Murphy

You should notice also that the radio in Doug's photo is a mono style and the photo I displayed is a stereo style. Notice the amber light to the right of the AM/FM slider switch. This illuminates when receiving a stereo signal.

Here's an AM/FM stereo without the knobs......... Depending on the year of your Monte will determine the style of knobs.

I feel better knowing that others have had this similar experience. Great grand-daughter! Wooooo! What if its a boy?

Well, I believe I've discovered the issue. It's the prep spray. After reading the fine print it states not to use on painted/primed surfaces that are less than 6 months old. Here I thought I was being extra sanitary from skin oils! I'm now using those latex gloves. I did a final sand on this metal kick plate for this old refrigerator (primed yesterday) and decided to put one more thin even coat of primer on it. Wiped it with the prep-spray and it screwed up the freshly sanded primer in a few areas? So I've resanded again!

Quite possibly just bulbs, I replaced all my bulbs last fall when the dash was partially out, I think there was 17 or 18 bulbs. I had 6 bad ones. Got the bulbs at Grainger for less than a buck a piece..........

Thanks Tony, I'm just paint some metal covers & brackets from this old fridge I'm restoring. Trying to do some of the tedious prep work before I turn it over to a body shop for final painting. I'm using a prep spray also, maybe I need to let it cure more?? I've also seen these shrinkage cracks on some of the plastic parts I'm prepping also, guessing I need to use less primer, lighter coats. Using DupliColor products.........

In several projects I'm undertaking, I keep see a similar problem with primer, Stretch Marks! After the drying process of various primers to include a high-build primer, I occasionally end up with some stretch marks usually in the tight places, is this due to too much primer in these areas? What is a reasonable drying time before sanding?

All 3 idiot lights should illuminate when cranking the motor.

JJ, I flushed my system real well, I disconnected the bottom rad hose to make sure I got all the crap out due the car was sitting for many yrs. I also installed a 180 thermostat, my 350 runs fine in 100 degree temps.

No problem!

How's this photo? Hope it helps........

I've heard of people bead blasting intakes......I just used cleaned the heck out of it with de-greaser and painted chevy orange.

Hey Eric, I recall reading somewhere in my Quadrajet research that Carter was basically contracted to help with supply issues as Rochester couldn't keep up with the demand. Are they exact copies, I couldn't say...........

Eureka! I think I've discovered the fix to this fuel draining issue........I was talking with a 2 older (65+) mechanics the other day who have a shop near me (they happen to be brothers), I was inquiring about the AC conversion to R134. Their eyes just lit up when they came out to the parking lot to see the Monte, anyway, they both commented "Nice to see your still running the quadrajet, they're a great carb if you have them set right.' They asked me to start her up and she's idling a little choppy, as if there were a big cam but smoothes right out once over 1000 rpms, both looked at each other and said "Your airhorn has a bow in it and its sucking air" They proceeded to tell me how to fix this problem. Mike (the older of the 2 brothers) then asked, "Does your fuel filter drain down after 15 - 30 minutes after you turn her off. I said that it did. He said you fix that airhorn just the way we told you and you'll solve that problem also. So, yesterday I pulled out the Q-jet book, pulled the carb off (which was rebuilt last year) and proceeded to remove the airhorn. The airhorn for inquiring minds is the top section of the carburetor. They told me to use a steel straight edge and with the airhorn upside down, lay the straight edge across the airhorn deck from left side to right side. If there's a gap in the center of the airhorn you need to sand/file the outside edges to get it as close to level as you can. Also using the straight edge from front to back of the airhorn. After some filing and sanding and thoroughly cleaning, I had the airhorn ready for re-assembly. Mike and Johnnie both told me to use some white lithium grease and a small paint brush and very evenly laydown a THIN layer of grease on top of the new gasket. Paying close attention not to allow any globs of grease to fall into any of the openings thru the gasket. I did all these steps very carefully and reassembled. She idles like a different car, I even backed off the idle screw slightly. I then went for a short cruise (10 miles) enjoying the new 4-speed EMENSELY, by the way. And to my surprise this morning the fuel filter is full, I turned the key over and she pops right off. So it looks as tho I've 'killed 2 birds with 1 stone' as the saying goes..... Also, one key point they both made was the way the airhorn should be tightened down. Install all the screws only to a snug position, including the 2 bolts, then starting with the center 2, start tightening down all the way around. Do this 3 times to get everything the same tightness. The main cause for airhorn warpage is that people tend to way over tighten everything, especially the aircleaner wingnut as it is pulling up on the center of the airhorn. Good luck!

If I may, does this info only pertain with a points style distributor?

Noticed in the manual that with the HEI equipped cars, the cable layout on the distributor for position #1 moves from front left for points to front right for HEI. The firing order is the same, of course, I don't think I did that when I converted? Is that necessary since the firing order hasn't changed?

When I rebuilt my frontend suspension, I cut 3/4's of a coil ring off of the coil springs. It lowered the frontend 5/8" measuring at the bottom of the front bumper.These are sb springs........I'm happy with it, doesn't seem to have affected the ride. Here's a photo with my buddy and his convertible but you can sorta see the change in height on the Monte. Front & rear wheel well openings are right at the top of each tire......

Bought a bottle at O'Rielly's for $6 and a piece of aluminum strap ($2) at Home Depot and made my own.........

Finally, installed the last 2 parts to complete this project. Shifter boot ring and the correct speedo driven gear. If you look back at previous posts you'll see the condition of this pot metal boot ring, local plater did a great job. I need to put all my notes and photos together properly for a journal Thanks for all the insight from the club!

Interesting observation about your cam?? I have often wondered the same thing about my SBC350, 1971 original motor. Granted, my motor was rebuilt (.030 over, valve job, etc. but it sure seems as tho there is a different cam with the lope it echos. I have the repair ticket from when the motor was rebuilt prior to my ownership and it doesn't show that the cam was replaced. Possibly the stock equip. just sounds that way..........I like it, but curious on the specs if it is a different cam?

I just installed a set of Spicer solids, part #5-1310X. The driveshaft is original, SBC350, TH350, 12bolt non-posi.

Great info guys, thanks! Looks like a good project for next weekend......

That's probably the issue Sam, guess I'll take it off and reinstall paying closer attention to cleanliness! I used the black RTV, was that correct? Once disassembled I can used a straight edge to check for warpage which I didn't do the 1st time.

I installed a used Edelbrock Performer 2 yrs ago, I cleaned it up and painted it, installed new gasket. It was a noticeable improvement but I've had this annoying minor oil leak back by the distributor. Now with the new bellhousing I installed, I've been able to definitely pinpoint the slight oil leak near the distributor since the bell has a fresh coat of paint. I know I used enough RTV when it was installed so I'm wondering do these intakes warp? Possibly will get a new air-gap style.........

That's for my wife's benefit...........She's on me to quit!