NewTimer

Lights look good, how was the wiring ?

Good to know, what did you do will all the old wires Bob(bobmc)? I don't know if I should hide them or just remove them. and Bob(black07ss) - I am going with it because it just cleans the engine bay up so nicely and makes the car easier to work on. Also makes it easier to find refrigerant. Just to have my r12 removed from my old system I had to find someone with right licence to do it.

-For those who have installed a vintage air kit or evaporator- I will be adding a Vintage air gen IV evaporator over this coming winter and have removed my factory AC and heat while I have my engine out of the car. My question is, are any of the factory connectors and wires used ? I assume they are not but just want some confirmation before removing or hiding them.

Love the way your going with the Monte, this is exactly the plan I had for mine. Maybe an ls motor but that is still up in the air. I am just being held up by college! lol Also I did end up calling vintage air and the PN for the passenger side hard line is 091170 (can be found on summit racing) in case anyone else was wondering.

-Does anyone know the part number for this condenser? Tried looking it up on summit but when I looked up the packing list it had one hard line going to drivers side. Not both on passenger side like the one showed here.

My 72 has a factory trunk "mat" I can take pictures if anyone wants or needs them?

Well I don't see a problem with this, basically doing the same thing this guy did to his fuel pump. ( 4th post down ) Edit: Has any one changed the expansion valve?

So I have another solution/problem I need advice on, I have purchased a updated POA valve. And had a plan to use all braided line. The suction fitting that attaches to the rear of the POA valve is a hardline. ( fitting ) I had a plan of using braided line but with the fitting it only allows it to be crimped. Can aeroquip ac line be crimped? If not, I had a plan of just cutting the fitting and having a local shop tig weld an AN fitting to the end. Anyone see this being a problem or something I should address to the shop when doing this?

Is it a stock tranny as well? and what is your ideal budget?

Wish I would have seen the link to guy sooner, he sells power window switches for 100 bucks for the entire set! Auselys sells they driver master switch for about 60 bucks!

Thanks for all the help, I have decided just to go with a new POA, my car will be no where near original so I went with Old Air Products POA updated valve which has the Hi/lo switch already on it. With new O rings as well. (POA Valve) Before I take it apart I will have it flushed and I am changing the condenser with Vintage Air's Kit ( Condenser ) that comes with a new drier. I also already have a new March compressor that will be mounted on the passenger side and hope to have it hooked up with earls braided line and fittings.

Yeah after hours of research, I was starting to come that conclusion lol I am just going to update the POA valve. Any tips on that? I am not concerned about the difficulty just what I should be aware of when doing the change.

Do our Monte Carlos have the Orifice Tube? everywhere It shows as not listed, and summit stops 1975.

With the march pulleys my compressor will be on the passenger side so I think I will replace the condenser with the vintage air condenser which has both outlets on the passenger side. But what about the oriface tube? Where is that located?

I guess this would be considered "modified" I am working to refresh my engine bay up and with that came a new pulley kit from march that requires a new style a/c compressor. I looked at the Tech Archives and to convert to r134 on a stock system Rob mention that he changed nothing Archive But with the new style compressor would this still be the same procedure? I will have condenser and evaporator pressure tested and all old freon flushed. I am replacing the accumulator already. Also with my new compressor it mentions to replace the Orifice tube but I have no idea what that is or where it is located. Thanks for any help. Edit: Using factory evaporator only thing changing from factory system is compressor

Nice day so I drove her to class, electric fan and relays should both be here by next week

Well I have the relays already(dual fans), just need the temp sensor.

As I am getting ready to buy my relay kit and everything, I a thinking about the temp sensor, where should I put it? i have seen some in the radiator. And I do want to keep the one for the existing sensor for the temp warning light in car.

If not there, radioshack will have them. Tried looking for those at Advance and Autozone in my area and no luck.

So I figured it out and the reason you may be confused. My harness came with the relay and was already connected prior to the post. The rear harness I received had an orange and black wire coming out of towards the rear not the front of the car. So maybe it is used to get power to the rear/trunk? Maybe a trunk popper? Also the front harness had the same black and orange wire which was used to run to the horn relay. With pink going to ignition.

Okay guys, I have everything cut and plugged in, but the last wires I need help figuring out where to plug them in the fuse box are orange and pink. Two orange (one from front harness and other rear)wires plus one pink. I know that both orange&black go to ignition but does it go into ACC or Battery. I think they go into ACC. The pink wire I'm not exactly sure where it goes.

So with my under standing I will have to cut a hole to feed the wires through with the boot. How big should this hole be?

Well took the regulator out and test it and it worked Threw it back in the door and worked, I might be going crazy lol well one step closer to a Monte with power windows. Thanks for all the help

So I hear the motor "working" but regulator doesn't move. It will move up but not down

So the problem I am having now is i got the motor to move it up but having troubles bringing it down. To move up i put the positive on the horizontal pin and ground to clean bare metal. To reverse the process to make the motor go down (at the 12v) switched the positive to neg vice versa. Nothing. Then I tried moving the positive to the vertical pin in the motor both ways and nothing. Am I missing something or just not getting it to work?