kc8oye

you are going to have a problem with that mystery line because the carb only has one fitting of that size. that 'mystery line' is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster for power brakes. that small fitting in the intake with the two small lines is going to have to be replaced with one with a fitting for your power brakes, so that your PCV system can use the large fitting on the carb.. You really don't want PCV and power brakes sharing a vac line.

your vacuum modulator is on the transmission.. there should be a steel line going down the back of the engine on the passenger side to it. that would connect to that front fitting. if that line is already connected to the fitting in the back of the manifold, then you can bring the vacuum line from your vacuum pod over to that fitting, if you have a car that had A/C from the factory. looking at that picture labeled 'mystery line' I believe your vac. modulator and A/C are both connected to the intake.. so that fitting at the front should go to your distributor.

that's right.. you are learning.. no pics.. it didn't happen.

I saw a 60's mustang driving down the road one day.. and his lights were so dim I thought his alternator was gone.. turned out he had original non-halogen bulbs in it.. they were horrible!

yeah that's about right mike. the software with my wireless interface always shows me on channel 1. *sigh*

a 700r4 is not a rebuild for an amateur!!! a TH350, Th400 sure.. but a 700 is a beast with a bazillion small parts and very picky tolerances. you are better off to pay someone to rebuild a 700r4 if you've never been inside an automatic trans before.

didn't FGMC's come with Halogen bulbs? i thought we stopped using basic incandescent's around the mid 60's? I know leo has a number of Vintage used headlights that can be tested and shipped.. not sure what else you can do.

well that's why I'm wondering about maybe buying a WAP, connecting to the router's ethernet port and going that way.. I don't understand why it's just me tho.. I just updated the drivers for my adapter.. guess we'll see what happens.. i might pick up a cheap usb wifi device too and 'just see'. .maybe this adapter has issues I don't know. i know I'm fed up with it!

i've been considering that mike.. I'm using a NetGear WN311B 'range max' pci adapter that has an external antenna there are two walls between me and the router. (I'm in a studio apartment on the back of the garage) what I can't figure out is why it goes like gangbusters most of the time.. the just suddenly the router won't even answer it's pings. i have physical access to the router, i've tried resetting it but that doesn't do any good. windows reports my signal strength as good.. netgear's little app shows me I'm usually about 1/2 scale on the signal. It varries anywhere from 24mb/s on up.. tonight it actully dropped to 11.. but i still can't understand 20 second ping times between me and the router!!!

sounds like his sprag clutch is gone. the transmission is having problems 'over running' and that's never good.

then just as before, the problems just suddenly go away. I'm starting to suspect it might be a problem on my end..

mike.. it's not my router so I don't have access to it. the admin password has been changed from the 2wire default of '2wire' and for some reason, it appears that my computer is the only one being affected.. my cousin who owns the router says her laptop works just fine.. so I'm looking at my wifi adapter. Would be practical to buy a WAP and plug it into my ethernet port so I'm not wasting a PCI slot with the wireless adapter? (cabled connection is not feasible here)

if it works ok by ethernet, I might buy my own WAP and connect it to the router's ethernet and have my own wireless. Is it possible there is a problem with my wireless link causing this? I know I don't the greatest signal.. I'm using a NetGear RangeMax it only does 802.11g.. I'm wondering if I would do better with an b or an N ?

i know that. Wish I had some control over the router. it's an all-in-one DSL Modem / wireless router. it's back to acting up tonight even with the static IP. tomorrow I'm gonna break out the 100 ft ethernet cable and plug directly into the router and take the wireless side out of the equation and see what happens.

my chevy book says the vettes have their own unique water pump that's stort of a 'medium' 68 and earlier small blocks had the short water pump (alternator on the driver's side)

This is what was going on earlier... ping with 10 packets, I set the time out to 30,000ms (30 seconds) C:\DOCUME~1\ASHLEY>ping -n 10 -w 30000 192.168.1.254 Pinging 192.168.1.254 with 32 bytes of data: Request timed out. Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=2807ms TTL=255 Request timed out. Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=13069ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=764ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=1882ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=19ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=10972ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=115ms TTL=255 Reply from 192.168.1.254: bytes=32 time=4365ms TTL=255 Ping statistics for 192.168.1.254: Packets: Sent = 10, Received = 8, Lost = 2 (20% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 19ms, Maximum = 13069ms, Average = 4249ms

try this one on for size guys... I had no connectivity with the router.. I couldnt' even ping the gateway IP.. so just for grins and giggles.. I went into the tcp/ip config and forced a static ip that was outside the router's DHCP range.. and suddenly.. BAM.. everything screams. i forced a static DNS server ip of the router for now and suddenly its all hunky dorey.. it's like the router doesn't want to recognize my ip for some reason when I get it by dhcp!?

davey..any one dumb enough to try, deserves what they get.

if you can get your fingers between the water pump and the timing cover, it's a long. if you can't.. it's a short. 'short' water pump had the accessories mounted to the exhaust manifold bolts with brackets. the 'long' water pump moved the accessory mounts to the front of the cylinder heads. IIRC 1969 was the first year of the long water pump design.

crazey dave.. yep.. you get to 383 by going .030 over. (and bumping the stroke from 3.48" to 3.75")

i got lucky.. my block is a 'numbers correct' block for my monte it's a 350 2bbl block from a 1970 monte carlo :> not that I really care.. i found this out long after I built the engine and put it in the car lol but it's kinda cool.

ick be careful.. 0.060 is pushing it for a small block! if that block has any coreshift at all .060 will punch thru the waterjacket. if you have to go .060 make sure you have that baby sonic tested for thickness.. and be ready to buy a new block!! (expect the worst, hope for the best, that way you will always be pleasantly surprised)

you may have a broken ring in there...

so what was the problem?

I know you are on a tight budget kenny.. but give serious consideration to putting an MSD ProBillet #8360 distributor on your christmas list