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On a Mission (4 spd. install)


Kevin Wiles

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That fork boot is avalible at most parts store in the MotorMite/Help!/ClutchIn lines. Believe they are made by the same places that makes the O.E. GM ones. Best clutch alinment tool to get is a wooden one that will have the paint wear so you will know when it is in all the way. Mr.Gasket makes them and they don't have the splines (which makes it easy if you have a 10- and 26-count spline trannies in your cars.) Now for that stick, don't put anyone on the middle of that front bench,it could hurt (I have the same stick and it earned the nickname "Nut-Crusher" for obvious reasons.)

And tech tip: get a long enough piece of a threded rod and cut it into two and put a slot on each so you will have a set of guide studs to instal the tranny. Just have to ne long enough so the tranny slides right on and in. Place them in the top holes of the bellhousing when using them and always keep them with you clutch tools.

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Hey Kevin, I need you to send my your mailing address again, I can't find it to send your bracket to you. I will also email you too. It is ready for you to try it out.

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Today I got a lot done but found a problem... First of all I had to take out the collar where the steering column goes through. I had to get someone to torch out a bigger hole than the one I drilled. Then I installed it and put the rod through the boot and hooked up the brake pedal to the rod to the master cyl. Then I bolted the column back up. It was nice to see the finished product:

pedalsin.jpg

 

Today while working on it I saw the mail lady put a package in the mailbox and it was the frame bracket from Dennis! I continued to work by painting up the bellhousing chevy orange and took the ball joint out of the bellhousing and screwed it in the block of the engine. Then I bolted up the frame bracket with the screws provided. It was a perfect fit. I put the z bar in the 2 ball joints and connected the clutch rod. The clutch rod fork was already attached to the z bar. Heres a pic:

overallwordds.jpg

 

Now heres the problem.... the Z bar will not move properly because it hits the headers. This proves my theory that headers get in the way of EVERYTHING. *sigh* Anybody got some shorty headers or high-flow mani's for sale for small block?

 

To see the assembly instructions from chevrolet go here: http://www.firstgenmc.com/assem1.jpg

and heres one that shows more of the firewall and pedal assembly: http://www.firstgenmc.com/assem2.jpg

 

Kevin Wiles

 

 

 

 

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Kevin, on my car I wanted 1 3/4" headers for my application. However nobody made one for a Monte Carlo only chevelle which I tried but didn't work on the right side. The chevelle header worked on the left side however. You may want to see if that rear tube turns forward on a chevelle left header. Once again I was dealing with 1 3/4" headers not 1 5/8" which may have a different design. I ended up using a set of 1 3/4" Hooker super comps for a 71 camaro. The rear tube on mine turns forward and sits about 4 inches in front of that brake junction on the frame. I will look at my 4 speed car tomorrow and if it will work. I think if you get a header that turns forward you may have enough room for the z-bar. Also the 71 camaro header does not work on the right side. I had to "modify" the header and take a plasma cutter to move the right lower control arm pocker a bit so the header will clear. I think that hooker 1 5/8" may clear. Monte.

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Have you thought about using block hugger "tri-Y" type headers? They are the ones like big Chevy ram horns and the conection pipes clear the frame. Other than that, most Chevelle listings will work that are ment for clutch cars, but any mods for a Monte will also have to be done for a Chevelle.

That frame bracket looks at home in your Monte

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Ok, today I removed the old flywheel and put on the new one. It was quite a pain under the car and in an odd position where it feels like the flywheel weighs a TON! It is a lot heavier than the other one. It was hard to get the holes lined up too. I meant to check to see what size bolts go into the flywheel to hook the pressure plate up but I forgot. Does anyone know? I'm talking about the outermost bolts (6) that holds the pressure plate on. This is the part tomorrow where I'll need the clutch pilot tool to line everything up then put the bell housing on and then the main part. I plan to put everything in and then drill a hole just for reference where the shifter is then use a cutting wheel to cut out a hole in the hump. Once again I could use a little advice. Is this the way you would do this? What size square or rec. hole is this supposed to be. You guys are the greatest! Thanks so much for the help so far. I really could not have done this without your help

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kevin. cut a hole where the shifter goes and put a boot over it or just cut the hole and put a plate over it.Paddock sells part #CH199E a shifter hump plate for console $64.95. it welds to the hump and has an opening for the shifter.It covers up the big hole for the shifter, they also sell plates that you can use a boot for if you don't want a console. good luck!

 

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please restore em' and not crush em'

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Today I didnt feel like crawling under the car but I did replace the plug wires. When I cranked the car it sounded noisy around the flywheel. (remember there is not any bellhousing or anything) Sounds like its lightly scrubbing something. Perhaps I will have to adjust my starter to comply with the new flywheel?

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