Murphy

Hope it works and doesn't blister......I did pretty much the same thing to a used set of headers I got for $60 but I used the Eastwood High-Temp silver........2coats were brushed on prior in install with great results. Have 5-600 miles on without any problems.

The glove box door paint (black) has dulled so it looks much different than the rest of the nice black dash. Was thinking the SEM trim paint might be correct color??? Any suggestions?

In the 'Who's online' box, it shows registered users, guests & spiders..........who's a spider?

Almost there, if you right click on the IMG link within Photobucket then choose copy then you can paste that link within your text box in the FGMCC page and preview to confirm...........

Post your photos to Photobucket 1st, there's instructions on the help page......

James, I've been there. I have a 71 with a SBC350 and a TH350 with a non-posi 2.73 gear with a single exhaust. A few things that have made a huge difference in my car was adding headers with 2" exhaust and flowmaster mufflers, then added an HEI distributor, new wires and plugs with a slightly larger gap. Things really improved with this upgrade! Then I found a used Performer intake for $45, cleaned & painted it, and had the Q-Jet rebuilt. The old girl runs really well and sounds great! Here's a before & after shot............ Now I've only got 100K miles on this car and the motor was rebuilt going .030 over so she's really tight. What part of the valley are you in?

Here's a 71 in MN for sale...... grille

Thanks guys! If anyone has old door panels, I'm in need of 2 or 3 buttons, just wanted to throw it out there...........

I've running that unit for almost 2yrs now without a hitch, lifetime warranty & less than $40. I got the dust cap but it's the same distributor!

Well, I've finished covering the rear seats and installing the original buttons. What a headache! I now understand why others have not installed the buttons!!!!! From the original cover, I measured the button placement from the top seam and marked on the new cover and installed the buttons. Bad decision! That's when I could see this curve to the buttons, it looked like an upside down frown, the center button was about an inch higher than the buttons at the ends of the seat.?? I called PUI for advice, No help! I then called a local shop and they told me to install the cover, stretched into place, mark on the cover with chalk the proper location of the buttons, remove the cover and install the buttons then reinstall. I've now had this cover off 3 times and it finally looks right............. Hopefully the front bench will now be easier. Also, since I had installed the buttons, then removed them and reinstalled in different locations, one would think that holes would be an issue. Guy at the upholstery shop told me to heat up the old button locations with a heat gun (not too hot) and rub the area of the removed button to take out any marks left by the buttons, it worked, the tiny hole left by the button shaft punched thru the vinyl in the seam is hardly noticeable.

I've started the process of replacing my rear seat covers, I bought a set via PUI. After removing the originals, I see a huge difference between the original buttons and the ones provided from PUI. I then removed the original buttons which are in fine condition. Trying to decide on the reinstall process, I measured the location of the buttons from the top seam (12 1/2" in the center of the seat to 12" on the furthest outside buttons)??? When I mark this out on the new cover it looks terrible. Wondering if I need to install the new cover, mark out the buttons, remove the cover, install the buttons and then reinstall? I know others have mentioned they didn't install any buttons but I actually prefer them as it matches the side/door panels....

69 to 74 Muncies had a letter designation after the serial #. A = M20 B = M21 C = M22 All the serial #'s start with P, 1969 to 1974 Muncies got a ratio designator at the end of the serial number. An example would be P4D23B. This equates to April 23, 1974, M21 ratio.

Robert, I installed a windshield mounted mirror with dual maps lights about a year ago & love it! It's about 2" shorter than stock plus I was able to mount higher and out of the way, I've gotten much better visibility and gained the interior lights. It was only about $40 bucks........ As you can see, I added an old piece of window trim to fill in the gap left by the stock mirror.

Yes I have the removed & disassembled also. The seat back is padded with 2" cotton pad, mine had 2 layers. The top layer is really deteriorated so Monday I'll get more of that down at the upholstry shop, I think it comes in 3' widths and you get the length you need. My bottom seat had some rusty spots in which I steel brushed off......

A local guy here has the cruise control lever and cut wires from a 71 Monte but won't sell it individually. It's part of a larger package deal.......What is it worth?

Here's the pics of my back seat in which I just disassembled. Cloth seats with the bolster as you can see the foam is split for a metal rod that is slid into a seam of the seat cover then pulled down thru the foam. This metal rod is then hog-ringed to the springs. The blue seam across the center of the seat cover is where this rod is threaded in the bottom of the seat cover.

Pulled out the back seats and disassembled as the new seat covers will be here on Monday. No broken springs and in good shape. Removed the buttons from the old cover and steel brushed a few rusty spots. Went and got a nice set of hog ring pliers and rings...........come on Monday!

If you look at the post from Jayzi earlier, he shows a link to Shiftworks with the wiring instructions. Its the Green wire from the tach to the Negative terminal of the coil or to the specified connector on the HEI distributor.

If you bought the Shiftworks tach, there is a connector specifically for the tach........

Hey Andy, I got creative to install an overflow can that was never installed. Bought this universal tank at O'Rielley's Auto parts for $8 and a piece of aluminum stock (1/2" x 1/8") at Home Depot for $3, bent the aluminum bar and drilled one hole in the plastic shroud. It looks OK but mainly its functional!

I put in the HEI from Bill White, can't beat it for the money!

Vince, which oil pan did you go with? A stock replacement pan or something different.............

Just finished with my install of Retro Sounds Classic Radio (900C) beautiful fit, once you figure everything out. I could have gotten it cheaper from Crutchfields but they couldn't provide the correct knobs. I also installed 4 new speakers. I'm OK with the windshield antenna so far and debating about installing a standard mast one or electric?? As far as the function of this unit, its really nice!

Excellant! Thanks.........

When I begin my 4-speed conversion, I planning on replacing the oil pan gasket, since I'm not planning to remove the engine (possibly jack it up some) should I use a 1 piece gasket? It obviously costs more, but thinking about installation might be easier......