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cbolt last won the day on March 29 2018

cbolt had the most liked content!

About cbolt

  • Rank
    Bronze Member
  • Birthday 04/06/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Palm Coast, Florida
  • Interests
    Old cars, Motorcycles, Music
  • Legal Name
    James Seyboldt
  • Occupation
    Retired US Navy
  1. cbolt

    Eastern meet tracking

    Linda and I will be there, driving. If all goes well it will be the first road trip with the Edelbrock heads. We are all booked at both the event and hotel.
  2. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_wsaQWwzE Made a vid of how to test that fuse. I have never created a youtube video before so be nice. A few notes: My tester is circa early 1990's and the ohm tester is on the fritz. I should have prefaced this with a statement about the first step in troubleshooting a circuit that doesn't function at all is a fuse check. 26 years as an AT taught me that. So what I have presented in the video is the first step in determining what the problem may be by either eliminating the fuse as the culprit or identifying the fuse as the issue. The video only addresses fuse checking, it doesn't address any other portion of the system troubleshooting. However if no voltage is present the issue is likely in the switch or the wiring. I know 40+ year old wiring can be problematic however 9 times out of 10 the switch will be the problem. I wanted to remove the fuse to demonstrate what the test would be if the fuse was bad, however my fuse block is relatively brand new and I don't have a spare glass fuse handy, so instead of risking damage to my current fuse I briefly described the test results if the fuse was blown/removed towards the very end of the video. I am relatively confident that between my quick video and the in depth circuit description provided by Paul anyone should be able to attack a no instrument light problem with confidence. Enjoy!
  3. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    ....aaaand this is why I don't post more. Of course you are right Paul. What was I thinking, advising him to check for voltage? (a test light would work as well, forgot to mention it earlier) Keep us posted as to what fixes the light issue Mike. I wont reply any longer, but I'll be happy to hear when you get it fixed.
  4. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    I think we are talking the same thing. If you don't have voltage at the fuse the issue isn't likely the fuse. I have never had an issue reading an installed glass fuse in the past, either with a volt meter, an ohm meter, a continuity tester,or even my fancy multimeter. LOL I hate pulling a good fuse to check it. Even with a glass fuse puller you risk breaking it, or at least I do.
  5. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    All you have to read is voltage on both sides of the fuse. You can also check continuity with the fuse installed, it will still read open if the fuse is blown.
  6. cbolt

    Steve L, Al M and Jim S

    2007 Linda and I were married
  7. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    you should be able to read across the fuse with a voltmeter
  8. cbolt

    No instrument panel lights

    Something common to all the lights. I would start by looking at either the headlight switch or the connector. I cannot remember if the printed circuit shares a ground point, that could also be worth looking into. I think the common for the lights goes through the connector that plugs into the printed circuit.
  9. cbolt

    Steve L, Al M and Jim S

    Me? For your records Linda and my anniversary is tomorrow. I didn't see it in the newsletter, however I likely never provided that information.
  10. cbolt

    Electrical Nightmare

    Tom, no need to be upset just yet. Let's think about this in small portions rather than a big problem. I assume you made it home in the car okay? Are you only missing the tach, stereo, trunk pop, and ammeter? If that is the case you can tackle one at a time. The stereo issue may simply be a blown fuse. The tach and ammeter may be related, so ask yourself if the tach and ammeter were working up until the car died. The ammeter feeds off the voltage regulator, and if you swapped to a 1 wire it may not work if I am not mistaken. The tach feeds from your distributor and you may very well have neglected to install the feed wire on the new distributor correctly. Retrace your steps there for starters. I am not familiar with the trunk pop system so I cannot steer you in the right direction there. Trust me when I say I love working on cars too, but have had many, many days of frustration while troubleshooting various issues. I don't like venturing behind the dash either, however had done it so many times out of necessity I could write a book. Ugh. My advice to you is step back, take a deep breath, and just think about what you have and decide the best first step. Like Rob said, there is a wealth of knowledge here on the site. All you have to do is ask.
  11. cbolt

    Electrical Nightmare

    My 72 was externally regulated. I swapped to a 1 wire setup a long time ago and have had no issues. Those stupid external regulators fail pretty consistently and always at the wrong time. Those of you who know me know I drive my car often. I cannot have an unreliable externally regulated charging system.
  12. cbolt

    Hood hinges?

    www.hoodhingerepair.com Had mine done here and they are awesome
  13. cbolt


    Tony, I think you will be happy with the 3.55 set up if you can afford it, but also may be happy with the 3.08's for driveability as well. As you may recall I was more interested in gas mileage and traveling at todays interstate speeds, so in hindsight I would recommend the 3.55's if you want to drive the car like I do and think the 3.08's may be better. It isn't a race car to me. For the lock up I tried several different set ups to make it lock without a computer. I tried mechanical, vacuum, and a rig that took a sample from my speedo, to try to avoid having to install a button to lock the trans. I settled on a rig with a control box and dial you can set what speed you want the converter to lock at, which works very well so long as I am not running the air conditioning. Luckily for me the box has a button on it I can select lock up manually. I guess what I am saying is after trying everything to avoid a button, I am happiest with just pushing a button to lock the trans. Something to consider.
  14. cbolt


    My 200 4/r was from California transmission, but they are out of business or so I hear. I recently had a local guy convert it to a lock up configuration with a 2200 stall converter. It took years but I am finally happy with my set up. Are you going to change the rear gears as well? If so, what ratio are you looking at doing? I opted for the 3.73, but looking back would have been much happier with the 3.55's I wanted to get but I let Art Carr the idiot talk me out of them.
  15. cbolt

    US Source Cowl Hood

    I got a stock replacement, no cowl