Tmac Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 I got my new A/C components this week and am test fitting everything. It is from Original air Group/Classic Auto Air looks like good stuff and i have heard good stuff about them at different shows and with talking to Joe. NO instructions and gotta wait for Monday for some other tech support, but i am not happy how my hoses, off the compressor, are routed and was wondering if anyone had any pics of how they did theirs? It just doesn't look good to me. also concerened about being able to tighten the compressor belt and , of course, keeping with the hose length i have. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmac Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 I guess to add to this: is there a different style hose to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3  I didn't like how the one hose crossed over the engine either, though the stock hoses follow the same sort of path. My setup had a set of instructions, but for the most part they just tell you to route the hoses, mark the length & clock position of fitting to hose, and then get them crimped. I ordered a longer length of hose and another fitting and made it run forward, under the core support, come out near the battery and then hook up as intended. It didn't make the hose length that much longer as to be a concern about charge capacity, or efficiency (I asked them).  The pics in this post will give you a rough idea what it looks like: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19368-new-guy-here/page/7/#comment-213101 You can see I rotated the compressor 90 degrees too, while still maintaining the proper orientation of the oil drain position as mentioned in the instructions, to keep the unit lubricated correctly.  As far as hose, yes, with R134A, it is suggested to get 'Barrier' hose. The 134 molecule is smaller than R-12, so the newer hoses have an inner barrier to contain the smaller molecule better. If you have any local radiator shops, or places that do A/C work, they'll probably crimp the hose for you vs. sending it back to the vendor to crimp as they offer. Technically, the crimpers should use the correct die for barrier hose too.  I think I got the hose from 'Auto Cooling Solutions' at the time, 9 feet of Parker Futura #10 barrier hose, and the new 90 degree, #10 fitting came from Original Air. (I chose this particular hose to match what came with my A/C system at the time, not sure if they use the same exact type now). I ordered the hose direct from them, but they even have an ebay store: https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/products/10-ac-barrier-hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/175262077675?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOoq8QG5oPHSbgbXxLAQGvB6NwBp3HzhPu5qcDrt-48aIjgQgt-F9ZLk   Here is what I picked off my Original Air invoice for that new fitting: Item: 14-2035                #10 Female O-Ring #10 BL90'        $3.80  You have my number, call if you want to talk. 🙂  2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmac Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 10 hours ago, jft69z said:  I didn't like how the one hose crossed over the engine either, though the stock hoses follow the same sort of path. My setup had a set of instructions, but for the most part they just tell you to route the hoses, mark the length & clock position of fitting to hose, and then get them crimped. I ordered a longer length of hose and another fitting and made it run forward, under the core support, come out near the battery and then hook up as intended. It didn't make the hose length that much longer as to be a concern about charge capacity, or efficiency (I asked them).  The pics in this post will give you a rough idea what it looks like: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19368-new-guy-here/page/7/#comment-213101 You can see I rotated the compressor 90 degrees too, while still maintaining the proper orientation of the oil drain position as mentioned in the instructions, to keep the unit lubricated correctly.  As far as hose, yes, with R134A, it is suggested to get 'Barrier' hose. The 134 molecule is smaller than R-12, so the newer hoses have an inner barrier to contain the smaller molecule better. If you have any local radiator shops, or places that do A/C work, they'll probably crimp the hose for you vs. sending it back to the vendor to crimp as they offer. Technically, the crimpers should use the correct die for barrier hose too.  I think I got the hose from 'Auto Cooling Solutions' at the time, 9 feet of Parker Futura #10 barrier hose, and the new 90 degree, #10 fitting came from Original Air. (I chose this particular hose to match what came with my A/C system at the time, not sure if they use the same exact type now). I ordered the hose direct from them, but they even have an ebay store: https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/products/10-ac-barrier-hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/175262077675?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOoq8QG5oPHSbgbXxLAQGvB6NwBp3HzhPu5qcDrt-48aIjgQgt-F9ZLk   Here is what I picked off my Original Air invoice for that new fitting: Item: 14-2035                #10 Female O-Ring #10 BL90'        $3.80  You have my number, call if you want to talk. 🙂  Thanks, I like how yours looks, really clean. Do your instructions say anything about the clutch cycling switch? It says it can go on either port on the POA eliminate but it doesn't say if you should remove the schrader valve from the port. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 I think there was only one spot to mount the switch on my POA manifold. The other available ports were for the temperature sense capillary tube, and the oil drain back tube. Basically, every available port had a specific purpose. The one with the blue cap is the service port, obviously. One pic of the top side, and a couple pics from the bottom: Â Â Â 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmac Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 2 minutes ago, jft69z said: I think there was only one spot to mount the switch on my POA manifold. The other available ports were for the temperature sense capillary tube, and the oil drain back tube. Basically, every available port had a specific purpose. One pic of the top side, and a couple pics from the bottom: Awesome pics! That's how I've got mine mocked up right now. My instructions said I could switch the charge port and cycling switch if I needed to make room. I'm gonna leave it just like yours. Thanks again!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 3 minutes ago, Tmac said: Awesome pics! That's how I've got mine mocked up right now. My instructions said I could switch the charge port and cycling switch if I needed to make room. I'm gonna leave it just like yours. Thanks again!!! I'm looking thru my instructions right now & it says exactly that. The way I mocked it up initially, it was probably real hard to connect the service hose, and I think I didn't like how close that cycling switch was to the hood spring either (on the rear most port). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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