Its Just Me

Thanks Mike, I'll check the original push rod lengths, subtract .400" & compare to the Gen 6 push rods. Yeah, the milage thing may be a bit optimistic, but if you don't reach, you can't grab! I currently average 12.2 mpg & hope that the 0.70 final o/d trans and a lock up converter will push me toward 15 mpg...I'll be quite happy with that. Scott

I can't seem to walk away from this...It still seems like a great upgrade to my street engine for minimal cash. Is that a snowball I see a coming??? UpDate: I purchased the cam, roller lifters, dog bones, lifter valley plate, pushrods and the valve springs, caps and keepers, all from the 502. For $100 I might add. I understand that I can't use the 502 lifters, dog bones or valley plate in my Mark IV. My plan is to purchase some retro lifters, change out the original timing gear/chain set for one that uses the retainer button to eliminate cam walk. I will swap out my valve springs, retainers and keepers for the 502's and buy a set of roller rocker arms. I had previously purchased a set of 781 heads to replace the existing peanut ports, so a teardown was on the agenda already. My question now is...which push rods do I use? I have my original 3/8" Mark IV rods, and I have a set of 3/8" Gen 6 push rods. The Gen 6 (502) push rods are shorter than the Mark IV's. I assume that's because the roller lifters (GM) are taller than the flat tappets of the Mark IV (but I haven't seen them side by side, so I'm making an assumption here). Will the retro rollers be shorter, thereby allowing the original Mark IV pushrods to be used? Or are all roller lifters taller requiring shorter pushrods and now I need to use the Gen 6 (502) pushrods....Or am I way wrong on all accounts? Can someone set me straight? As a bit of history/future/pipe dream...The car is a '71 SS454, it has a set of 1-7/8" headers, 2-1/2" Flowmaster dual exhaust, an edelbrock performer intake, a 750 vacuum secondary carb and HEI ignition (yes, I will change the distributor gear to be compatable with the roller cam). It currently has a set of peanut port heads on it and a cam of unknown spec. I'm guessing that the CR is somewhere around 8.5:1. My winter project consists of this roller cam swap and to install the rebuilt (stock valve size) 781 casting heads. I will confirm my actual compression ratio and target 9.5:1 by milling the 781 heads if necessary. My pal that I got the cam from has a TCI "Street Fighter" 4-speed overdrive 700-4R trans with a lock-up converter that I'm very interested in, and then a gear swap from 3.31 to 3.73's. My goal is to have a great running, strong & very reliable street engine and I'm really hoping to knock down 18-20 mpg. This car is not a daily driver, but we love to take it on long cruises. Hoping to bring it to the Eastern meet next year. Does anyone see any potential problems with this plan or have any comments or suggestions? I'm still in the planning stages, so lets hear them now. Thanks Scott

Thanks for the input guys. Before I got any responses to this thread, I had already decided that the ZZ502 cam would be a better fit in my 454 Monte. I don't "need" a new cam, but I thought if I could get into a roller set-up for around $500 it would be a great upgrade to my engine. Since the gen 6 lifters and dog bones won't work, all I would be buying is a cam (though still quite cheaply). By the time I get new/retro lifters, a retainer plate, rocker arms and push rods, I'm way over my budget (which I really didn't have in the first place). I guess I'll just keep flat tappeting along. Thanks again. Scott

I have a close friend who purchased a ZZ502 crate engine from GM a few years ago. Being who he is, he immediately (0 miles) swapped out the original GM hydraulic roller cam and lifters for a custom grind. He has the GM cam & lifters in a box in his house and will sell them to me for $100. I have a 1969, 4-bolt main 427 from a corvette that needs an update (last rebuilt in 1983 by a teenaged me). I'm hoping to keep the original forged pistons (advertised in 1969 as 11:1 with the cast iron closed chamber, rectangle port heads), install aluminum heads in an effort to lower compression and improve breathing, an Edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake and my 850 DP Holley. My intention is to make this engine more street friendly than its current configuration (and potentially more power & torque within a realistic rpm range). As part of this plan, I would like to update to a roller cam. So the question is...will my buddys Gen 6 GM roller cam and lifters physically fit in my Gen 4 BBC? I would guess that I can't expect a direct drop in, but I have some room to pay for some machineing etc if it's not counter productive. And as a second question, would the original GM cam grind work well with my 427 or should I consider some reworking of the cam profile? Assuming at this point, that I would look for an rpm range of 1500-6500 rpm. I have a Ford toploader 4-speed transmission and a 12-bolt posi w/3.73 gears behind it that I plan to keep in place. The car may see some track time, but mostly a tire roasting street car. And by the way, it's in my '70 Chevelle, but please don't let that bias your answer. I know I left a lot of unknowns out there, and beleive me, they will be addressed at the proper time, but for now I just want to know if its worth pursuing this $100 cam/lifter option. Thanks Scott

