Its Just Me

Thanks for the info Doug & Bruce, all your points taken. Photos and manuals are very helpful in my understanding how they work. Does the steering column need to come out of the car to run the wires through or can they be fished in while it's in the car? I wish I could just buy the cruise control, but he wants to sell the whole car around it. Still contemplating the whole idea and it may go nowhere but I like doing the homework! If he changes his mind, what is a reasonable price for a complete/unproven cruise control? Scott

Willie: I can't help you with the numbers, but if it's the original radiator and you have a good radiator shop that can re-core it, that's what I would do. Especially if you're trying to retain originality. I've found that aftermarket radiators, even the "original fit" radiators...don't. Scott

My son and I are looking at purchasing a 1972 El Camino that has factory cruise control. The El Camino is fairly rusty and will be driven and not restored. It's his first car and I'm helping pay and get road worthy. As part of our agreement, I get the cruise control to put on my ‘72 Monte Carlo Custom. We have no idea if the cruise works or not. My questions are: 1. How difficult is it to move the cruise from 1 car to the other? The column wiring and turn signal/cruise lever, in particular 2. If it doesn't work, is it fairly easy to make them work, ie: is it worth it? Here is some info that I feel is pertinent: The El Camino is an A-Body just like a Chevelle and Monte Carlo. It has the original 402 big block with the original quadra-jet carb and linkages. Everything under the hood looks virgin and unmolested (Yes, we are considering pulling the 1972 date coded big block out for install in the Monte and putting a small block in the Elco. His first car, remember). The El Camino has a TH-400 transmission with column shift, non-tilt steering column, A/C and we think 2.73 rear gearing. The current owners says the speedometer doesn’t work and he thinks it’s the cable. My Monte is the original 350 small block w/quadra-jet, TH-350 floor shift, tilt steering, A/C and 3.31 rear gearing. I don’t know if this matters, but both cars have the exact same dash with tach and gauges. When I retire in a few years the Monte will be our cross country/traveling car and I really like the idea of having cruise control for those long hauls. And I prefer the factory set-up vs aftermarket even if it isn’t as accurate. Any help/comments/suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Scott

Mike: Your info is correct about needing a different flywheel for the ZZ4. The ZZ4 is externally balanced on the flywheel end of the crank due to the 1 piece rear main seal configuration. GM changed the bolt pattern to make sure us bozo's don't stick the wrong flywheel on and wreck stuff! Be sure your new flywheel has the same ring gear tooth count as you currently have (153 or 168 count) so it will play nicely with your current starter. If you get a used flywheel, get it surfaced before installing it. After you get a new flywheel, you can re-use your current pressure plate (clutch) and disk. They will bolt onto the new flywheel. The question is, what condition is your current clutch in? If you're satisfied that it's up to the task, stick it back in. If there is any concern, replace it. My personal preference is the McLeod diaphram type. Mcleodracing.com. I would call them personally and tell them what you're running and they will recommend a pressure plate and clutch combination that will get it done. Fair pricing and made in the USA! I've run Hayes before with good luck. I think Centerforce hangs their hat on name recognition and charges accordingly, not sure about Ram. One last thing...make sure your crankshaft has a pilot bushing for the manual transmission! Don't skip this step. Let us know how you like the ZZ4 compared to the 383. Scott

Jeff: I talked with Brett today and he will be sending me a good actuator (and a drive belt). Thanks for the help. Scott

Does anyone know where I can get an actuator (I think that's what it's called) for my 4-way power seat in my '72 Custom? It's the gearbox that moves the seat fore and aft, not the tilt. I've been watching e-bay, but so far nothing for my application. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Scott

WOW, I'd never heard of a TCS system. I learned something today. Sounds like I need to use the left head for my new temp guage and I'll leave the right side alone. If my factory guage proves to be accurate, I'll re-install the factory sender and continue to use the factory guage. Bruce, I believe I'm currently using full vac. though I believe I "should" be using ported for emissions reasons. I'm really curious now how an electronic signal controls vacuum between the carb and distributor. I think I've got some research to do now. Thanks all. Scott

Maybe this should be under Electrical? My 72 Monte Carlo Custom, 350/350 has the factory dash guage package. Under the hood I have 2 wires and connection points for the factory water temp guage. One on the left head and one on the right head. The right head has a slip on connection and the left has a stud with a nut. My wiring harness appears to be original and not spliced. Why 2 connections for one guage? Is one for a warning light (that I'm not aware of) and the other for the guage? If so, which is which? Does it take 2 readings for 1 guage and average them? I'm putting a new autometer mechanical temp guage in and IF one is for a warning light, I would like to retain that as an extra precaution. My electrical diagram doesn't help. Any Ideas? Scott

