Murphy

Get this stuff, I use it to clean a lot parts. It's great! Must have a ventilated area, also!

Yes John, you can handle it yourself. Remove the top dash pad, 6-7 screws, then remove a few bolts that hold the dash in place, it will be helpful to also removed the 2 bolts holding the steering column in place and let the column rest on the seat. Now you can gently pull the dash assembly forward, gaining access to all the PCB connections. Take your time and don't force anything. The gauge housing is brittle plastic and all the harnesses are fairly stiff, just get plenty of light on the project so you can see everything...........Good luck!

That's an awesome motor, Mike! Sorry for my mis-ID in the earlier post. I read 'short block' but my brain said 'small block'.........

That's really NICE Mike, which block are you using 509 or 511? What's the bore? That's on my wish list, building a sbc400.....

Just figured it out, in the manual 'P' is for pink! 'PPL' is purple. Crimped on some spade connectors on my wires from the switch and slid them into the existing connector pulled from the switch on the column and I have backup lights!

Trying to hookup the backup lights for my 4-speed in which I've installed the Hurst switch on the shifter linkage. Have a pair of wires up to the steering column to what I believe is the column shift switch. It's low on the column, near the firewall, has 2 connectors one has a light green and rose colored wire, the other connector has a purple and purple w/white stripe. In my Haynes manual, I'm showing the (Backup LP. SW) has a 'P' wire and a 'LG' wire. I'm guessing this means purple and light green, confused as their not on the same existing connector??? Any assistance is appreciated!

I'm with Sam.....Is there a knock-out for a fill cap? Are both covers the same?

Many have used the Shiftworks tach for replacement of the clock including myself. Perfect fit and works great! Not sure about the mounting of the Speedhut tach but it looks like it has a shiftlight which would be cool......

Yes, an instruction document has been in the works, I've been taking lots of pics to incorporate. One issue is that my install is not factory correct but I can still give some insight so people don't need to remove their bellhousing 5 times or their trans 3 times or get their drive shaft balanced twice due to an oversights. But it's fun, I really enjoy it. Keeps me out of the saloons!!!!

Yes there is an adjustable rod but the fork was tight against the front opening of the bellhousing, I couldn't get the throwout bearing off the fingers without adjusting the pivot ball.

Well, I'm almost finished! Took the Monte for her maid 4-speed voyage and WOW! I Love it! Yesterday morning I finished up the pedal install & linkage and then discovered that I didn't have any free play with the throw-out bearing! Removed driveshaft, crossmenber, and tranny (again) adjusted the pivot ball in the bellhousing to give me the recommended 1/4" gap between bearing and the preasure plate fingers. Put it all back together, including exhaust and called it a day. So this morning I'm double checking everything, nuts & bolts & springs, etc.....Took her down from her jack stand perch fired her up and after a minute of rattling & tapping everything smoothed out (she hadn't had oil in her for 6 weeks). Slid her into 1st gear and rolled out the garage, then into 2nd gear, then into 3rd........I'm grinning from ear to ear! Tomorrow I'll be dropping her off at my buddies place to weld in the hump so I can finish with carpet & boot. On the next project........... A little extra emblem to show-off my work!

Thanks for the assistance guys, figured it all out and have it installed, I was originally thinking I only needed about a one inch hole for the rod going thru the firewall. After looking over the boot and the mounting plate and matching it up with the bolts on the column plate, I could see that I needed a 2.5" hole for the plate to fit as it has a flange that extends thru the firewall. Off to Home Depot for the correct metal hole saw bit. That was some tough drilling! But a little filing and it was perfect. This shot was from under the car looking up between the firewall and the inner fender. Here's the mostly finished product............

Good one Dennis....just got the pedals installed and was hoping for a mark or indentation for drilling the hole thru the steering column mounting plate. don't see anything???? Best guess, I reckon.

Thanks Dennis, no fork boot? I realized I might be having an issue is when I attempted to install my boot. Worried that I might have the wrong fork, even tho the guy said this Lakewood bell, block plate and fork was removed from a 70 Chevelle SS. One of the unknowns when buy from CL...........

Have another question.....I'm concerned about the clutch fork I'm using, as you can see in this photo, the fork is way forward and almost touching the bell. I installed an adjustable pivot ball and set it at 4.75 inches as per the Lakewood spec. I've read on several other sites (Camaro/chevelle) that many people had to go back to the stock fork when using the Lakewood bell due to travel issues. Looking for input here..........