This should be a simple question for those in the know. I have a TH400 trans with an adjustable type vacuum modulator. I think is shifts too soon (into second under 10 mph). Can anyone tell me which way to turn the adjustment to get the trans to shift at a higher speed? Clockwise or counterclockwise assuming facing the transmission/modulator with the screwdriver in hand. And how sensitive are they, should I make 1/8th turn adjustments or 1/2? Thanks Scott

I'm going to install an eaton tru-track differential/posi in the SS this weekend... Because this set up uses helical gears vs a clutch pack, I assume I don't need to use the GM Limited Slip gear oil additive. Am I correct in this assumption? Do I need to use any other type of special additive for this differential? Thanks Scott

Dennis: You say your not opposed to changing your heads since you're considering swapping on a dual plane intake anyway...Have you considered aluminum heads? I know they may be price prohibitive, but from everything I have read, you can effectivly reduce compression by 1 point just from the improved heat dissipation. Not to mention you can look for a set with a larger combustion area, further reducing CR. A cheaper option (maybe) is if you're running a closed chamber head now (which was popular back then), maybe look for a set of cast iron open chambers. Open chambers typically have a larger combustion area than closed chambers, and they tend to breath better on the street. A good GM open chamber, iron head to consider would be an 049 or a 781 casting. The 781's are a newer version of the 049. They were produced from 1973-??? and are considered to be one of the best flowing, out of the box GM heads made. And can be made even better with some valve and port work (now they get expensive). I believe the 049's had a 122-126 cc combustion area, which is quite large, and would probably help reduce your compression. By how much would depend on what you have for heads and combustion chamber volume now. Check out "racingjunk.com" there is a set of 781's listed for, I think, $500, and already have the larger valves installed. As others have said, you need to consider the "whole package" though. Changing the heads may reduce compression a bit, but if you change the cam & intake at the same time, you may lose what you gained. Can be a tough game to play. Talk to a reputable machine shop & enjoy the ride. Scott

Score one for the good guys! Joe, you were dead on...I dug around in the mess of wires that was the connection to the aftermarket radio. What I found was, whoever installed the "new" radio, cut the original radio connector off, then proceeded to twist the gray and yellow wire together, and nicely wrapped it in e-tape. I un-wrapped and un-twisted the wire and waa-laa...no more lights with the key switch. After doing the happy dance, I clipped the yellow & gray wires back to the insulation, folded the gray wire back then wrapped them all together with e-tape. Thanks to all who have helped me with this (and other) issues. It may sound old and rehashed, but this is, by far, the best and most generous Club anyone could ever be a part of...I just wish I would have joined sooner. Thanks again! Scott

Toppless72: I was able to work on the monte a bit last night and pulled fuses out of the fuse block until the parking lights went out. The fuse that killed the parking lights was the one in the "radio" slot of the fuse block. So now I know which circuit is affecting the lights, but what is the next step? In an earlier post you made reference to a gray 20g wire and a dial lamp. Could you clarify. Is the gray wire you refer to, on the back side of the fuse block, as I don't see any gray wires on the face of the fuse block? What is a dial lamp? Sorry, I'm not too sharp on electrical issues, but I'm trying to learn. Bruce: I confirmed that I have both the ground wire connections you refer too, and I did replace the headlight switch, (with your previous assistance, thanks again). The switch needed to be replaced because the dimmer motion was shot and some lugs were loose. I was hoping that the switch replacement would solve this issue...wrong. Thanks all Scott

PM sent to gprimm. Can anyone answer my question about swapping the glass & cables into my existing chrome housing, or are they designed to not come apart? Thanks Scott

Guinnea pig update...I tried to install the bump stops yesterday...It looks like I will need to chain the front of the car to the floor somehow before trying to lift the a-arms. I only moved them about an inch before it lifted the front of the car off the jack stands. Yesterday wasn't a very productive day on the Monte...see my power steering post for an additional failure. I think I'll just drink some green beer today and call it a weekend. Scott

Yesterday I installed the pressure reducing kit on my power steering pump. I refilled the pump, started the car and now have no power steering at all. I lifted the front end and cycled the steering a few times back and forth to be sure the pump was primed, but when I lowered it again, no power. The original set up had 1 shim installed (1200 psi), I removed that shim, per instructions, then installed 4 new shims. According to the instructions, I should have about 850 psi. Could my valve be sticking or do I need to remove a shim or two? Power steering doesn't need to be bled to remove the air somehow...does it? Guess I'll be pulling it all apart again. Thanks Scott

