Daryl

First a little bit about myself. I am retired military of almost 22 years of service. In that time I was solely a jet engine mechanic and have literally rebuilt hundreds of jet engines and spent thousands of hours repairing other systems on several different aircraft. In my current position of 16 years as an Industrial mechanic, I work for the largest agricultural equipment producer in the world. Think green. I keep all the CNC, robotics and other manufacturing machines running. I am also a certified welder and novice machinist. I stated all the above just for one reason and that is to let you know I'm not just some average Joe saying something I know nothing about. I looked over the A ams and found the quality to be very good. I purchased mine almost a year ago and when I got them I looked the welds over and was very impressed. I also rockwelled them and compared them to the original steel on my Monte and found the metal to be a stronger material. When I bought mine I did a search and read a lot about some of the problems that were there. Most of that was over 10 years ago. Do I think they actually had a problem back then? yeah. For those that are 40 plus years and older, don't you remember when Japan made a lot of junk? It just took them some time to get their machines and processes in line. Now Japan make some of the most precise equipment in the world. I know my plant is full of them. I think the same thing applies here. I just quickly researched the topic again. I only came across a few guys that ever had any kind of problem and most of the topics were old. Most of it was just hearsay. I must admit though at first I was a little leary when I went to purchased mine. however after I was able to handle them and give them a look over, I was willing to buy. If I even thought for a moment that they would be even remotely unsafe I would have got my money back immediately. I like the set I have and would not hesitate to buy another one.

Mine,I believe, are a global west clones I got at a local speed shop. I think they are the same as the ones that "abad71camaro" sells on ebay for 289$ A arms . The main reason I got them are for the improved steering qualities that come with them. 2nd, I think they look better than the stock ones. 3rd, they are alot stronger than the stamped steel OE ones. I know some people bash the import stuff but I am very impressed with how well these are made and about 40-60% cheaper depending on brand you compare them to. Here are a some pics of mine installed. If you want any close up, just ask. Install was not that bad.

This gear setup you're talking about is it only on the 350? How about the 400 ?

Found one 62$ Ratio adaptor

Some time ago I know I've seen a company that makes a little external gearbox that threads on where your speedometer cable goes on your tail shaft housing. Give them your tire size and gear ratios. I'll see if I can find the link for it.

Someone else recomemnded asking the parts guys to go behind the counter to brouse there selection. I'll give that a try. BTW your engine bay looks GREAT!! Care to share any engine specs?

Mike What is the top radiator hose off of? Or do you have a part number? I ditched my shroud and want a hose like yours with less bends. Your engine bay looks GREAT!!!

Ok, I'll take a chill pill and wait till I get most of the car back together.

Is it a HEI type distubutor? If you got gas at the carb and a HEI my money is on the ignition module. Advance Auto and some of the other parts places have a machine to check them. I've seen several modules go out just like you decsribed.

71monty Are those from a late model monte?

Ok gents, I just installed my TCI 4l80e controller to give it a test run on my freshly rebuilt 4l80e. All gears work except for 2nd. The engine and transmission is currently in the frame and there is no driveshaft hooked up to it nor is the body on the frame. Now from what I've read the 2 most common problems that could be causing this is #1.the sprag is on backwards or #2. there is not a sufficient load to engage the sprag since the drive train is not completely hooked up and under pressure. Has anyone out there encountered this problem with a 4l80e or the th400? I mention the 400 as well as the 4l80e because from what I have read the intermediate drum setup is exactly the same for both transmissions. Can you guys think of anything else I should try before I tear into the transmission? Also do you think I hurt anything if the sprag is on backwards? like I said the trans is not under any load nor has it been since its rebuild.

Here is the set I have [/img]

I gotta tell on myself. I did the same thing but caught it before any real damaged occured or so I thought. When I started to rebuild my Monte, that was the first I had worked on a non computer controled engine for 15 or so years. When I got to the point that I was ready to set the timming on the new motor I could not get a steady light. I figured the light was bad. I doubled checked my connections and all my wires to be sure, yep it was the light. Asked around and finally borrowed one from a friend. Still the same thing. Did some reading and found out MSDs don't like certain lights. This was the first time I ever had an ignition box. Checked again with another timing light and still no go. Light signal was erratic. I checked everything again, nothing! Just when I was ready to drop the money for the the MSD light I came across a chat online with a guy having the same amount of fun as I was setting the timing. One guy chimmed in and asked if he had the inductor facing the right direction as most older lights will only work facing a certain way. Lightbulb came on! Oh yeah, I forgot about that. All that time looking for a problem and I just had the inductor on backwards.

Just searched completed listings on ebay. Last OE set sold for 99$ WOW! I have a set I am willing to part with. PM Me Ebay 6x9 Grill

Here is a Front set off Ebay Viking Coilovers Full Set For the rear Viking rear coilovers

I just went through the same process you're currently are with my 489. Holley's I have learned you gotta start with the basics and work your way from there. The very first thing you need to check to make sure the float levels are set correctly. What size of jets and power valves are you running? Have you pulled your plugs to read them? It sounds like you're starving for fuel.

Here is a formula for sizing a carburator. Easy to remember thats why I use it as a staring point. I would however drop the results down to the next lower carb size for stock to a medium modified engine. Its not an absolute but close for a street engine. I think that 750 was a little big unless your engine lives in the red zone. If you go to Holley's site they have a sizing calculator that may help. Do you own a vaccum gauge? Manifold vaccum can tell you a lot. (cid x 2) - 15% = CFM

I have heard of people doubling up the gaskets, but I've never tried it myself.

After reading a bit I know for sure that I'm going with the Vikings. I could not find one negative comment about their shocks. Every one really liked them a lot. The following vendors I came across highly recommended them; Midwest Chassis Inc, UMI Sales, BMR Suspension and Matt classic bowties. Here are a few of the benefits I read about that were mentioned. 2 Year warranty- most only had 1 year Fit and finish were better than the others ALL their shocks are double adjustable Made in the USA Customer service was outstanding They cost less Completely rebuildable Weighed less than the competition

The rebuildable part is one of the things that is drawing me to them. I think I have pretty much made up my mind on the vikings. Just wanted to see if there were any problems anyone may have had with them.

Maybe I'll do a little research on the subject and post my results here. I think a lot of people will be interested in them only problem is the cost. Shocks and coils are a lot cheaper than coil overs. The main reason I'm looking at them is to control the level of my car. Ride control and looks are secondary issues. I have 2 inch drop spindles,a coil cut off the springs and smaller tires than the original. So it's going to be hard to get a set of springs to match the front. The coilovers will allow me to have full adjustability on the ride level.

I was looking at QA1 and Viking. I think QA1 probably has more of the market share than Viking does but for some reason the Viking ones appeal to me.

What brand do you have? How do they ride? Would you do it again? Add pics please!

What's a good drive shaft cost nowadays? What did you guys go with aluminum, steel, carbon fiber?

Now I need a good drive shaft and then my chassis and drivetrain will be all most done.