I have an Assembly manual for a 72 Chevelle, it was cheap on CL locally thinking it should be very similar......... Your pics definitely help. THX! Determined that the 2nd spring I have is smaller and is mentioned to be optional that goes from the Z-bar to the clutch fork. The larger spring states that it goes from the Z-bar to the frame...........

Is there a hole or where on the frame? There's a half circle indentation on the top of the frame close to the upper A arm???

Finally got home from a 12 day business trip so I can proceed on this project. Installed the driveshaft, speedo cable and started to put the exhaust back up. Here's a few pics...... So now I'm ready for the pedals & linkage but trying to figure out this kit.......Mostly the 2 springs, I have several manuals but only one spring is ever shown in diagrams. My guess is the large spring must go from the Z-Bar to the frame (towards front of car) do I need another bracket for the spring to attach to the frame or just drill a hole. Any pics will be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, this post reminded me of a conversation I had with a guy several weeks ago. Since that Plasti-dip product now comes in various colors, this guy was telling me that he was going to try various colors on his Chevelle top to help him decide which color to use as he needed to replace his vinyl top. Since the product can be removed fairly easily he was looking at a few different color combinations to match his interior........

Thanks for your insight Dennis, the clutch pedal switch is actually at the bottom of my list. Being an old Iowa farm boy, you never started any type of equipment without having the clutch depressed. (trucks, tractors, combines, etc..)Since I'd be the only person driving the Monte, as with your procedure, the clutch will always be to the floor when starting. I might possibly add the switch when the snowball is smaller.......... Talked with my brother-in-law earlier today as he picked up the driveshaft, the round balancer at the slipyolk was removed and the driveshaft now fits perfectly. Anxious to get home to get the conversion finished & jam a few gears!

Yes, the shifter lever comes up almost dead center to the hump, possibly just a fuzz towards the driver. Sorry I didn't get any pics as I had to catch a plane but when I get back I'll post pics. Then I'll be starting the pedals/clutch linkage, etc.........

Yes, I'm going for the 4-speed w/bench seat & yes, I have the non-console hump. Dan, if you look closely at the pic in the very first post, you can see the yellow stands behind the front wheel. I thought about the position of the car, but the doors open fine and the seems at the door are good. I'm thinking that when the car is on the ground that the driveshaft length might even be a bit shorter???

Thought I better give an update to my Muncie install, currently out of town on business (Raleigh, NC) so I don't have any pics at the moment..........Recieved my adjustable dowel pins for the bellhousing, knocked out the old dowels, only after removing the headers, installed the new pins, tweeked abit until the bell was within .002, .005 was our tolorance, removed the bell, permanently installed the flywheel bolts with loctite & torqued. Installed the RAM clutch & torqued. Installed the bell again & torqued. THEN, realized I couldn't get the freekin' fork mounted inside the bellhousing with the throwout bearing!! ARGGGGGH!! Took the bellhousing (Lakewood) back off, installed the clutchfork with bearing & reinstalled the bell. Finally, got to mounting the M20 which wasn't too tough, my biggest obsticle was trimming the floor since the shifter was mounted. Ended up trimming quite abit of the side hump due to the shifter, I just didn't want to cut any more than I had to.........Had to drill new holes in the frame for the crossmember but everything was working out pretty good.. Then attempted to install the driveshaft which I just got back from the driveline shop with new Spicer U-joints and balancing. I, of course, painted it also. Driveshaft is too long???!! about a half inch. The vibration dampener is hitting on the tranny before I can get it into the rear yolk, had my brotherinlaw take it back to the driveline place today and they told him they would remove the dampener and rebalance....we remeasured as per the specs from AZ driveline as this was the 1st time we had the muncie installed to get accurate measurements. So, it was a very productive weekend, but I won't get back for about 10 days to finish up the project. Can't wait!

2 vents went to a canister behind the backseat which then had a line to charcoal canister left of the radiator & 1 vent was to the fuel pump. That's how my 71 was setup (built May 1971)

Good to have you back Darren! Your expertise is always welcome. Now I have another question.....The Z-BAR has a grease zerk near the center of the horizontal tube, is that entire tube to be filled with grease? Seems like a waste.........