Murphy

I agree with Scott, as I recall when I replaced mine with the OPG part, the replacement was only about an 1/8" thick, maybe 3/16". What I removed was very similar but was basically powder so I couldn't get a true measurement, just sucked it up with the shop vac............

Just curious....what cross member are you using for trans support and what's the height of the trans mount? I think, the stock mount is 1.9" ????

Thanks Joe & Sam for all the info! I found this sleeve for covering the column shift lever, its from Speedway Motors. Thought I'd pass this along. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=910-32600 It's plastic.

Found this panel, pretty cheap! http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/4284733479.html

I'm adding a backup light switch to the Muncie (made by Hurst) and then wire up to the steering column connector. You are correct about removing the key, maybe I need to rethink this???

RATS!

Excellent idea Dan, that's what I was hoping for......input!

Thanks guys, appreciate it! I've been also toying with the idea of cutting the lever off at about 4-5 inches as then I could pull it down into R or D so the car then wouldn't start as a safety feature. Hate to cut this lever as its really nice so possibly will have to find another.......

In preparation of my 4-speed conversion, I'm curious if the column gearshift lever can be simply be removed without something BAD happening inside the column? Eventually, I'll replace the column with the correct floorshift model but one step at a time.........

Hey Ken, sent you a PM.

Rick, clean up the inside of the housing with steel wool, But first stuff cotton balls in the sockets. Then mask off real well and spray paint gloss white, several coats.. Your tail lights will really glow bright

Bill, get a Dynacorn tank, excellent fit & quality. Should be a dealer in Seattle area. check their website........my 71 required the 3 vent tube style.

Does your monte have AC? I was under the impression that AC cars had dual front speakers as in my 71. Non-AC cars only received the center front speaker, I could be wrong............

All the bulbs are clear, there are colored lens in the dash for turn signals, hi-beams, and brakes. If your oil or temp or gen indicators don't light up when starting then you most likely have several lamps burned out. Of the 17 lamps, I had 4 burned out, am installing the GE168 bulbs as they are brighter.

Rick, check out 'Just Dashes" http://www.justdashes.com/index.html I haven't seen their work but have been told that their repairs are excellent!

Thanks Joe! Great explanation. Since I'm installing a Shiftworks tach in place of the clock and when I convert to gauges vs indicator lights, I guess the only way I'll know if the key is in the ON position is from the display of my RetroSound radio.

Oh, that's right, the factory tach has the oil light. THX! This being my 1st first gen Monte, I'm not up to speed on all the other options/accessories.......

As I've pulled the dash out this weekend to replace the clock with a Shiftworks tach, I've come upon a question. Since I have the stock "idiot" lights, when I turn the key to the 'accessory' postion, the 'idiot' lights illuminate. For those who have the gauge package, how do you know when your key is in the 'accessory' position?

Got it! Gauge pod is now out also. I found in a 72 Assembly manual I got cheap off CL, there is a re-inforcement plate just above the steering column that has one bolt. It's a tough one to get at but once removed the entire dash almost fell in my lap! I had printed out instructions from docs I found in the archives (Thx to those who created them) and no one mentioned this bolt. My car was built in may of 71. I'll try to measure this speedo cable with a string now that I have some room............

RATS! I have my dash loose as I am replacing the clock and all bulbs, the dash is pulled out about an 1.5" but I still can't get at the speedo cable? Must I get the dash out further?

Almost ready to start my conversion from a TH350 to a Muncie M20, trying to determine which speedometer cable is needed as it appears that the stock cable to the TH350 will be too short. When searching for the correct cable at the various vendors, the cables are listed by length, well I haven't removed mine yet to know which length I have so I don't know which to order??? This is for a 71 Monte, all help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks Larry. Don't mean to hijack this post but has anyone been successful at repairing or replacing the horizontal bars in one of these grills? I've looked at several 71 grills that have some damage to a few of the horizontal bars and if a person could cut the bad bars out & weld or epoxy or braze a replacement bar in then paint, it would certainly be a way to save a lot of these unique grills. I realize this is pot metal we're dealing with...

Another hint is too take a Crayola crayon and lightly stroke it on the chrome surfaces before painting. The crayon leaves a waxy film, then paint. After the paint has dried (cured) for several hours or over night, you then can take wooden popsicle stick (don't use metal) and slide it along the chrome surface (some pressure is required) and the paint and crayon wax peels right off! The painted surfaces must be cured (I always waited till the next day) or else the paint might tear away from an area that you don't want it to. I've been using this method on emblems and scripts and it works great!

I'm quite certain that it is the satin trim black, SEM makes it and I've used it many times. Excellent product. The silver paint I'm not completely sure about tho.....if I were to guess, Argent Silver would be correct, similar to the rims. I believe the black should only be at the very bottom of the groove. I didn't repaint the silver areas on mine, just filed the imperfections in the pot metal smooth.

It's really odd that the designator A, B, or C isn't stamped on the end of the P3T12 serial number?? Although the case number (3925661) does confirm between 1970 to 74.