Guest Posted June 17, 2002 Share Posted June 17, 2002 I installed my new cam and lifters yesterday. My next step is to put the push rods back into place and adjust the rockers. What is the correct procedure for this? Can it be done so that I don't need to readjustment them while the engine is running? I am also cleaning and painting my engine, so I would HATE to get oil all over my nice clean engine!!!! Any advice would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted June 17, 2002 Share Posted June 17, 2002 I always used the method outlined in the HAYNES manual for our Montes. $12 at your local auto parts store, great investment! Also, check this: http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000003.html ------------------ 71 Monte 454 HO "FULMNTE" 86 Monte LS "The Gray Mouse" FOR SALE! Andreas' Monte Carlo Site Member NMCOA, FGMCC (Event Coordinator) ------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------ "It ain't a car if it's not a Monte" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Posted June 17, 2002 Share Posted June 17, 2002 Mike first of all is your cam hydraulic or solid? I will assume it is hydraulic for my response here. As far getting oil all over the place, I took an old valve cover, cut it in half, and installed the bottom half of the valve cover on the head to keep oil from dripping down the sides of the head. You will also need to get rocker arm splash guards. They are available at the local parts store and usually cost less than 10 bucks. You will need to do the actual adjustments with the engine running. After you install the push rods one easy way to get you close is to tighten the rocker down while turning the push rod between your index finger and thumb. When you start to feel the push rod getting harder to turn your getting close. You dont want the push rod to spin freely nor do you want it so tight that it wont turn at all. In the middle of those two is about right. You want to feel some friction when turning the push rod. You will also need to bump the engine over quite a few times while doing this to make sure your not tightening them while the lifter is on a cam lobe. I would suggest you check all the push rods 2 to 3 times while bumping over the engine to make sure they are all close before start up. Keep in mind once the cam starts to rise the lifter, there will be pressure so you wont be able to turn it. Your looking to be able to turn the push rod on the back side of the cam lobe where it is not being lifted by the cam. Once you get it started there may be some clacking. Start on one side and back off the nut until you here the rocker start to tick, then turn it back until its quite and then give it a 1/4 turn more. I have seen several other posts that suggest 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. But for an aftermarket hydraulic cam a 1/4 turn is correct. Going more than that will put to much preload on the lifter. If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me. Monte. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 I hope that you used the necessary prelube on the cam for break-in. This is a must do!!! ------------------ George Lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Hey Guys, thanks for the replies. Monte, your instructions were pretty explicit, just what I needed. I was planning on going with a half turn after rocker lash. I did that on my (former) '72 Monte and it really made a difference in the performance, although I didn't replace anything then. Why is 1/4 turn good enough when new lifters are installed? George, I put cam lube on the lobes and bottom of my lifters. I was generous with the application. I also put 30W oil on the cam journals before installing. I plan on dumping some more oil into the top of the lifters before I install the push rods and into the weep holes in the top of the block before installing my intake since my car has been sitting for a few weeks now. There is an oile additive produce which I read about on the Crane Cams site to fortify the oil during the cam break-in period. The guy who sold me the cam seemed knowlegable, and he said nobody he has ever sold a cam to has purchased or requested this. He did not think it was necessary, so I did not get it. Do you think I have done enough, or were you suggesting that the oil fortifier was necessary? Andreas, Thanks for the old post, I guess I missed that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 A 1/2 a turn will put more preload on the lifter than what it usually recommended in most aftermarket cams. Going more than a 1/4 turn will put more pressure on the spring assembly inside the lifter. That can make the lifter lazy and cause you to loose performance. Have you checked your rocker arm geometry yet? Monte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Whoa!.......Back the truck up!?!?!? What do you mean by rocker arm geometry? That one flew right over my head. Please explain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Mike I will post below a prior response to a similar question. It should explain to you how to check for proper rocker geometry. It may read a little funny because I will list the entire post. Monte. Is your cam a solid roller or hydro? If its a hydro you can adjust them with the engine running. If its a solid you should adjust them valve by valve with a feeler gauge. You can get rocker splash guards from the local auto store which will keep the oil from going everywhere. Not all splash guards work with roller rockers. Take a rocker with you to make sure you can get it on. Mine are super super hard to get on but they do work. Also before you install all of the roller rockers. You need to check your rocker geometry. Many roller rockers depending on design can change your rocker geometry. This also is effected by how much lift your cam has. The tip of the rocker arm should ride close to the center of the valve stem during the lift. If the tip of the rocker rides on the outside or inside edge of the stem you have a geometry problem and this can lead to stress on the value and failure of the valve or the valve guide. You can buy a push rod length checker that is adjustable so you can determine the proper length push rod for your set up. The correct length push rod should allow the tip of the rocker to travel in the center of the valve stem during the opening and closing of the valve. The rocker tip will travel a little toward the outside edge of the stem and a little toward the inside during this process but most of the time should be in the center section of the valve stem . Again if the rocker tip rides from outside of the valve stem to the center or inside of the valve stem to the center you have a geometry problem. You also need to check the clearance between the stud and rocker at full lift. Some roller rockers can bind on the stud at full lift. It is sometimes hard to see as it will usually bind on the bottom side of the rocker toward the tip of the rocker. Monte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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