Murphy

No problem. When you mount the trim brackets, just measure out locations for holes to be drilled, look at the mount brackets & you'll understand........I had major repairs to the rear panels also. Good luck!

Hey Bill, I added the wide trim pieces to my 71 and really like the look. I can send pics and instructions when I get home later this evening.....

Tony, you need to attach the cable from the Trans to the speedometer......

The 168's have 3 candle power vs the 194's are 2 candle power. I put in 168's when I rebuilt the gauge cluster, they are slightly brighter, plus I didn't sacrafice the dimming ability like I've heard from the LED's.

What's in the Lighter socket?

Personally, I'm going with a driveline shop, I bought a rebuilt series 3 Eaton posi, and getting 3.42 gears thru the shop. A few hundred for labor and it's done right with a warranty. Going with US Gear ring & pinion set as their the only US made gears and are recommended by several folks I know. When I swapped the auto tyranny for Muncie m20 4speed I had the drive shaft redone so all that's left is my differential rebuild. Good luck!

Hey Brandon, the axle spine count is 30 on your 12 bolt. You need to go to a series 3 different when going to the gears you mentioned. Another key difference is the truck 12bolt vs the car 12bolt. They are different and not interchangeable. You drive shaft is fine, just get it balanced and replace the u joints while your at it. Good luck!

Darren's numbers are correct, found in my assembly manual. Different between SB to bb,Google those numbers for more info....

HI Mike, the carb is out of adjustment, specifically the air valve. Is this an automatic trans? electric choke? Any change when the engine is warmed up?

Bill, I'm pretty sure that the body mounts are the same as the Chevelle from the firewall back. Also, I just measured inside my trunk between the inner fenders at the top of the step and it is 46 inches. Top of the step meaning the stepup from the trunk floor. Hope this helps.........Good Luck!

Joe, if you broke the shift indicator assembly, I have one as I had also replaced my speedo when I converted to a manual trans. I've had my cluster out many times as I also converted the idiot lights to gauges........M

Joe, did you remove the gauge cluster or leave the cluster in place for the clock install? My suggestion is to pull the unit, flexable printed circuit bd is extremely brittle due to age. A ground has definately been broken with your simptoms. I had performed the same repair as you are several years ago and had a similar problem. I then removed the cluster completely to find a ground trace going to the turn signal lamps had torn. The PCB is cheap $60 or so, pull the cluster unit and be CAREFUL............. Murphy

Hi Dave.........nope, his name is Jesse. He has really good CL ads with great photos & info about every part.

Further research verified that this part number was 30 spline only. Bought the unit this afternoon, rebuilt new springs and clutches for $200. came from a 69 Camaro SS. Of course this does not include and ring & pinion. This older guy just rebuilds GM differentials and Muncie transmissions. His garage was packed full of diffs, muncie carcasses and tools everywhere.............He highly recommends US Gear for ring and pinion as their the only company still produced in the US. He was a Yukon dealer but dropped them as they also went oversees and use a lower grade steel as did Motive who also bought Richmond. The guy was a wealth of knowledge.............

Did these series 3 posi units all come with 30 spline? Looking at unit for sale but doesn't mention spline count??

Mike, been there! I beleive I used a distributor clamp wrench, got several from Autozone, 1/2 and 9/16"

Mike, a 1" spacer with cargo springs works great. As mentioned, you will need 8" rims for 275 sized tires plus a 5" backspace is perferred.

Daniel, I was was in your shoes a few years back. I decided to replace the old smelly carpet when WHAM the snowball hit. Remove everything from the floor, I cleaned the metal with a wire wheel brush on a drill and a putty scrapper. I needed a drivers floor pan and a patch under the rear seat. A good friend is an excellant welder so I entised his assitance. Be sure to cut out all the bad rot! Then seam sealed all the seams top & bottom, 2 coats of POR15, thermal barrier from Eastwood and then finally the pad and carpet. It took several weekends but was well worth it! Here are a few photos..........Good Luck!

Mike, you'll find that the 3.31 gears are hard to find & those vendors who produce them charge twice as much as the 3.42 gears. I've been looking for awhile and am probably going with the Yukon setup (posi & gears). I figure I can now go with a larger tire also and still get the performance I'm looking for...good luck!

Thanks Paul for your info, I've been looking at these various systems also but have yet to commit...........

I have an original Assembly manual I found locally on Craigslist for $20...........could pass it up!

It mounts at the back of the heater control assembly down to the lower dash frame. I had my dash out several times when doing my gauge upgrade so I remember that bracket. I found it in my assembly manual also, same part for all 3 yrs.

Why can't I find that block number (041) could that be a 014??

I'm pretty open to all recommendations. I spent a year researching & aqquiring parts for the 4speed conversion and it came out beautifully. My 355 is really solid and instead of messing with it, I've decided to build a BBC. I have lots of parts to choose from here locally so I just need a little insight. Not building a strip car just a killer street car.

Started looking at several big block options (454) which heads would be preferred for a street car? I know of several 402 options which are very promising but the cost of rebuild to my liking....just as well do a 454.