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Converter Flash RPM?


BuffaloBillPatri

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All new parts, never fired up yet.

 

Weight is about 3900# with me in it.

 

Torque (at crank) about 400ftlbs @4K RPM.

 

B&M TH400 & Hole Shot 3000 converter.

 

4.56 Posi, rear tires 28" tall 275/50/r17 Will it just smoke these?

 

If I put slicks on, about what RPM will the converter flash to?

 

BBP

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First, yes, I believe you will just smoke the tires!

 

It is hard to say what it will flash to Bill. I used to have a Holeshot 2400, and it flashed to a solid 3000, and I've had a friend with a HS 2400 that flashed to about 2500. I do think those are decent converters, but their consistency is a little inconsistent!

 

 

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Steve;

 

Is there a site that I might go on to see what might be the best convert to put behind the 502/w350TH? I found this tread and it's interesting to me as I'm planning to do this before spring. Thanks

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BTW, I bought the B&M TH400 & converter 14 years ago, hopefully before their reputation started to dive.

 

I have read that B&M Hole Shot converters tend to flash loose (to a higher RPM than most). This should get my RPM's up further into power band, but I will need slicks for full throttle off-the-line.

 

Also, some contributing factors to higher flash: More torque, heavy car, more traction, loose & possibly inefficient design.

 

 

http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/torque-converter-tech-2042.html

 

This info looks like it was copied from TCI

 

"The Most Widely Misunderstood Torque Converter Concept

 

The stall speed rpm of your torque converter is the point at which your vehicle starts to move, regardless of throttle input.

 

Amazingly enough, this lone misconception is the belief of many car builders today. True, when you mash the throttle, the stall speed of the converter does come into play before the vehicle begins to move. But at any throttle level less than wide open, your stall speed is reduced. Case in point, at half throttle the stall speed is cut in half. If this were not the case, it would stand to reason that there would be no way to effectively drive a high stall speed converter-equipped transmission on the street."

 

 

And from B&M,

 

"Here are some general guidelines for selecting a converter:

The stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed."

 

BBP

 

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that last one certainly cleared things up...

 

And from B&M,

 

"Here are some general guidelines for selecting a converter:

The stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed."

 

crazy

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Too high of a stall is like nitrous--sort of. . . It's addictive and fast! The problem is that it is not optimized. You will have good quarter mile times, but poor mph. It may also heat up more than you want on the street. Too low of a stall is just crappy! Slow and boggy off the line until your rpms get into the cam's operating range--no fun, and it will make you mad every time you get on it!

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sort of like Goldielocks huh Steve...and this one is juusst right!!!

 

They set mine up about 700 rpm under the torque peak and it goes like a shot, no bog, no hesitation, it just goes now!!!

 

The Monte has a 2400 Holeshot and with the 509 it's pretty loose but you can hear it searching for more rev's off the line. I'm going to try a Hughes 3500 'cause I have one... crazyDavey

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Coan is a great converter, I put a spec one in the Chevelle because its job right now is racing. Their priceline converters are not a lot different than a good TCI or Hughes, etc, the spec converters get a little pricey...some turn out a little loose, some a little tight. It depends on the setup as to how it's going to act.... crazyDavey

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that's very true Allan, what I usually do is contact the manufacturer, talk to someone about my needs and get a name. Then I'll order it through Summit just because they are a day away from me and their service is top notch (plus I get points). Then if I have an issue there's a contact who has some memory of our conversation. It's worked a couple of times, they called Summit, Summit called me and we resolved the issue.... crazyDavey

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