geartech

I've also seen ones that are different, without those clips, just the sticky stuff and some tabs. Mine is like this, here is a pic:

Was anything unusual done when it was built, besides the manual VB and stall converter? Generally speaking, its not a problem to change the converter without rebuilding it... as well as change the valve body back to a stock one, some other aftermarket one, or rework what was done to make that one manual. If the trans is generally working ok (no slipping, etc), you should be able to just change the valve body to a street/strip automatic one, or a stock one. If you buy a new one, I'd follow their instructions on the check balls to have in place and use the valve body plate supplied with the new valve body.

A machine shop should be able to do that.

I don't have the cast shims in that size and the thicknesses you need, I can help with a set of super shims if you want to go that way.

What are the inner and outer diameter of the shims you have? mostly the outer diameter. I'm having a brain fade as to which ones they are. I don't really keep track of which ones are for which rear, as I usually have one in my hand to compare to.

super shim packs (2 zip tied together):

You have a couple options, you can find other cast shims that are a different size (.005 thicker), or go with what they usually call a super shim. You used to be able to go to the GM dealer and order what size cast shim you wanted, but they do not have those anymore. A super shim kit is another option, I can take a picture to show what I mean, its hard to explain. It's 2 thicker shims that fit together, with a selection of thin ones in between, that way they dont get destroyed when you put them in. So use whichever thin shims you need in the 'pack' to get it to the thickness you need. I have a super shim kit I can send you if its what you want, also I may have the cast shims, I'd have to look later. So you would be shooting for .245 and .265, is that right? As far as whether you need more preload, if you can turn those shims by hand, then you don't have any preload, you can probably lift the carrier right out? (without prying) Sounds like you're on the right track with .005 per side additional shim to give you some preload.

what type of carrier shims do you have? the solid cast ones? or the aftermarket type, that are two thicker shims sandwiching thin (varying thicknesses) shims? If you have solid cast ones and you try to put a thin .005" in with it in there, it will just probably destroy the thin one...

I haven't been keeping up with your thread, but that looks nice now. I've never had any luck with 'fitment' bearings, except for a pair of Dana 60 carrier bearings I've made like that. They have very thin shims under the carrier bearings so they work well to set it up and then press them on once. For pinion bearings, I've never had any luck though, like you said.

I just had this happen to me (replaced the gasket twice) in a Lemans I have with a TH400. It turned out to be the dipstick tube O-ring, not the pan gasket after all, although it looked like it to me at first. Also the modulator is right there too.

Yeah, as long as its in the range, even .012 or a little more is ok if its a used gearset. If you want to get exact about it, drag racers will generally go tighter, even .004, as they are only going 1/4 mile at a time, and want maximum gear contact. But then something like a one-way moving van should be at the looser end of the scale for the most gear oil between the gears, as they get very hot for a long time. .011 is perfect for what you are doing, or what I imagine anyway (some highway). Something set up too tight and driven on the highway won't last. Ideally, since you are using a used gearset, I would go for what it had (within a thousandth or two) when you took it apart (assuming no major problems when you measured that) so that its set up into the same pattern. But that's getting picky really...as long as its in the range. For what its worth, the gearsets I've re-used in the same housing like that, generally don't require any shim changes from what you took out. Not always, but most of the time. For the brand, I usually look for valvoline, but it really doesn't matter. 80W90 is the good ol' normal gear oil. 75W90 is synthetic, would also work. 75W140 is synthetic too but isn't necessary unless its a truck with some weight involved or towing.

You are not going to have any problems with new bearings/new crush sleeve and 20-25 in/lbs.... The thing is, its not an exact thing to begin with. Once you break in that rearend you can't say it will be 20 or 15 or 10 in lbs. Tapered bearings just have to have a slight preload and it goes without saying that a gearset is picky enough that it can't have any play in where the pinion could move. To compare, when you go to put in the carrier, you will be putting shims in the sides where the (tapered) bearings are. These are the shims you use to adjust backlash (and preload on these bearings). You will have to have preload here as well, but there is no way to measure it. You just have to be sure the shims go in with some force to put preload on the bearings. How much force is not really describable, experience will give you that. They have to be put in with some force and the carrier should have to be pried out if/when you remove it. No way to measure the rotational torque there. Its good you are concerned you are doing it right, that's the only way you'll be successful with a rearend setup. But I think you're on the right track -use 20 lbs with new parts and it will be fine.

Yeah, I wouldn't use that either, if that is the 'right one', that would not set a dependable preload. That looks like a BOP 8.2 crush sleeve. You should be able to get the right one from Randy's Ring and Pinion or the type that someone pointed out for changing the preload to shims instead of a crush sleeve...

Yes, the inch pounds setting is the rotational torque. With a crush sleeve it is set by how far you go tightening the nut. Have to be careful because the (new) crush sleeve with be difficult to crush at first then it will go quickly. I've only used my dial type torque wrench (inch-pounds), or by feel once you done it alot. You could probably find a deflection type inch pounds torque that will get you close enough. Generally speaking, the spec is about 20-25 in/lbs for new bearings and 15 or so for used bearings. This is because the finish wears off a new bearing right away, and it will be a very little less preload after it has ran. btw, I dont think a clicker type torque wrench would work at all for this.

Yes, if your axle bearings are pressed on (not a c-clip rear) then you have a BOP rear. In 1969 (I think) the BOP rear changed ring gear bolt sizes. I had a 69 Lemans some time ago, and I had that posi carrier vs ring gear bolt size problem. Chevrolet did put those in Monte's for some reason from the factory as other people have pointed out. Do you have the casting number from the axle housing? Or pictures?

