TH350 problem

[Guest]

I'm having a few problems with my TH350. Some leaks and it seems to be out of adjustment in terms of shift lever position. What I mean is, in order to put it in drive, I have to shift down to 2 and then push the handle up until I hit the neutral lockout. And I can't put it in park because it can't reach it. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the positions correct? And do the leaks have anything to do with it? Thanks!

[72 LS5]

The leak should not be related to the linkage adjustment.

 

You will have to get under the car and adjust the linkage right next to the trans. Just loosen the bolt on the linkage rod and slide it slightly one way or another, then tighten. You have to study the linkage movement to see which way you need to make the adjustment. It usually take a few tries to get it right on!

 

Good Luck.

[Guest]

Awesome! Thanks. I'll try and get to it some time over the weekend.

[kc8oye]

it sounds like you need to replace the bushings in the shift linkage... assuming you have a column shift. I know the stuff IS available from a GM dealer. tho maybe not under a '72 monte. I know for certain that the bushings for an '89 chevy *K* blazer (this is the full size, not s10) will fit.

 

I did mine and I LOVE it.

[Big Jim]

If the indicator is not lining up when in gear and you have a column shifter, You may need to adjust the shifter indicator string. Ther is a screw under the column you can loosen and slide over to get the correct tension on the spring.

[kc8oye]

Big Jim.. that's true.. the string does affect the pointer.. however, if he has to go down to low 2 and back up one to get into drive, he's got too much play in the shift linkage. it's real easy to fix.. you need 2 things from the dealer.

1) the lower nylon bushing that sits in the frame

2) the bushing kit for the joint between the steering column and the rod that goes down to the trans.

 

the upper joint is simply a matter of puling the hair-pin clip (MIGHT be a cotter key) and removing the rod, pushing the old bushing out if it's still there, pushing the new one in, and putting the rod back in.

 

the lower joint is just as easy

*BLOCK THE WHEELS*

undo the adjuster bolt on the rod, and with it loose, rotate the trans lever out of park and seperate the two rods. remove the hair pin clip (or cotter key) holding the shift rod into the trans. lift the rod out, remove the spring, and the old nylon bushing (if the spring is missing you may need one of these too)

put the new bushing in the frame, slip the spring back on the rod, slide the rod into the bushing, back into the trans, replace the clip, slip the two shift rods back together but don't tighten the bolt. rotate the trans back into park, then back two clicks, this is Nuetral. (This is needed for adjusting the shift linkages)

now push the column shifter up into park, and then gently feel down two clicks (don't go by the pointer, FEEL the clicks)

that's neuetral too.. now crawl back underneath and tighten the bolt.. that should be all u need to do.. and now you can get under the dash and adjust the string to get the pointer right.

 

 

I know this sounds like a lot.. but I've included all the detail I can. If you are a resonably expierenced wrench turner, the whole process should take more then 1/2 hour. maybe an hour at the most. (assuming you don't have any real problems, like rusted clips or broken bolts)

 

I'd offer pictures but i don't have a digi cam any more.