Phil OEM vortec heads will require center bolt valve covers, a vortec specific intake manifold and self aligning rocker arms. If you have air conditioning your upper, rear a/c bracket will not bolt to the vortec intake. Don't get me wrong, I love the vortec heads but there are other considerations. Your cam selection would work well with vortecs, as they like the split duration, and the .443 lift would certainly work without additional work. Even with the tight quench you're after and the efficiency of the vortec heads, I would be a little skeptical at 10.3:1. If you get some bad gas, bad things could happen, especially if you don't have forged pistons. If you're looking for "as much power as you can squeeze out of it" I would seriously look at the Promaxx 2169 aluminum heads at $825/pr (Summit or Jegs). The aluminum will allow for the higher compression, no special intake or rocker arms are required and your valve covers will bolt on. Then I would look at a little more cam. Something in the 1500-5800 rpm range and a 2200-2400 rpm stall converter to tie it all together. Then (maybe even first) you should consider changing to a 3.31 rear ratio. The 2.73's will kill any feel of power you're after and the 3.31 are still a nice cruising gear. The stock 2-bolt main is no problem with the power and rpm you would be looking at. BTW, the Edelbrock RPM intake is a square bore intake and will not accept a spread bore carb without an adapter. The standard Edelbrock Performer (non RPM) is both spread bore and square bore compatible. Any questions? Keep us informed what you do. Curious minds want to know. Scott

Thanks Rock, that looks like the ticket. I'll be ordering soon

The light behind my heater control is pathetically dim. All other gauge lights are fine. I've put a new bulb in to no avail. Can anyone recommend a good LED bulb or any to avoid? Current bulb is a w1445. Thanks Scott

As long as you don't put sticky tires on you will be fine. Drag radials have ruined many a "good" transmissions. Have fun. Scott

The vortec 350 doesn't require different headers than any other small block. The intake is a bit different, but exhaust is the same. I agree with going full length. I've heard good things about Hedman Elite series headers. Good fitment, quality and reasonably priced. But I have no personal experience. I personally have put Dougs ceramic coated headers on my big block Chevelle and I have helped friends put Dougs on a big block 1970 Plymouth 'Cuda and on a 1968 455 Pontiac Firebird. They are a bit pricey compared to most but none of these installs required "performance dents" to get them to fit properly, which is very important if you get ceramic coating. Quality and fitment is top notch. I have Hookers on my small block Monte and would not recommend them. Drivers side hangs too low and the bends are poorly designed. I can't get a plug wrench (or any wrench) on #6 to tighten it properly and I couldn't get a box wrench on several standard header bolts so I couldn't tighten them down. An open end wrench wouldn't seat so the heads rounded. I ended up buying ARP 12 point bolts with the small 5/16" head just so I could get a box wrench on to tighten them. They were on the car when I bought it (of course the header gaskets were leaking) and they won't go back on if I ever take them off. Scott

Thanks guys. I'm normally a horsepower guy and that alone would push me to change the gaskets as Big Daddy suggested. But this is a very mild 350 (kind of a putz as I've been calling it) that won't see any track time. I have headers and 2-1/2" full dual exhaust so I don't think there will be much exhaust flow pushing though the intake, even w/o any restrictors in place. I will let the oil and the minor exhaust flow do its job of heating the intake that Bruce indicates is necessary. If I feel it gets too warm, I can always get a carb insulator suggested by Bob. There, I think I credited everyone! My winter engine project has been fixing some minor internal issues, a lot of oil leaks and throwing a nice coat of paint on. Nearly finished. Project "Putz" is still on track! Scott

Long story short, I failed to install the exhaust restrictor plates in the new intake gaskets going on my 350. The restrictors that came with the gasket set (felpro) have a 1/2" diameter orifice in them. I'm running an aluminum dual plane intake (Weiand 8004) that has the exhaust crossover passage but does not have the choke heat coil provision. I will be using an electric choke. I'm not sure what the purpose of the restrictors is as they do not block the exhaust flow, they just slow it down. Should I be removing the intake for new gaskets and the restrictors or is there no issue to be concerned with? I'd would much rather do that now vs after the engine is back in the car. Any advice appreciated. Thanks Scott