An accurate way to check it is, to have wristwatch with a second hand and hold the car at 60 on the speedo as best you can on the interstate, in a section that isn't very busy. When you hit a mile marker, note your watch and where the second hand is. When you hit the next mile marker and you've been holding it at 60, it should be 60 seconds later. (60 mph = 1 mile per minute) Each change of the speedo gear teeth, one tooth difference results in approx. 4 mph change on the speedo (at 60mph) in my experience.

The best way is to use a press and bearing splitter, but often the carrier is too large for the throat of the press. I had to modify mine to be wider to accomodate most(not all) carriers. Rod's method above is a good one. Cutting it off with a cutoff tool is difficult, without nicking the carrier, but it can be done. One thing to offer that might sound silly, but wear safety glasses. When that splitter, or whatever method you use, is pulling on the race, it is likely pulling on the cage too, or at least putting pressure on it. This transfers some of the force to the rollers, which then push on the outer lip of the race. That outer lip can then break, or a small piece of it, and that piece will undoubtedly come straight at you. Just the voice of experience talking...

I do believe you'll need that larger red wire on the battery post, that should be the power to inside the car, and the alternator, etc. You don't have to align anything when putting the starter on, but there are shims that can go in between the starter and the block. Only if you need them. You put them in if the starter 'sounds tight'...I dont really know how to explain that or how it sounds. It just sounds like the gear engagement is tight and not smooth, you can slide one or more shims in above the starter. You can just loosen the inside bolt and remove the outer bolt and you can slide the shim in, don't have to take the starter all the way off. They look like this: I suppose there is a technical procedure somewhere to measure

I've never done it myself, but that diagram you have to bypass it, makes sense to me.

cardude, I just want to point out that there is not a regulator in the alternator picture you have there. You have a 10SI, that *should* be internally regulated but, that one is not. The white part on that picture is the brush holder, and underneath it is where the regulator would be, but there is a spacer there. A regulator look like this, note the orientation of the wire terminals: I just want you to know you so if you put an internally regulated alternator on there, you could be scratching your head if it doesnt work. With the alternator you have pictured, the regulator on the radiator support *is* doing the regulating. They did this while they were switching over from the 10DN alt to the 10SI alternator, basically 72-73 timeframe.

Could check if the R terminal wire on the starter (smaller, usually yellow) is touching the battery cable post, or those wires are touching or pinched. If battery voltage was touching the R terminal wire ...there would be 12V at the coil all the time and it would not shut off. (the R terminal is only to supply 12v to coil when cranking)

Yes... If I am not mistaken, if you have something like a Mallory Unilite (electronic) distributor, you don't need the R terminal wire - just 12V from the firewall (resistor/resistance wire bypassed).

On both starters, you have the main battery terminal obviously, and the "S" terminal(usually marked as such on GM starter) is the 'start' terminal that comes from the ignition switch, purple wire usually. Those are the ones that correspond to your new starter, the S terminal being the smaller one. The other terminal "R" on your original starter goes to the ignition coil+ (yellow) . The reason is...The wire going to the coil from the bulkhead connector is a 'resistance' wire. That is so it reduces the voltage to the coil to about 9V to lengthen the life of the points. The 14V from the alternator would shorten the life of the points quite a bit. But, the engine starts better without the resistance, because with the starter turning the engine, the voltage would drop too low to the coil. Therefore there is a terminal on the starter that supplies 12V to the coil while starting (the R terminal), bypassing the resistor/resistance wire. Other brands than GM usually use a 'ballast' resistor instead of the resistance wire to the coil, and its more obvious. For example, if you were to install an aftermarket electronic ignition (MSD or similar) they would instruct you to bypass the resistor or resistance wire. Basically then you would also not need the R terminal or yellow wire if you had electronic ignition. If you have stock (points) ignition, you'll need a starter with an R terminal for it to work properly.

So the blower fan doesn't work after you took the inside unit out to replace the heater core? The fan doesn't work at all? A couple thoughts - the relay on the outside is the high blower relay, usually the issue if only Hi speed doesnt work. If it works on Hi and nothing else, look at the blower resistor, which I don't remember if its on the outside or this inside with a/c, If I remember right, its on the outside(in engine compartment). Power runs through the resistor for speeds other than Hi. If it doesn't work at all, check for power on the orange wire at the hi blower relay on the A/C unit out in the engine compartment. If no power there with a test light, there is sometimes an inline fuse in that wire. Let us know what you find and I can scan some pictures/wiring diagram too if that would help.

My 72 (non-CA) has the supply and return from the sending unit, and then it has 3 vent lines that go to a separator. One other line from the separator is the line that runs up the to charcoal canister at the front of the car. The separator is mounted behind the back seat to the floor, and the lines come out of it through the floor above the rear axle of the car. The purpose of all that is emission control so gas fumes get re-burnt instead going out in the atmosphere. You'll probably need to just get under the car to make sure what you have. You don't need to pull the tank to tell what you have, as far as I know. If you're never going to hook up the canister, you wouldn't need the tank with the vent lines in it. If it was me, I would probably put in what it had in it, in case I wanted to put it back to stock. I have mine all hooked up under the car, with the line plugged that goes up the canister, as I don't have it on anymore. Also, the gas cap should match what system you are using, like a vented cap for no emission control, but if the vent lines and canister are all hooked up, then it should be non-vented. It is my understanding that the 72 system with the separator and charcoal canister was also on 70's and 71's sold in California. Here is a picture of the tank with the vents and the separator. The picture doesn't show the supply fuel line to the fuel pump, this is just the emission ("ECS") system.