A couple things come to mind also, like checking that the regulator itself has a good ground (painted radiator support, painted bolts, etc.) and that the bulkhead connector at the firewall isn't causing a problem. Or a Junction block. (think about this if it fails step 1) Since you've replaced those things, I'm guessing its going to fail step 1 (no light on terminal 4), which means voltage isn't making it to the regulator, to get the charging started. https://picasaweb.google.com/117653687786097080973/December252011#5697700706952987458 1. Disconnect connector from regulator, turn ignition ON. Connect the test lamp from the connector terminal “4” to ground. a. If test lamp does not light…check circuit from ignition switch to regulator connector. This includes the ammeter/idiot light. b. If test lamp does light, problem is the regulator, alternator or wiring from regulator to alternator terminal “F”. Go to step 2. 2. Connect test lamp from regulator connector “F” and “4”. a. Test lamp lights – problem is in regulator. b. Test lamp does not light – problem is in wire between F terminal on alternator and F terminal on regulator – or – the field windings in the alternator. Go to step 3. 3. Connect test lamp between regulator connector “F” and alternator terminal “F”. a. Test lamp lights – problem is in open circuit between “F” terminals. b. Test lamp does not light – problem is in alternator field circuit.

try this link, there are zoom and full screen options in Picasa... https://picasaweb.google.com/117653687786097080973/December252011#5696827460509496418

sounds like its still off. Here is the service manual page for installing the distributor when the engine has been disturbed. Hopefully following this will help...If its too small to read let me know and I'll try something else.

I do it a little differently...I scanned the service manual to show the procedure you can use to adjust the rocker arms. Basically you can adjust half of them on #1 TDC and the other half on #6 TDC. I used to just have the valve numbers on a piece of paper in my toolbox back when I was a mechanic. Hopefully the scan is readable enough...hope it helps. You can also do it cylinder by cylinder if you want. Basically the theory is to have the camshaft in a position where the valves are closed (TDC works, or the chart), then take the play out of the pushrod and tighten it 3/4 to 1 turn more.

Have you seen this? Its 1.99 through Amazon. Its pretty good, though its a partly a commercial for OPG. But its all on lowrider Monte Carlo's. http://www.amazon.com/Monte/dp/B0020UJ1N...d=2KMBXL38H69QH

Good advice here...I'd start with checking those voltages, it will give you an indication of where the problem is. One thing to note that in 72 they started using a 10SI alternator which is the internally regulated one...however it still had the external regulator on the radiator support behind the headlight, and used it. The alternator had a spacer in place of the internal regulator so it didn't have one in it even though it looks like an alternator that did. Just mentioning that, so that doesn't bite you.

If you're interested in learning about rear axle set up and other topics, this might be interesting to you: http://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalHelp/PartsHelp.aspx I've done alot of differential set up and used to buy wholesale from Randy's, and I thought his articles were decent when he would send them monthly. They seem to be archived on that page above, so I thought I'd share the link.

Thanks, I hope it turns out, you never really know until its painted. He's going to do a little finish work and paint, should be a couple weeks probably.

The final check of how the hood fits looked good today. Here are a so-so picture...Hopefully it will be midnight blue the next time I post...its off to the body shop for paint tomorrow.

For gas gauge problems its nice to have a resistance box. You can disconnect the fuel gauge wire (going from memory, a tan wire in the back of the trunk) and put the resistance box in as a substitute for the sending unit. It helps to determine if its the gauge or the sending unit. Here is the one I have, it is a kit you have to solder together... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=320-076 For example if the sending unit is supposed to be 0 ohms empty and 90 ohms full (which I think these are supposed to be), then you can substitute those values on the resistance box, and see what the gauge reads. (or anything in between, like 45 ohms should be approx half tank) If it acts properly, your gauge and wiring are ok, you'd need to look at the sender. If it acts the same as the problem your having, you can save yourself from pulling out the tank, because it must be the wiring or the gauge.

This has been a long project and I hope to finally finish this...just thought I'd share... I'm pumped at the thought of getting this done. About 7 or 8 years ago I bought a damaged Chevelle SS hood, it was a repro, but it was the functional one. I cut out the center and welded it into a Monte Carlo hood. It took quite a bit of time to get the bottom bracing right using pieces of the Chevelle hood. And there it sat, and I ordered all the pieces to have the cowl induction doors work, and the rear trim. Then, about 5 years ago I did the bodywork, and got the hood very close to being ready to paint. At that time, I had a shop behind my house that I worked in. Now, with no garage but the one on the house,(and no room in it to work on this) I'm taking this to a body shop this week to get finished and painted. Tomorrow,(probably) I'm going to test fit it on the car one more time, to make sure there are no alignment issues. With any luck, the paint will match and I can start to work on the air cleaner to make it truly functional. Its something I've always wanted to do, but haven't found the time, but its time to make the time! A new year's resolution, so to speak! Mike

Way back when, when I first found the build sheets for my 72 Monte, there were many sheets under the rear seat, in addition to the correct one matching my car. I suppose a guy on the assembly line cleaned off his clipboard of ones he forgot to put in or something! Anyone else encounter this? I'll post them here, just in case (a long shot) someone is looking for theirs. These are all from the Leeds Plant in Kansas City. 72 Monte 1H57J2K631904 Mulsanne Blue - to Omaha, NE 72 Monte 1H57J2K617267 spl order Tuxedo Black pnt code 19 (not listed as available in 72) - to Omaha, NE 72 Malibu 1D37H2K661644 Gulf Green - Rushville, IL 72 Malibu Conv. 1D67H2K645657 Orange Flame - South Bend, IN 72 El Camino 1D80J2K645653 Antique White - Ft Worth 72 El Camino 1D80J2K617266 Mohave Gold - Appleton, WI Note that the Gold El Camino and Black Monte are in sequential order. And the Orange Malibu and White El Camino are just a couple numbers off from my VIN. That sure gives me a cool vision of those cars rolling down the assembly line in 1972! It also seems to say the KC plant didn't have a dedicated MC assembly line... Mike