Gonzo, that sounds great. I will certainly keep that in mind. Summer is always very busy for me with wife, work, kids and farm, but my wife & I always try do something fun together w/o kids. It's alway easier to escape before kids go back to school. I'll keep my eyes posted for progress reports from Sam. Scott

Thanks jrb, I'll get one with my next summit order. Scott

Joe: I do have an aftermarket radio, but I unhooked it completely and nothing changed. I'll give your suggestion to pull fuses a try when I can get back to my car. Thanks for the help. Scott

My parking lights and my dash lights all turn on when my key is in the run position. The lights are quite dim and they brighten a bit when I rev the engine. I replaced the light switch to no avail (needed to change it for other reasons though). All the lights work as they should with the key off, but I lose the ability to dim my dash (or turn off the parking & dash lights) when the key is turned on. I do not have LED lights. I have good grounds from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the front fender. The car was restored previous to me so I have no idea if a wire is crossed or connected wrong, though based on previous issues, nothing would suprise me. Could it be the key switch? Where should I start looking. Thanks Scott

Is it possible to install new bump stops on the upper front a-arms without popping the ball joints & removing the coil springs? My new bump stops are urethane bolt ins, so I was thinking (or hoping) I could remove the front rims and shocks, then use a floor jack to raise the a-arms high enough to sneak the new ones in, and then run a long extension & socket with the nut thru the coil spring to secure the new stops. I wouldn't attemt this w/o first blocking the a-arms so they couldn't smash my hands while I'm attemting to install the new ones under them. I'm completely missing one bump stop and the other is smashed down pretty good. Has anyone ever done this or am I the guinnea pig? Scott

I just found the thread I was thinking about. Only about 4 pages back. I was searching the archives, that's why I didn't see it earlier. Is my power steering pump "overboosted"? And will a pressure regulator kit solve my problem. Scott

I thought I read about this on an earlier post, but can't seem to find it now. Maybe someone can provide the link. My 71 SS has power steering...sounds great right? The issue is, it seems way to easy to steer, I mean, there is absolutely no resistance at the steering wheel. My personal preference is to have a bit of resistance or "feel" when driving but this seems like my grandmothers buick LeSabre, you know the kind, with the 24" diameter wheel that you need to look thru to see the road . I thought I had heard about a restrictor or pressure regulator that would help bring back the feel factor. As far as I know, the car has all original equipment. I have 3 complete turns lock to lock. Any suggestions or I'm I just too strong for my steering wheel? Thanks Scott

Well Bruce...I hadn't really thought about selling...but I've never been one to limit my options. My wife would be the major decision maker on the fate of this car. You see, I bought a MC for her for her birthday 2 years ago. It was a 350/350 combo, A/C, black on black on black, bench seat, 10 bolt open rear, rally rims, column shift, excellent interior, but it needed significant body work, tho it looked good from 20 ft. She loved having her own "hotrod" as she called it. After pricing body work and paint (WOW!!!), I started looking for a replacement, upgraded "hotrod" for her that didn't need body work. The SS was the fruit of that search. I tried to make it clear that this car would be "ours" but she doesn't quite see it that way. Her only issue is that it's too nice to drive as much as she was accustomed too. She drove her old car everywhere and in all weather except winter. I think she misses that. So "she" may be open to selling if we can replace it with more of a daily driver. I, on the other hand, would require a replacement with a solid body and "good" paint, A/C is a must, and bucket seats and a floor shift. Engine & drive train is open as I have a few options at my disposal. So recapping...not really for sale, but I will certainly keep you in mind if we change our minds. FYI...We are hoping to drive the SS to Michigan if Sam & Co. can put a meet together this summer/fall. Hope to meet a bunch of fellow members. Scott

Montefrazer: Yes, I plan on going to the swap, probably on Friday only though. I usually go with a couple friends who have a swap space every year. That works out good as I don't have to carry all my loot out to the parking area. Scott

Could I get some suggestions as to where to get a "good" left hand, chrome remote mirror for my '71 SS? The one on my car appears to be a repro. I don't think it was ever correctly installed and now the cables are stretched and frayed. Everything is so loose, that the glass shakes terribly just driving down the road. Can I get just the glass and cables or do I need to get the chrome housing and mount also? TIA Scott

Sounds great-though schedule dependent. The kids are back in school then so a bit tougher to get away for a long weekend without them. My wife & I always wanted to take the ferry across Lake Michigan, this sounds like the perfect excuse. Scott