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SBC 350 intakes?


Murphy

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A local guy is selling several intake manifolds, Edelbrock Performer and Performer RPM & a Procomp 3207. After reading the info on each on Edelbrock's website, does my SBC 350, Qjet 4-barrel and Patriot headers warrant the RPM model?

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Also unless it is a Performer RPM for a Q-jet you will need an adapter.The Performer has bolt patterns for both the spread-bore and square bore-the Rpm is square bore only. But for your combo I would go the Performer anyway. I ran one for years when I had the 400 small block in my 70 and it was a great intake. But the stock cast iron isn't a bad intake either for a mild combo. I went with the Performer on mine because I was switching from a 2-barrel and I got a great deal on a used Performer. On the plus side I think it looks better than the stock cast and definatly lighter. You might not notice a performance improvement but definatly easier on the back when you lift it off the block lol.

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Well I bought this used Performer for $40 last nite, it looks in great shape. Nice and clean, no scratches, etc....with one exception, the water jacket area. I was really surprised to see how the aluminum had been eaten away by the coolant? Is this common to aluminum intakes? Is there a coating that can be applied to slow down this corrosion?

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It can happen in the right cases (which I'll go into below). Is it the coating that wore away? Or is the Aluminum actually pocked and flaking?

 

Can you share a picture??

 

 

If the aluminum itself is indeed getting eaten away, the only thing I can think of are these 2 reasons:

 

1) The guy ran an old Alcohol based anitfreeze through it - not the usual Ethylene Glycol stuff. That can corrode aluminum... but really unlikely --- I don't think people even make it anymore - so that probably is out.

 

2) The most realistic possibility is that the guy had a weak-current positive terminal short (stray connection) from his battery to the motor ground which traveled through the coolant (as it is conductive)... and electrolysis occurs, and the aluminum acts as an anode.

 

In this case, it creates a Galvanic Reaction (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion) and the Aluminum acts as a sacrificial metal (anode), giving up electrons and corroding... but this only happens if you have a short to the ground (which is why you NEVER want to have a short to ground in these cars). This also destroys the aluminum radiators in the process --- which is the most common cause of radiator failure.

 

Caution to old car owners:

If your battery is draining for no reason... figure it out asap. If it is a short to the ground, you are likely destroying all aluminum (or steel) components somewhere in the car. Chances are if you find a car rusting out before it's time --- it is because of stray voltage causing a redox reaction.

 

Whenever I buy a car, I always ask the owner if they ever needed to change battery's and how much? A guy selling a car advertised with "New Battery!" is a warning sign. Badly Corroded terminals are also sign of this happening... if it happens there there is a good chance it is happening somewhere else in the car you can't see.

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Outstanding info! The aluminum is pocked in places of the water jacket, Since I'm confident that I do NOT have a grounding issue in my car, I won't worry about it then, never having an aluminum intake before or should I say not ever seeing the results of a used aluminum intake.....I had to ask.

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